You guys were right. There's no egr valve on a tacoma 3.4. Some how I ordered one with a pipe. If I don't have the hole for it in my exhaust (haven't checked). Then I'm bringin it to the salvage yard I bought it from and swapping it out. Dick heads should know better. They also didnt include my fuel vapor pressure sensor with my Evap can so i gotta try an get a free one of those out of them.

 

Well ˟˟˟˟... ?

Remember building the battery harness. Got it fed to my starter and the nut is on. But I forgot there is that plug on it. I believe that needs to be plugged in? I'm re using my 3.0 starter. I can't get it on. Tight getting in there but I don't think it's the right size. Should I cut it and solder my old 3.0 plug?
2nd- the same harness. Got it from my starter/starter trigger wire. Negative or positive battery terminal? Then a ground on it as well? I'm all confused about my negative battery terminal now. >.<

 

This weekend has got to be the weekend I'm over determined at this point. Tomorrow I'm going to the recycler and they're swapping out my upper intake for me. Then it fluids belts k&n intake, turn the key and hope she starts.

 

So excited for you! Hope it all comes together!

 

Thanks. Just building the k&n checking over everything. Putting anti freeze in and giving her a try.

 

Everything's ready to go but my clutch just falls to the floor when I push it down and stays there. I'm trying to bleed it and trouble shoot it now

 

Trying to start it pissing gas out the fuel line I flipped ><. Noooooo!

 

You loosened the banjo bolt to rotate the high pressure line on the fuel rail, did you replace both of the metal bushings (those area one time use part). This of course is assuming you didn't do something as simple as forgetting to re-tighten the banjo bolt.

 

I didn't replace the metal bushing but isn't where it was kickin it out It was on the line to fuel tank. I took it off re threaded it and it worked out good. Starting issues now >.<

 

Here she is. Haven't put the hood back on yet !

 

Trouble shooting time. Damn. Thought she was gonna start. No exhaust yet so 2 o2 sensor plugs hanging but shouldn't screw up my starting. I got power. All the lights work. Windows work, reverse lights work, even 4wd light turns on when I click it on. Try to crank her and she just cranks and cranks. Here's what I'm missing and I'm hoping its the cause. . This is the fitting directly on front of my upper intake manifold. I have nothing there obviously. I looked at my buddy's 3.4l. And he's got it routed down through a small filter then to his drivers side wheel well where there is 2 plugs and about 4 hoses feeding off somewhere. Couldn't find where they routed. Here's his.
Hose feeds down through that blue filter on the right then into that mechanism below it with a few lines going around.
Looks like this- . (this piece is off of my 3.0.). But I have no extra plugs on my 3.4 harness that I'm missing. Any ideas? I saw on a picture of someone else's swap here that he fed that hose somewhere down to the passenger side but I have no idea where. :-/. Almost there

 

Missed this picture. This is my buddies 3.4l. Hose feeds to that blue filter then down to fender well.

 

That port is supposed to be routed through the idle up valve on the power steering hose. The other side of the idle up valve should be routed to a port on the intake between the MAF and the throttle body.

I'm not sure what you're buddy has going on, but that bank of VSVs are for A/C idle-up, AS, FPU, and EGR, and they're not needed with the 3.4...or at least I didn't use any of mine, but if all he has is a filter at the end of that line and it's open to the air, he's got one hell of a vacuum leak and probably getting really bad gas mileage, bad performance, or both.

 

Sorry I'm a little confused.
Wouldn't the idle up air control valve be on the throttle body? Ill have to check around on my p/s lines better but I don't recall seeing a port for that.

 

On my 96/97 4Runner donor the power steering hose has a fitting to attach a pressure valve that opens when the oil pressure gets too high and allows metered air to bypass the throttle body to raise the engine idle. The 3.0 had a similar system except the valve was on the pump body rather than the power steering line.

For me, because I'm in CA and need it to SMOG, I had to make sure that all the vacuum lines were going to the right place for a 97 4Runner (I had mine SMOG-ed as a 97).

It looks like some of the later years replaced that valve with a pressure switch that was tied into the ECU, but on those applications I have no idea how the idle up worked or what was connected to that port. If you don't have anything that needs to be connected to it, I would just cap it and be done.

 

Hmm weird. Ill try to research it tonight. I do have a single wire plug coming off my my engine harness above my a/c compressor. But I didn't plug it in cause there's nothing to plug it to. Maybe that's the new style of it. Ill see what I can find.

 

Shoot I just seen about 4 forums saying without it. your car will stall or sometimes not even start. Damn salvage yards try to screw you out of all the small pieces.

 

That front upper hose is the 4wd ADD vacuum source. Also thats not a small filter, its a one way check valve.

 

So, overlooking that "mystery" vacuum port (just cap it for now and figure it out as you go along), your biggest problem is that the engine cranks but doesn't fire right?

First things first (and I know it sounds stupid and basic but with trouble shooting you need to start at the basics and then move into the more complicated components) make sure that you have +12V everywhere you're supposed to and at the right times (such as always on +12V vs. key set to 'run' vs. key set to 'start') and make sure you have grounds everywhere they're needed (and make sure they're actually grounded to the body/frame, not just grounded to each other). Start at the ECU then start moving to the various sensors.

Smell your exhaust, if you're cranking and it isn't firing there should be a lot (relatively speaking of course) of gas in the exhaust, if you can't smell any there you have a problem with the injector timing. From a previous post its apparent that your COR is working since you had a gas leak between the 3.4 high pressure line and the 88's hard line.

Any chance your ECU has thrown any trouble codes?

And just as a reminder, what application is your ECU and harness from (year, model, options)?

 

Its not crucial to start. If you're not running the ADD system then you just cap it.

Grab some starter fluid and give it a few squirts. If it'll run then more than likely your fuel pump isn't running.(Not saying the pump is bad) COR could not be wired right. Do you have spark? pull a plug on the driver side and see if you get spark. Most time its fuel or spark and most times its a wiring problem.