3.4 swap Vehicle Speed Sensor question
Dec 1, 2012 | 07:39 PM
#41
Since both donor and recipient are electrical. You just need to hack off the transmission section of the harness from the 3.0 engine harness. You can then extend and run that harness into the cab and hook it back up as it was. If your reciepient is mechanical, nothing changes. In both cases you still need to run the SPD signal wire from the cluster to the ecu. The wires for which are both at the body harness plugs.
Dec 3, 2012 | 12:58 PM
#43
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From: Washington
Update:
Back up lights work. That was easy since i found the diagram. next one im gonna work on is the 4wd indicator light. as well as my stero
I dont think i burned up the oil pressure gauge cause i saw it move lol but that may not mean anything anyone know if the 3.0L oil pressure sending unit out of my 93 will work in the 3.4? i think i've read that it does work fine and that you "have" to switch it but i didn't think i had to since they looked the same
took the rig out hunting this weekend and the idle was great at times then other time's it was a little to high etc. etc. whet i push the throttle body closed it tone's down....and there doesnt seem to be tension on the throttle cable.
Back up lights work. That was easy since i found the diagram. next one im gonna work on is the 4wd indicator light. as well as my stero
I dont think i burned up the oil pressure gauge cause i saw it move lol but that may not mean anything anyone know if the 3.0L oil pressure sending unit out of my 93 will work in the 3.4? i think i've read that it does work fine and that you "have" to switch it but i didn't think i had to since they looked the same
took the rig out hunting this weekend and the idle was great at times then other time's it was a little to high etc. etc. whet i push the throttle body closed it tone's down....and there doesnt seem to be tension on the throttle cable.
Dec 4, 2012 | 05:30 AM
#45
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From: Fresno, Ca.
One of swaps that I did needed the IAC to be cleaned out to fix the high idle, It was caked in crap.
Easy to do with the writeups in the Taco section here. Just search that forum. I bought new gaskets but it didnt need them. could have reused the old ones
Easy to do with the writeups in the Taco section here. Just search that forum. I bought new gaskets but it didnt need them. could have reused the old ones
Dec 4, 2012 | 07:57 AM
#46
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From: Washington
it doesn't look like the oil pressure sending unit is very difficult to get to so hopefully it wont be too bad and hopefully the connector that plugs into the top of it is the same as my 3.0L's......I'll look into the IAC clean up, i downloaded the full mechanical manual of the 3.4 when i bought my TIS subscription
so i'll look into the taco forums and see if that helps. thanks a lot for your help guys! i couldn't have figured out this stuff without your yotatechs help!
Dec 4, 2012 | 03:52 PM
#47
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From: Fresno, Ca.
Jun 25, 2014 | 04:43 PM
#48
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From: Broomfield, Colorado
IT WORKS! not as embarrassing but still not proud of the mistake though! i had it wired incorrectly so we're good! however, i have these loose ends to tie up still:
-Reverse lights dont work and i have no idea where to start with that
-Oil pressure gauge isn't working either (the body wire to the ecu has been soldered, and i did not swap out oil sending units because the donor had the exact same one as my 3L)
-4WD indicator lamp isn't working either and i dont know where to solder that into
-Stereo is dead too!!! i assume that its got something to do with one of those issues...
-My idle is too high even after the motor has warmed up. this is an issue i've been having before i fixed the RPM or the VSS so im not sure if that had anything to do with it. I haven't had my truck at normal operating temperature since i've fixed the RPM and the VSS so we'll see tonight. BUT i have pushed my throttle body closed even when its "closed" and it idles down a bit but i have to press pretty dang hard for it to do that. anyway we'll see
ANY HELP with those issues would be great thank you!
so we're good! however, i have these loose ends to tie up still:-Reverse lights dont work and i have no idea where to start with that
-Oil pressure gauge isn't working either (the body wire to the ecu has been soldered, and i did not swap out oil sending units because the donor had the exact same one as my 3L)
-4WD indicator lamp isn't working either and i dont know where to solder that into
-Stereo is dead too!!! i assume that its got something to do with one of those issues...
-My idle is too high even after the motor has warmed up. this is an issue i've been having before i fixed the RPM or the VSS so im not sure if that had anything to do with it. I haven't had my truck at normal operating temperature since i've fixed the RPM and the VSS so we'll see tonight. BUT i have pushed my throttle body closed even when its "closed" and it idles down a bit but i have to press pretty dang hard for it to do that. anyway we'll see
ANY HELP with those issues would be great thank you!
Jun 26, 2014 | 06:07 AM
#49
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From: Washington
I need to know your donor/recipient years/model's and if both have VSS or what. IF the donor is a mechanical speed sensor then you will need to provision wires for it (if you haven't already). To help you properly I need to know what you have done in detail. Thanks. Pictures mean a thousand words
Jun 26, 2014 | 07:23 AM
#50
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From: Broomfield, Colorado
I need to know your donor/recipient years/model's and if both have VSS or what. IF the donor is a mechanical speed sensor then you will need to provision wires for it (if you haven't already). To help you properly I need to know what you have done in detail. Thanks. Pictures mean a thousand words
Jun 26, 2014 | 07:48 AM
#51
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From: Washington
The tach is seperate from the speed sensor
I do not remember the colors/connectors off hand but there may be some helpful information in my 3.4 swap thread listed in my signature. The VSS is further down in the thread but I explain what I did. If that doesn't help I can take a look and see if I can help your situation.
If your donor had a VSS I dont see why you cant just solder up the 3 wires from your recipients VSS to the donors VSS wiring? Obviously you would have to still read both donor and recipient diagrams to see what wire does what for which rig and solder accordingly....
I do not remember the colors/connectors off hand but there may be some helpful information in my 3.4 swap thread listed in my signature. The VSS is further down in the thread but I explain what I did. If that doesn't help I can take a look and see if I can help your situation.
If your donor had a VSS I dont see why you cant just solder up the 3 wires from your recipients VSS to the donors VSS wiring? Obviously you would have to still read both donor and recipient diagrams to see what wire does what for which rig and solder accordingly....
Sep 22, 2014 | 05:12 PM
#52
Just to clarify the issue i was having:
The situation that I had was my cluster/trans and wiring was all electronic VSS (92-94 pickups have the electric VSS in the transfer). My donor was all mechanical speed sensor'd. So rather than swapping out my electric cluster for a cable driven cluster, running a cable from the cluster to the trans then having to buy a adapter thing for the sensor part in the transfer, i kept it all electronic VSS if that makes sense. I did not need to do the mechanical swap and for anyone else in this same situation it wouldn't make sense to do a mechanical swap. i would be happy to do a write up of what you need to do to get your electric VSS working if you have a mechanical sensor donor if that's what your asking. I'd be happy to help in any way i can, this forum has helped me SO much and i'd be glad to help anyone with this similar issue
The situation that I had was my cluster/trans and wiring was all electronic VSS (92-94 pickups have the electric VSS in the transfer). My donor was all mechanical speed sensor'd. So rather than swapping out my electric cluster for a cable driven cluster, running a cable from the cluster to the trans then having to buy a adapter thing for the sensor part in the transfer, i kept it all electronic VSS if that makes sense. I did not need to do the mechanical swap and for anyone else in this same situation it wouldn't make sense to do a mechanical swap. i would be happy to do a write up of what you need to do to get your electric VSS working if you have a mechanical sensor donor if that's what your asking. I'd be happy to help in any way i can, this forum has helped me SO much and i'd be glad to help anyone with this similar issue
so I have read this thread 3 or 4 times ...
you didn't actually say how you "fixed" this ? I'm in need please
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