vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Your picture shows a cable driven combo meter. Its not helpful to you in your situation. I sent you my email address. How much you want for that combo meter?

Austin Marr

bahahahaha! not sure yet, you need one? e-mailed you the ewd's.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

The problem is not his VSS in the transmission. Its that he hooked it up incorrectly, or is missing something somewhere in the translation.

The Cable to Electric "converter" that Marlin sells is not necessary in this situation since he already has a digital VSS. Marlin DOES sell a "Mechanical-to-Digital VSS converter" for $49 (http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfe...eed-sensor-mci) but again, not necessary in his case.

He just needs to figure out how to make the VSS talk to the Speedometer at this point.

It was a little confusing when he texted me as well, but I got the idea of what he wanted to do. I just don't know the wiring that well.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Yeah Cougar, I finally came to the same conclusion. I got his EWDs from him but he didn't get the transmission EWD so he's working on getting that. Should be a simple matter of wiring once he gets it.

Austin Marr

I didnt know that i needed the transmission EWD's. i didn't think there was even one for it. what are you looking to find on the transmission EWD's? also if you have a sample pic of what the diagram is called i can look in my computer and see if i have it but the only other EWD i have that has anything to do with the trans is the "4WD M/T" diagram. If i have to i'll pay another 15 bucks for TIS to get the diagram i will...

Also, just to clarify for anyone who may still be confuse lol, i cut the VSS female end of the connector off of my transmission harness from my 3L and soldered a 10 foot pigtail to make it long enough to route into the cab. i did not have the proper wire color so i just use what i had which was one black and two red wires. i labeled both ends of the wire's so i know which wire is what once its in the cab and ready to solder. Tonight i am going to verify that i labeled the wire's correctly to make sure i didn't mess up the labeling because it seems as though i should not be having any issues with it not working because i've done everything you guys have suggested other then verifying i labeled the wire's correctly. This is going to be so embarassing if i labeled them wrong!!!! haha

On another note, i did the tach mod last night so the tach works now!

CANT THANK YOU GUYS ENOUGH FOR YOUR EFFORTS TO HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT!!!

Austin Marr

[QUOTE=It was a little confusing when he texted me as well, but I got the idea of what he wanted to do. I just don't know the wiring that well.[/QUOTE]

I sent vital22re my diagrams upon his request and he's looking at them as well so we'll see.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

You need to look at the wires coming off the electronic vss in the transfer case and match them up to the back of the cluster. You might be able to trace them to wires in the body harness or you might have to run some new wires.

I see your edit now. Sounds like you are really close. Probably just mis labeled one or got it in the wrong position.

That 4x4 M/T is the one I need I think. Email it?

Austin Marr

Ya i'll e-mail it to you tonight. Off memory, all i remember that diagram having is my 4wd indicator sw, integration relay, ADD sw (n/a to my situation) and somethin else. also, as far as tracing the wire's from my cluster to the kick panel body harness, would i put a toner on the wire or whats another way to find the wire?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

The wires off the transfer case vss will enter a connector somewhere. Your EWD will say which connector and locations.

Austin Marr

Yes, my "C2" body harness connectors are where those wire's should/would have gone. and i've got them there. Dont mean to confuse you lol. I just need to verify i've labeled them correctly. do you have a electric VSS or mech.?

Austin Marr

IT WORKS! not as embarrassing but still not proud of the mistake though! i had it wired incorrectly so we're good! however, i have these loose ends to tie up still:

-Reverse lights dont work and i have no idea where to start with that
-Oil pressure gauge isn't working either (the body wire to the ecu has been soldered, and i did not swap out oil sending units because the donor had the exact same one as my 3L)
-4WD indicator lamp isn't working either and i dont know where to solder that into
-Stereo is dead too!!! i assume that its got something to do with one of those issues...
-My idle is too high even after the motor has warmed up. this is an issue i've been having before i fixed the RPM or the VSS so im not sure if that had anything to do with it. I haven't had my truck at normal operating temperature since i've fixed the RPM and the VSS so we'll see tonight. BUT i have pushed my throttle body closed even when its "closed" and it idles down a bit but i have to press pretty dang hard for it to do that. anyway we'll see

ANY HELP with those issues would be great thank you!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

sent email on reverse. I hope you didn't kill your oil pressure gauge. Even if the switch looks the same, it is different. You can get one for a 95 3.0 motor and it will plug in to the 3.4 engine harness.
Make sure the throttle cable has slack in it. If not you need to bend the bracket that holds it.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Austin I have another 3.0 oil pressure gauge (that you need) or two laying around. I bought a few before I ended up replacing the gauge itself. PM me if you need one. At some point I believe you have to get power to the integration relay for the backup lights to work. Backup lights are very simple to wire up when looking at the EWD. You may not have downloaded enough stuff when you paid your $15. Always download EVERYTHING you can for both vehicles because you never know.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I ran a hack saw down the middle of the bracket to be able to bend the throttle bracket forward enough to have slack. Check out my build thread if you need to see an example.

Austin Marr

Got the e-mail. thanks man. I think i may have killed it :/ because when i first cranked over the gauge shot to past "H" then once i gave throttle it dropped past "L" then as soon as i let off it shot back up to "H". now i've got nothin. and i still have my 3.0 from my rig so if the oil sending unit will work with the 3.4 i can just swap em out right????

Did you bend the bracket up? my bracket that holds the throttle cable was hitting the hood so i bent it down and even before i did that the idle was still high though. then last night while the engine was at normal operating temp i pushed on the throttle body to see if it would close more but it wouldn't but it would make the idle drop then it proceeded to work fine after that. strange. it's not that big of a deal. im more worried about the wiring discrepancies. it sucks because im running 33x13.50's on a stock rig with no lift and when i pounded the fender's in to make them fit with flex in made the kick panel much smaller so i cant really fit the 5vz ECU in properly :/

HOW DO I GET YOTATECH STICKERS!!???

Austin Marr

Checked out your swap thread. what page is the bracket modification on???? didn't see it. maybe i missed it?

Replicant

I have been driving my 3.4 swap for a year now and still havent figured out the speedo wiring, I gave up. lol good job on yours.

Austin Marr

What did your donor have? mechanical or electric?

what did your recipient have? mechanical or electric?

dntsdad

I admit my eyes are caked with sleep still but was there a soultion to this posted. Austin, I know that you got it working but what exactly did you do as far as the wiring is concerned.

I have not done a mechanical speedo swap but I would be curious to see what needs to be done and it would be a good addition the the forum

Austin Marr

Just to clarify the issue i was having:

The situation that I had was my cluster/trans and wiring was all electronic VSS (92-94 pickups have the electric VSS in the transfer). My donor was all mechanical speed sensor'd. So rather than swapping out my electric cluster for a cable driven cluster, running a cable from the cluster to the trans then having to buy a adapter thing for the sensor part in the transfer, i kept it all electronic VSS if that makes sense. I did not need to do the mechanical swap and for anyone else in this same situation it wouldn't make sense to do a mechanical swap. i would be happy to do a write up of what you need to do to get your electric VSS working if you have a mechanical sensor donor if that's what your asking. I'd be happy to help in any way i can, this forum has helped me SO much and i'd be glad to help anyone with this similar issue