Elvota

That shifter boot is a good find.

Your attention to details on this build should really help others following in your foot steps.

mt_goat

It was a lucky find because 2 of the workers at Pepboys told me they didn't have any rubber shift boots (one was a manager) but I couldn't believe it so I looked anyway and found 2 different sizes in their hotrod section. It was only $12. O'Reillys could order one from Hurst for $20. I'll probably end up hiding it anyway, I just needed something to seal up the hole below the console.

I've been trying to focus a lot of attention on the auto tranny parts of this swap because there isn't much info out there on the auto, most guys doing this swap have 5 speeds. Ironic because the 3.0 auto is the biggest dog of the two. Without the power and proper gearing the 3.0 auto is basicly a 3 speed truck.

hause64oz

mt goat - considering the swap in my 95 5 spd... are the ORS instructions pretty thorough? from this thread it sounds pretty intense, but Im wondering if just the engine swap is more standard than a lot of the additional mods you are making... where else can I find information on this swap - ie other forums? Thanks.

mt_goat

The ORS instructions are very good and are even better now than when I started because Mike has added more pics and tips and also clarified some things.

Through this whole thread I have purposely not repeated any of Mike's instructions as ORS does not authorize the sharing of them. I have instead tried to focused on things not covered by the ORS instructions and the extra goodies I'm installing that are not part of the basic swap, and as mentioned earlier the auto tranny part of the swap. I wish I had put auto transmission in the title of this thread now, maybe I can still add it. Nope it didn't let me, Mods could you help me with that?

The swap with a manual tranny is easier and is covered a lot on forums like here. Also try over at 4x4wire: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postli...t=&Board=UBB11
And of course ORS: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/tech...ersion_kit.htm
Also some good info on Pirate but they don't have free search anymore so use Google advanced search features to search for them by adding Pirate to your search words: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12

Mike and the ORS staff have been very helpful to me and I never could have done this swap without them. They provide a great product and stand behind it with customer support. It's a good thing my cell phone has a free long distance plan, because I can't count the number of calls I've made for help. They may not always answer the phone but they do return calls and are very helpful.

mastacox

My guess, with the entire package (water injection, URD kit, 2.2" pulley) he'll be pushing 360 hp at the crank. Basically, all the added stuff will tack on about 175hp, he will have effectively doubled the output of the 3.4!!! My guess, he might even be able to go with bigger injectors and a 2.1" pulley later on, since the WI will keep the EGT's down, going up to perhaps 380-400 hp

mt_goat

Actually Brian, I installed the 2.1 pulley already (because of trips to high elevations) and the URD kit includes bigger fuel injecters (318cc). My hope was to double the HP of the 3.slow lol.

mastacox

All I have to say is... EGADS

One way or another, I'd say 360-375hp would be a safe estimate... you're going to double the output of the 3.4l, not just the 3.0l!

When I said bigger injectors I meant bigger than the 318cc that come in the URD kit BTW... perhaps 370cc?

My hope is actually to TRIPLE the output of my 3.0 with my new 4Runner, since with the altitude losses my little 3.0 is only putting out about 105-110 hp at 7500 ft I'll be more than happy with about 330hp, it's hard to make an auto tranny that keeps up (ask midiwall), know what I mean?

mt_goat

I'll be installing my IPT upgraded valve body soon to help with that, it is done just not installed yet.

Oh did I mention I'm hoping to get better gas mileage too?

mastacox

LOL yeah, that will be nice... I'm hoping for about 23 HWY, but it turns out my '92 doesn't do that bad at altitude in terms of mileage, about 18 city/20 hwy. In Tucson it did horribly though, about 14 city/17 hwy

mt_goat

Oh ok, yeah since my main goal was to have enough power at higher elevations the boost is more important than the fuel. I'm petty sure I'll have more than enough power for my needs at low elevations the way it is with the 318cc injectors. Keep in mine I'll be geared with 5.29 gearing and 33" tires, so the torque will be border line dangerious for CV life, especially in low-low range. A light right foot (and spare CV with quick change mod) will be mandatory on the trails.

mastacox

LOL I'd do a calculation to figure out what the torque going to your CV's with torque multiplication factors added in, but you wouldn't like it

mt_goat

Yeah I heard in low-low range the brakes can't even stop the truck at idle. You have to slip it up into neutral to stop. But it is a very slow motion progress. I've seen a pic of Roger Brown leaning against his front bumper while it was idling down the beach. I'll see if I can find that pic.

mastacox

Ok fine I couldn't help myself...

I looked up some numbers, made some asusmptions about your stock gear ratios and transmission ratios here's what I got:

Stock Crawl Ratio: 44.8:1
New Crawl Ratio: 334.3 (assuming dual 4:1 t-cases, correct?)

Torque at one corner, assuming all equally split with stock engine and setup: 1794 ft-lbs
Torque at one corner, assuming all equally split with new setup (including engine's increased output, increased tire diamteter, etc.): 31140 ft-lbs

That's a 1636% increase from stock torque Sounds like even your rear axle could be in danger at those levels, or your driveshafts...

Might want to carry two space CV's

mastacox

I like your quote back in march, it was a bit of an underestimate I think...

Flygtenstein

Numerically, without a TC correction and 5.29's you are talking about 160:1 if I remember right. Factor a casual doubling at lock up and it goes slow.

My truck in double low (3.4 swap, auto, 5.29's, one stock case and one 4.7 case) will not go any faster or slower with brakes or gas. In just 4.7 low it drives itself too.

I killed steering more often than joints.

Done yet?

mastacox

With a single 2.28:1 case and a 4:1 case, the crawl ratio would be 190:1, overall torque increase would be 1071%

One thing is I wasn't sure on is the first gear ratio... From what I could find a 2001 Tacoma with a 3.4l/auto has a 3.95:1 first gear, compared to a 1993 4Runner's auto first gear being 3.64:1, so this has some factor in the crawl ratio difference too (unless I am mistaken on the transmission being used). I didn't bother with TC calcs.

mt_goat

That's pretty funny, guess that leaves the legs with nothing to do, lol

I just test fit the tranny and marked where the crawler was hitting the floor board so I can cut a hole for the 2nd TC shifter. Looks like I'm going to have to dog leg both shifters about an inch forward to come up in the right spot. Did you have to do that Adrian?

mt_goat

Brian, I was thinking RWHP when I said that but without headers and losing a cat that's probably not going to happen.

Flygtenstein

I have 2k 4Runner drivetrain, well engine and tranny.

My shifters are pretty straight Dale. Little flared at the top to give clearance.

Using those numbers, a 2.28 case, a 4.7 case and 5.29 diff gears sounds too deep.

I thought an auto had like a high 2 or low 3 to 1 ration.

Just the diff, 4.7 case and 2.28 case give about 57. Multiply that by first gear.

In the real world, it is really slow. I grab neutral to stop if it is really sketch and only use double low if I need to back slowly out of bad stuff. It is too low to gas and get away in double low.

mastacox

Yup you're right, looks like its 2.804:1