3.4 swap started
#362
Trying the stock fan might not be a bad idea (if you have a shroud that will work with it) but don't bother cutting your grill, it's the TJM that's doing most of the blocking IMO.
#364
Well, 193 isn't SUPER hot, but the worry is can your cooling system keep up under a medium to heavy load... I'll let you know what my temps turn out to be.
Trying the stock fan might not be a bad idea (if you have a shroud that will work with it) but don't bother cutting your grill, it's the TJM that's doing most of the blocking IMO.
Trying the stock fan might not be a bad idea (if you have a shroud that will work with it) but don't bother cutting your grill, it's the TJM that's doing most of the blocking IMO.
About half of the radiator is behind the bumper and half is above it. The half that is above it is mostly just blocked by the plastic grill. I don't really like that chrome colored plastic crap anyway.
#365
If you had a truck, I'd almost tell you to consider a remote radiator right about now
But, remote radiators don't really work on 4Runners...
#366
193 isnt too hot, but your fan running at fwy speeds still isnt right. Yes it fixed the problem, but I see it as a bandaid.
I would like to see the results of a test drive on the fwy with no fan/shroud.. but could be a dangerous test, thou I think you would be fine...
Instead of cutting off the bottom you could drill some 1-2" airflow holes... The more I think about it the more I think Brian is right... the shroud is creating an air dam... If you had the stock fan it would still slowly spin with the engine rpm drawing air thru.
For reference my dad has elec fans on his 454 suburban. Towing on flat ground the fans are off, only when he hits big hill do the fans kick on. His fan used to work more, but had a clogged radiator. New radiator and his fans rarely work around town, never on the fwy. Granted its a HUGE radiator, its also a HUGE motor and HEAVY rig.
I would like to see the results of a test drive on the fwy with no fan/shroud.. but could be a dangerous test, thou I think you would be fine...
Instead of cutting off the bottom you could drill some 1-2" airflow holes... The more I think about it the more I think Brian is right... the shroud is creating an air dam... If you had the stock fan it would still slowly spin with the engine rpm drawing air thru.
For reference my dad has elec fans on his 454 suburban. Towing on flat ground the fans are off, only when he hits big hill do the fans kick on. His fan used to work more, but had a clogged radiator. New radiator and his fans rarely work around town, never on the fwy. Granted its a HUGE radiator, its also a HUGE motor and HEAVY rig.
#367
I don't really think his shroud is creating the problem, I think the TJM is blocking too much of the radiator, and at highway speeds the fan is forced to turn on in order to get enough air to pass thru the radiator.
#368
Its a truck, and then the fan would have to run ALL the time.. which it does now.. so why move it
Last edited by AH64ID; Oct 24, 2006 at 03:46 PM.
#369
if the electric fan isn't cutting it, then the stock fan won't touch it.
i'd look closely at the radiator fins and bleed the air out of the system first. second, look at the shroud and make sure that you can get enough air through it at forced induction on the highway.
i'd look closely at the radiator fins and bleed the air out of the system first. second, look at the shroud and make sure that you can get enough air through it at forced induction on the highway.
#370
Andy are you saying the stock fan would be worse?
The radiator is new so the fins are perfect, the AC condensor however has 13 years of bug hits. I've picked it as clean as I could with tweezers and hosed it out.
Yeah maybe I didn't bleed it good enough. I hear if you elevate the front end that helps get the air out but I've never done it that way.
Brian yeah I have a pickup but it has a cap over the bed, so it may as well be a 4runner with respect to air flow in the bed area.
Thanks guys, keep the ideas coming.
The radiator is new so the fins are perfect, the AC condensor however has 13 years of bug hits. I've picked it as clean as I could with tweezers and hosed it out.
Yeah maybe I didn't bleed it good enough. I hear if you elevate the front end that helps get the air out but I've never done it that way.
Brian yeah I have a pickup but it has a cap over the bed, so it may as well be a 4runner with respect to air flow in the bed area.
Thanks guys, keep the ideas coming.
#371
i think the stock fan would be worse.
right now, i'm thinking that you have air in the system. park it on an incline and see if you can bleed the air out and then top off the coolant system. that thing should be cooling it very well and not having any issues.
right now, i'm thinking that you have air in the system. park it on an incline and see if you can bleed the air out and then top off the coolant system. that thing should be cooling it very well and not having any issues.
#372
Arent there many other rigs out there with TJM and ARB bumpers, without heat issues on S/C 3.4 motors? I dont know about the TJM personally but my ARB doesnt block all that much flow. It even has cutouts and deflecters. It was hard to tell from his photo, but it looks to be similar.
Last edited by mt_goat; Feb 2, 2008 at 02:53 PM.
#373
Ok I'll try that, I really hope that's all it is.
#375
Dale, just a crazy idea, I dont think you have the room in the front, but check out the design of a Subaru WRX STi's radiator and intercooler. I think stock the intercooler sits on top of the motor, but all of the tuner guys that run it, run these huge front mount intercoolers, so that they no longer have room for the rad's. They mount the radiators and even the intercoolers at an angle in the front, a V is how they do it most often, but since you don't have an intercooler on that thing...if you were to angle the radiator, could you get it a lttle higher, clear some more of it above the TJM? Could probably get a little more airflow that way, but I know your running low on spare room in the front end...so just an idea... let me know.
~Chris
~Chris
#376
I think your shroud is hurting overall flow at speed- try putting some rubber flaps along the edges, kinda like an air check-valve. My 68 Firebird uses one of these SPAL dual 11" fans, and doesn't have any problems:
note the series of six flappers (3ea fan) along the top and bottom. You can get the flaps seperately from Spal, as a buddy uses them on his shroud kits.
note the series of six flappers (3ea fan) along the top and bottom. You can get the flaps seperately from Spal, as a buddy uses them on his shroud kits.
#377
I think your shroud is hurting overall flow at speed- try putting some rubber flaps along the edges, kinda like an air check-valve. My 68 Firebird uses one of these SPAL dual 11" fans, and doesn't have any problems:
note the series of six flappers (3ea fan) along the top and bottom. You can get the flaps seperately from Spal, as a buddy uses them on his shroud kits.
note the series of six flappers (3ea fan) along the top and bottom. You can get the flaps seperately from Spal, as a buddy uses them on his shroud kits.
#378
The TJM looks to block maybe a little more air than the ARB. Were those photos before the 1" BL or did you make a custom bracket? Maybe add some louvers on the sides of the winch.
I like what 8993 showed you... could be easy to adapt to your current setup.
Let us know if you get any more fluid in after "burping" it, thou I still dont think its that since it takes less power at highway speed than it does in stop and go, even on 33's.
I like what 8993 showed you... could be easy to adapt to your current setup.
Let us know if you get any more fluid in after "burping" it, thou I still dont think its that since it takes less power at highway speed than it does in stop and go, even on 33's.
#379
#380
I found some blue prints:
http://www.slickcar.com/pdfs/11Fans.pdf
Last edited by mt_goat; Oct 25, 2006 at 05:16 AM.


