3.4 swap question
#41
I noticed no difference in front end height after the swap. After pulling the insulation, I could close the hood with no body lift or cut out. I probably could have left it alone, but chose to cut the hole in the hood, anyhow.
#42
crossover pipe, will i have any flow problems?
i got my engine in and started on the crossover pipe, the collector end was hacked with a torch so i fabbed up my own, do you guys think i will have any problems with this concerning flow or backpressure? i basicly just cut the two pipes in half on the corners and stuffed them in a 2.5 collector, i have it all tacked and ready to weld, i was just wondering about flow, i just dont see paying $400 for a ors crossover. should i wrap this crossover with header wrap or leave it bare?
#45
Who says you can't?
I had Downey headers on my 3.0 before the swap and I also had a 1" body lift. I don't have the body lift anymore but still have Downey headers on the 3.4.
By the way, I think your crossover looks like it should work. You kept the flex joint which is important. Assuming you welds are sound... I'd run it.
Of course, if it fails you are gonna have a heck of a time replacing it once the engine is in place.
I had Downey headers on my 3.0 before the swap and I also had a 1" body lift. I don't have the body lift anymore but still have Downey headers on the 3.4.
By the way, I think your crossover looks like it should work. You kept the flex joint which is important. Assuming you welds are sound... I'd run it.
Of course, if it fails you are gonna have a heck of a time replacing it once the engine is in place.
#46
#47
well its been a little while but i got my engine installed and starting to button things together now. does anyone know the difference in the tps sensors mine is a 4 wire but i think the computer and plugs i have is for a three wire tps, also how didi you guys hook up your heater hoses, did you use a store bought factory type hose or a custom fabbed one. i will post some pics of my progress soon.
#48
#49
#50
From everything that I've read, all the 5VZFE engines come with the pilot hole on the crank. There was even a Toyota Master Technician who posted that it's there. He said that it would be stupid for Toyota to machine two different styles of crankshaft, which sounds true.
#51
yes you can use an auto engine for a swap, i am using one myself, the tricky part is finding a ecm from a manual engine and the plugs for the ecm. i used the 3.0 pilot bering in the 3.4 crank and had no problems, i also used the 3.0 flywheel and clutch assy, i just had to shorten the flywheel bolts about an 1/8" so they wouldnt bottom out behind the crank.
#53
i got most of the mechanical stuff done but i am having some problems with the wiring, i have an auto harness and have swapped over the plugs to manual ecm and have about 4 wires unhooked, i am not worried to much about that because it was an auto harness, and my engine doesnt have egr. my problem however is figuring out the splicing of the engine harness to the body harness, i have tried to find the plug info on the diagrams but must be overlooking them. i think they are ih1 and ih2 but am not completely sure, can anybody confirm this or give me any tips to help splicing of the harness together. i had planned on using the original body harness plugs ( the female ends white and grey ones)and splicing the engine harness to them. please help me out if you guys can or guide me in the right direction, i have downloaded every diagram from tis that i could possibly need.
#54
also my engine didnt come with an igniter, what can i use an igniter from? it is a 96 t100 3.4, didnt know if i could us e from another car or if it had to be a t100, 4runner, or tacoma. how about any part #,s?
#55
Here is what I did, from Page 10 on my 3.4 swap thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...5/index10.html
You'll see how I handled the starter wire. There is a good chance our vehicles have different names for the plugs and colors on the wires... but should give you a pretty good idea as to what you need to do.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...5/index10.html
You'll see how I handled the starter wire. There is a good chance our vehicles have different names for the plugs and colors on the wires... but should give you a pretty good idea as to what you need to do.
All right, the wiring.
Of course, all swaps will be a little different... but this is my swap, so take what you can from it and run.
Basically, the 3.4 ECM and the 3.4 motor work as a team. They don't care in what vehicle they are mounted. Just give them air, fuel, coolant... and you'll have a very happy couple.
Then your vehicle needs to be told some information so you can see what's going on through your various gauges. Of course, that step could even be skipped. The 3.4 doesn't care if you know what's going on after all.
One thing the ECM also needs is power. That is provided from the original 3.0 body harness. How it gets this power is important, as other related '90 components need to be told what to do as well
These are the wires I hooked up:
IG2 from the '90 to the IG2 circuit wires from the 3.4 harness.
Engine coolant sensor from the 3.4 harness to the '90 wire from the temp gauge.
Oil pressure sender from the 3.4 harness to the '90 wire for the pressure gauge. (note, '90 pressure sender is used on the 3.4)
Indicator lamp pin from 3.4 ECM connected to the '90 gauge indicator lamp wire.
Stop light switch from the '90 to the 3.4 ECM stop light pin.
Speed sensor from the '90 gauge to the 3.4 ECM.
3.4 ECM circuit start relay pin to the circuit start relay on the '90.
3.4 EFI relay pin to the EFI relay on the '90.
And that's almost it.
I ran a new wire from the STA pin on the 3.4 ECM to the starter itself. That particular wire got lost in the '90 harness for me.
I haven't done the AC yet, but have pulled the wires from the AC amplifier and related from the '90 as well as the 3.4 ECM so I can connect them when I figure that out.
I still need to do the 10ohm tach mod so the '90 tach can handle the 3.4 signal, but that wire is marked from the 3.4 ignitor and just needs to be connected.
There is one pin from the 3.4 ECM that is for the OBDII port. 4 wires in total need to go to the port. Second is a ground from the DS intake, third is a standard body ground and the last is a 12v power supply with a 7.5a fuse. I still need the port, but have all the wires to plug into it when I get one. And as I have learned, any vehicle post '96 will have one that I can use.
I left the 4WD, cruise control and ADD pins disconnected from the 3.4 ECM as I did not need them.
You'll probably find as I did that many of the systems between the 3.4 equipped vehicles and the 3.0 equipped vehicles are very similiar. Of course, the newer the 3.4 you get the farther the two systems will be apart. If you have the Toyota factory EWD from both your donor vehicle and current vehicle most of the pieces are fairly easy to figure out. Patience and accuracy is the key.
You may also find that 95% of the 3.4 ECM to the '90 connections are located in one plug, plug D. Also, 95% of the connections you'll need from the '90 are right there in the PS kick panel by the original ECM. Plug IH1 and IH2 had almost all I needed to connect to.
If I did a swap again and found a donor with a uncut harness I'd have been miles ahead. Adding a supercharger or an automatic into the equation would surely complicate things, but I'd imagine still something that could be handled.
Mind you, I am just fine sticking with the complexity of the 5spd swap... that was hard enough.
Of course, all swaps will be a little different... but this is my swap, so take what you can from it and run.
Basically, the 3.4 ECM and the 3.4 motor work as a team. They don't care in what vehicle they are mounted. Just give them air, fuel, coolant... and you'll have a very happy couple.
Then your vehicle needs to be told some information so you can see what's going on through your various gauges. Of course, that step could even be skipped. The 3.4 doesn't care if you know what's going on after all.
One thing the ECM also needs is power. That is provided from the original 3.0 body harness. How it gets this power is important, as other related '90 components need to be told what to do as well
These are the wires I hooked up:
IG2 from the '90 to the IG2 circuit wires from the 3.4 harness.
Engine coolant sensor from the 3.4 harness to the '90 wire from the temp gauge.
Oil pressure sender from the 3.4 harness to the '90 wire for the pressure gauge. (note, '90 pressure sender is used on the 3.4)
Indicator lamp pin from 3.4 ECM connected to the '90 gauge indicator lamp wire.
Stop light switch from the '90 to the 3.4 ECM stop light pin.
Speed sensor from the '90 gauge to the 3.4 ECM.
3.4 ECM circuit start relay pin to the circuit start relay on the '90.
3.4 EFI relay pin to the EFI relay on the '90.
And that's almost it.
I ran a new wire from the STA pin on the 3.4 ECM to the starter itself. That particular wire got lost in the '90 harness for me.
I haven't done the AC yet, but have pulled the wires from the AC amplifier and related from the '90 as well as the 3.4 ECM so I can connect them when I figure that out.
I still need to do the 10ohm tach mod so the '90 tach can handle the 3.4 signal, but that wire is marked from the 3.4 ignitor and just needs to be connected.
There is one pin from the 3.4 ECM that is for the OBDII port. 4 wires in total need to go to the port. Second is a ground from the DS intake, third is a standard body ground and the last is a 12v power supply with a 7.5a fuse. I still need the port, but have all the wires to plug into it when I get one. And as I have learned, any vehicle post '96 will have one that I can use.
I left the 4WD, cruise control and ADD pins disconnected from the 3.4 ECM as I did not need them.
You'll probably find as I did that many of the systems between the 3.4 equipped vehicles and the 3.0 equipped vehicles are very similiar. Of course, the newer the 3.4 you get the farther the two systems will be apart. If you have the Toyota factory EWD from both your donor vehicle and current vehicle most of the pieces are fairly easy to figure out. Patience and accuracy is the key.
You may also find that 95% of the 3.4 ECM to the '90 connections are located in one plug, plug D. Also, 95% of the connections you'll need from the '90 are right there in the PS kick panel by the original ECM. Plug IH1 and IH2 had almost all I needed to connect to.
If I did a swap again and found a donor with a uncut harness I'd have been miles ahead. Adding a supercharger or an automatic into the equation would surely complicate things, but I'd imagine still something that could be handled.
Mind you, I am just fine sticking with the complexity of the 5spd swap... that was hard enough.

#57
Its Alive!!!!!
Thats right it fired up, but then it shut right off, i guess i need to figure out the wiring relay for the fuel pump now
. i am happy that i got to hear it fire up. i still have to tie some loose ends up but thas no biggy. i have to put in the radiator, heater hoses, and do the exhaust. i will keep you guys posted.
i have to work over the weekend so it will be tuesday before i can woork on it again.
:banger:
#58
Nice job. Seems like you are close.
I had a similiar issue... fired fine then died. I really found an OBDII scanner to be invaulable. Helped me trace down the problem right away, which happened to be one loose igniter plug wire.
Hopefully yours is an easy fix as well.
I had a similiar issue... fired fine then died. I really found an OBDII scanner to be invaulable. Helped me trace down the problem right away, which happened to be one loose igniter plug wire.
Hopefully yours is an easy fix as well.
#59
does anyone know where the afm wire is? i have found where the fc wire for the fuel pump is for the ecm but i cant find the afm wire that used to go to the air flow meter on the old 3.0. is it on the harness plugs, if so then what color? i have checked all that were not hooked up and they all were either 12v or ground, i would think it would be open. also where are the open circuit relays and the other relays that operate the fuel pum, i might have something wired wrong and would like to check at the relays.
#60
What year is your vehicle, and what year did the 3.4 come from?
Circuit Opening Relay (COR): PS kick panel, above the ECM. Has 5 connections.
EFI Main relay: Engine compartment, in main fuse box, PS.
Starter relay: DS kick panel, above fuse block.
Those three relays are tied into the fuel pump circuit. The fuel pump is directly activated by the COR.



