3.4 Swap CA Smog Info
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks man!
Im learning about this smog nonsense as I go. Tons of info here!
I have been focusing on my evap monitor exclusively for the last few days.
I can Idle my truck for 5 mins and the ECT comes up to 195* I do the cold soak per drive cycle #5 and then on jack stands run the truck.
I just met with my regular smog guy and showed him the results of my appointment with the REF. He says the following:
Don't pop the gas cap before the drive cycle since my donor (1998) doesn't have a pump to pump up the evap for the beginning of the test.
Don't go by the drive cycles set forth by Toyota. Just go drive it.
He thinks I have a marginal rear O2. says replace it and reset ECU, drive the truck every day and bring it in Friday to put on the machine and see if it passes. If not, then I for sure need a new cat. he thinks this is why my cat monitor wont run.
Did you make your own crossover? cut up stock one and weld it back together? Did they put your sticker in the door jam?
Im learning about this smog nonsense as I go. Tons of info here!
I have been focusing on my evap monitor exclusively for the last few days.
I can Idle my truck for 5 mins and the ECT comes up to 195* I do the cold soak per drive cycle #5 and then on jack stands run the truck.
I just met with my regular smog guy and showed him the results of my appointment with the REF. He says the following:
Don't pop the gas cap before the drive cycle since my donor (1998) doesn't have a pump to pump up the evap for the beginning of the test.
Don't go by the drive cycles set forth by Toyota. Just go drive it.
He thinks I have a marginal rear O2. says replace it and reset ECU, drive the truck every day and bring it in Friday to put on the machine and see if it passes. If not, then I for sure need a new cat. he thinks this is why my cat monitor wont run.
Did you make your own crossover? cut up stock one and weld it back together? Did they put your sticker in the door jam?
I found a lot of info from lots of different threads.
If I can find it again I'll sticky it to this one.
Crap I forgot to mention I didn't necessarily have to go through the patterns just like TOYOTA mentions.
The main thing to do is make sure all the temps are within spec, and then, like the ref said, just drive it around.
I tried to follow the drive patterns, but it tripped pretty quickly once I started driving so I didn't have to (since I already met the temp requirement)
Also I never popped the gas cap?
I got an engine sourced from ToyOnlySwaps, so they did a lot of the hard work for me and made a custom crossover for it.
It was essentially a plug and play kit. Pretty amazing actually!
Took alot of the bulls#*% out of the swap.
Here's the crossover:
They included a down pipe as well with a spot for the O2 sensor.
Picture from down below before I got the exhaust completed:
Here's a link to my 3.4 swap as well that may have some helpful info,
however it leaves a lot of important stuff out as well, because half of it ToyOnlySwaps did for me,
and some of is probably just missing:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51999915
#23
Yeah there is quite a bit of nonsense for CA.
I found a lot of info from lots of different threads.
If I can find it again I'll sticky it to this one.
Crap I forgot to mention I didn't necessarily have to go through the patterns just like TOYOTA mentions.
The main thing to do is make sure all the temps are within spec, and then, like the ref said, just drive it around.
I tried to follow the drive patterns, but it tripped pretty quickly once I started driving so I didn't have to (since I already met the temp requirement)
Also I never popped the gas cap?
I got an engine sourced from ToyOnlySwaps, so they did a lot of the hard work for me and made a custom crossover for it.
It was essentially a plug and play kit. Pretty amazing actually!
Took alot of the bulls#*% out of the swap.
Here's the crossover:
They included a down pipe as well with a spot for the O2 sensor.
Picture from down below before I got the exhaust completed:
Here's a link to my 3.4 swap as well that may have some helpful info,
however it leaves a lot of important stuff out as well, because half of it ToyOnlySwaps did for me,
and some of is probably just missing:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51999915
I found a lot of info from lots of different threads.
If I can find it again I'll sticky it to this one.
Crap I forgot to mention I didn't necessarily have to go through the patterns just like TOYOTA mentions.
The main thing to do is make sure all the temps are within spec, and then, like the ref said, just drive it around.
I tried to follow the drive patterns, but it tripped pretty quickly once I started driving so I didn't have to (since I already met the temp requirement)
Also I never popped the gas cap?
I got an engine sourced from ToyOnlySwaps, so they did a lot of the hard work for me and made a custom crossover for it.
It was essentially a plug and play kit. Pretty amazing actually!
Took alot of the bulls#*% out of the swap.
Here's the crossover:
They included a down pipe as well with a spot for the O2 sensor.
Picture from down below before I got the exhaust completed:
Here's a link to my 3.4 swap as well that may have some helpful info,
however it leaves a lot of important stuff out as well, because half of it ToyOnlySwaps did for me,
and some of is probably just missing:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51999915
That gives more merit to what my smog guy told me. What was your backup plan if the REF failed you due to the crossover? I had TOS do my wire harness, nice guys down there! I think I will be making my own complete crossover from scratch when it comes time. I'm using the R150 from behind the 3.4 as my truck was originally a 22RE. Getting the exhaust to clear the frame and the clutch slave on the driverside might be a little tricky. Up next for my project is a diamond front axle, 4WU 3link front & 4 link rear on fox 2.5's. At this point I kinda wish I would have gone with a driver drop front housing and the stock tcase from the donor with a dual case kit.. I think my exhaust issues would be simplified that way. Right now i'm half way tempted to say screw it and dive into suspension/tube work and then take this thread with me as backup if he complains about my driver drop exhaust.. the only reason I was holding out on suspension was the pass exhaust leaves no room for my upper link or my front driveshaft. Did your REF ask you about the crossover at all?
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks again for all the info! I have read up on your threads, nice 4runner.
That gives more merit to what my smog guy told me. What was your backup plan if the REF failed you due to the crossover? I had TOS do my wire harness, nice guys down there! I think I will be making my own complete crossover from scratch when it comes time. I'm using the R150 from behind the 3.4 as my truck was originally a 22RE. Getting the exhaust to clear the frame and the clutch slave on the driverside might be a little tricky. Up next for my project is a diamond front axle, 4WU 3link front & 4 link rear on fox 2.5's. At this point I kinda wish I would have gone with a driver drop front housing and the stock tcase from the donor with a dual case kit.. I think my exhaust issues would be simplified that way. Right now i'm half way tempted to say screw it and dive into suspension/tube work and then take this thread with me as backup if he complains about my driver drop exhaust.. the only reason I was holding out on suspension was the pass exhaust leaves no room for my upper link or my front driveshaft. Did your REF ask you about the crossover at all?
That gives more merit to what my smog guy told me. What was your backup plan if the REF failed you due to the crossover? I had TOS do my wire harness, nice guys down there! I think I will be making my own complete crossover from scratch when it comes time. I'm using the R150 from behind the 3.4 as my truck was originally a 22RE. Getting the exhaust to clear the frame and the clutch slave on the driverside might be a little tricky. Up next for my project is a diamond front axle, 4WU 3link front & 4 link rear on fox 2.5's. At this point I kinda wish I would have gone with a driver drop front housing and the stock tcase from the donor with a dual case kit.. I think my exhaust issues would be simplified that way. Right now i'm half way tempted to say screw it and dive into suspension/tube work and then take this thread with me as backup if he complains about my driver drop exhaust.. the only reason I was holding out on suspension was the pass exhaust leaves no room for my upper link or my front driveshaft. Did your REF ask you about the crossover at all?
It's been awhile since I've had to deal with smog, but I think I found it in a post somewhere (before I did my swap) that the ref OKd the crossover.
I then contacted him and asked a million questions about the exhaust and what's required.
If he had said no to the crossover and driver side dump, I would have had the exhaust squeezed through the tight fit on the passenger side (the original dump side for the 5vze), gotten it smogged, and then probably switch it back to the safer driver side.
Haha not really sure, but luckily it's all legal and I didn't have to deal with it.
As far as I know you shouldn't have any problem with the crossover, but I'm sure each County is different.
And man I wish I had the time and money for a SAS...
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NOR CAL
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Question for you guys I've been looking around and haven't found anything written about 98 specific 3.4's being easier to wire. I have someone that has done the swap twice now, telling me that it is a more universal harness and easier to splice with 3.0 harnesses. I have a 96 4runner im pulling a 3.4 from this weekend and wondering if I can use a 98 harness and M/T ECU, on a 96 engine going into a M/T 95 4runner. Did not know if that would present a problem at the B.A.R. station.
#26
Registered User
Question for you guys I've been looking around and haven't found anything written about 98 specific 3.4's being easier to wire. I have someone that has done the swap twice now, telling me that it is a more universal harness and easier to splice with 3.0 harnesses. I have a 96 4runner im pulling a 3.4 from this weekend and wondering if I can use a 98 harness and M/T ECU, on a 96 engine going into a M/T 95 4runner. Did not know if that would present a problem at the B.A.R. station.
There's really no difference between the 96 and 97 4Runners, but moving to a 98 I've heard there are a quite a few differences. And on top of everything else, you can register and SMOG it as a 96 or 97 which has slightly lower emission standards than a 98.
#27
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Go find a 96 or 97 M/T 4Runner ECU at the junk yard (PN 89661-3D140 for a 1996 4Runner ECU 3.4L MT 4x4; or 89661-3D310 for the 1997 version), then swap the connectors from the A/T harness you have to the M/T connectors (as outlined in the 3.4 swap 101 sticky) and call it a day.
There's really no difference between the 96 and 97 4Runners, but moving to a 98 I've heard there are a quite a few differences. And on top of everything else, you can register and SMOG it as a 96 or 97 which has slightly lower emission standards than a 98.
There's really no difference between the 96 and 97 4Runners, but moving to a 98 I've heard there are a quite a few differences. And on top of everything else, you can register and SMOG it as a 96 or 97 which has slightly lower emission standards than a 98.
#28
I purchased a complete donor vehicle for my swap. Just happened to be a MT/4x4 There were 4 plugs that plug into the ECU. Only one had to be messed with. There are 2 more plugs from the engine harness that had to plug into 2 plugs on my body harness Via a jumper harness. (recipient was 4cyl MT/4x4) I had Toy Only Swaps make this jumper harness. It was stupid simple, took 3 mins to install had OBD port, VSS plug, starter trigger wire all on the jumper harness. If your looking for easy, do what sacrunner says and obtain early MT engine harness and ECU. Then have TOS make up a jumper.
#29
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Correct.
I purchased a complete donor vehicle for my swap. Just happened to be a MT/4x4 There were 4 plugs that plug into the ECU. Only one had to be messed with. There are 2 more plugs from the engine harness that had to plug into 2 plugs on my body harness Via a jumper harness. (recipient was 4cyl MT/4x4) I had Toy Only Swaps make this jumper harness. It was stupid simple, took 3 mins to install had OBD port, VSS plug, starter trigger wire all on the jumper harness. If your looking for easy, do what sacrunner says and obtain early MT engine harness and ECU. Then have TOS make up a jumper.
#30
Re-reading that sounds confusing.
cut like this when you pull stuff from donor
(engine wiring) =========(engine wiring connector)(body connector)=====(cut here)=======(more body harness wiring)
how's that?
#31
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You wont really need the whole body harness. but you will need the plugs from the body harness that the engine harness plugs into. the jumper harness is typically made from the plugs from donor body harness and plugs from recipient engine harness. That way it all plugs in nice and simple.
Re-reading that sounds confusing.
cut like this when you pull stuff from donor
(engine wiring) =========(engine wiring connector)(body connector)=====(cut here)=======(more body harness wiring)
how's that?
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
You can visit a STAR Test-and-Repair stations are authorized smog check star station. Dissimilar to a Smog Check Test-and- Repair station, STAR Test-and-Repair stations can repair vehicles that have been endorsed to accept budgetary support to outflows-related repairs through CAP. Moreover, not at all like a Test- Only station, they can likewise assess and repair administered vehicles.
And by the looks of your other posts I'm guessing this is SPAM?
Forgive me if I'm wrong
#33
Hi there I'm new to this site and was wondering if you have any picture of your swap? Im in the middle of a swap from a 97 4runner 3.4 into my 94 4runner and need help with all the evap and water hose....I have all the harness already.
#34
Registered User
Hey guys I am a bit confused about these monitors. From what I read the evap and cat monitors are hard to trip to the "Ready" state. If I follow these procedures and get them to the "Ready" state will they stay there for a period of time or will I have to go through these procedures just before I drive over to the smog ref?
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#35
Registered User
Hey guys I am a bit confused about these monitors. From what I read the evap and cat monitors are hard to trip to the "Ready" state. If I follow these procedures and get them to the "Ready" state will they stay there for a period of time or will I have to go through these procedures just before I drive over to the smog ref?
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Just FYI, all monitors have to have ran successfully for a referee inspection. For just a regular smog check, you can have up to 2 incomplete and pass.
#37
Registered User
#39
Registered User
Basically that is what th computer is going to tell the smog ref you have for emission components so that is what they will visually look for. These will also be listed on the BAR sticker for future inspections so let's say you have egr right now, run thru the ref and get a sticker. If you decide later down the road to take off the egr, swap ecms to a non egr setup, and then go for your biannual check, you'll fail the visual.