Tacoma 4.0 engine swap?
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Tacoma 4.0 engine swap?
Hey, I was just thinking, has anyone ever done a Tacoma 4.0 V6 engine swap. I have no idea what the name of the engine is(like 22-re, 3VZE, 5VZFE) but, I do know that it puts out some pretty impressive numbers, 236 HP, I think 260 lb-ft torque. If I could have one motor for my 4runner, this would probably be it. I need some sort of fuel economy, but more importantly POWER. The 3.4 is lacking in this area, still, and a V8 swap may compromise fuel economy. Has any one ever though of, or done a swap for this engine in a 2nd gen 4runner, or equivalent pickup? Is it possible? Would it be worth it?
#2
Not sure if this applies to your question, but here you go:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...3-0l-v6-53160/
Check with Cebby, I know he's knows about this stuff.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...3-0l-v6-53160/
Check with Cebby, I know he's knows about this stuff.
Last edited by Four Runner; 08-07-2007 at 11:17 PM.
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the 4.0L v6 is too tall to fit into the 2nd gen 4runners with out a drivetrain drop.
in addition to that, with 10:1 compression, it takes premium fuel to run properly, thus ruining any fuel economy.
the 1uz engine can get around 17-18 mpg, which is what i am averaging on my 5vz-fe with 33's.
in addition to that, with 10:1 compression, it takes premium fuel to run properly, thus ruining any fuel economy.
the 1uz engine can get around 17-18 mpg, which is what i am averaging on my 5vz-fe with 33's.
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So, In other words, Its time for me to invest in a new(er) 4runner... By the way that swap was one of the sweetest things I have ever seen on here. maybe I'll swap in a Volks Wagen diesel in my 4runner, and use that as my commuter(30MPG is definitly for me) but as for power.......
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Any swap can be done, it's just a question of how much $$$ you have.
The 4.0 is a very tall motor as was already mentioned and it's not a true bolt in like a 3.4 is. However I agree that the 3.4 is not enough of an improvement to warrant the headache of a swap as far as I'm concerned.
The 4.0 is a very tall motor as was already mentioned and it's not a true bolt in like a 3.4 is. However I agree that the 3.4 is not enough of an improvement to warrant the headache of a swap as far as I'm concerned.
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I have to somewhat disagree with the thoughts that the 3.4 is not a good enough improvement.
While I doubt that I would have done my 3.4 swap if my 3.0 hadn't siezed, I can tell you that it is a marked difference in power and drivability over the 3.0. I haven't gone to the extent of doing the factory supercharger, and it is still a far superior ride with the new engine in it. I'm also getting about 25-30% better gas milage out of it, than I did with the 3.0.
The combination of my '90 SR5 xtra cab truck, with the 3.4, makes for a very sweet ride!
While I doubt that I would have done my 3.4 swap if my 3.0 hadn't siezed, I can tell you that it is a marked difference in power and drivability over the 3.0. I haven't gone to the extent of doing the factory supercharger, and it is still a far superior ride with the new engine in it. I'm also getting about 25-30% better gas milage out of it, than I did with the 3.0.
The combination of my '90 SR5 xtra cab truck, with the 3.4, makes for a very sweet ride!
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I have to somewhat disagree with the thoughts that the 3.4 is not a good enough improvement.
While I doubt that I would have done my 3.4 swap if my 3.0 hadn't siezed, I can tell you that it is a marked difference in power and drivability over the 3.0. I haven't gone to the extent of doing the factory supercharger, and it is still a far superior ride with the new engine in it. I'm also getting about 25-30% better gas milage out of it, than I did with the 3.0.
The combination of my '90 SR5 xtra cab truck, with the 3.4, makes for a very sweet ride!
While I doubt that I would have done my 3.4 swap if my 3.0 hadn't siezed, I can tell you that it is a marked difference in power and drivability over the 3.0. I haven't gone to the extent of doing the factory supercharger, and it is still a far superior ride with the new engine in it. I'm also getting about 25-30% better gas milage out of it, than I did with the 3.0.
The combination of my '90 SR5 xtra cab truck, with the 3.4, makes for a very sweet ride!
#10
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And premium is sooooo much more expensive then regular? Not really.
Premium 93 octane here is 2.949/gallon
Regular 89 octane here is 2.649/gallon
So over 14.7 gallons (when your low gas light comes on):
Premium 93 octane = 43.35
Regular 89 octane = 38.94
The difference? $4.41
Not a big deal at all. In fact you will spend 5x that much on 1 oil change! Food for thought.
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Since when does octane have ANY effect on fuel economy? 18mpg is still 18mpg no matter what octane it is.
And premium is sooooo much more expensive then regular? Not really.
Premium 93 octane here is 2.949/gallon
Regular 89 octane here is 2.649/gallon
So over 14.7 gallons (when your low gas light comes on):
Premium 93 octane = 43.35
Regular 89 octane = 38.94
The difference? $4.41
Not a big deal at all. In fact you will spend 5x that much on 1 oil change! Food for thought.
And premium is sooooo much more expensive then regular? Not really.
Premium 93 octane here is 2.949/gallon
Regular 89 octane here is 2.649/gallon
So over 14.7 gallons (when your low gas light comes on):
Premium 93 octane = 43.35
Regular 89 octane = 38.94
The difference? $4.41
Not a big deal at all. In fact you will spend 5x that much on 1 oil change! Food for thought.
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Since when does octane have ANY effect on fuel economy? 18mpg is still 18mpg no matter what octane it is.
And premium is sooooo much more expensive then regular? Not really.
Premium 93 octane here is 2.949/gallon
Regular 89 octane here is 2.649/gallon
So over 14.7 gallons (when your low gas light comes on):
Premium 93 octane = 43.35
Regular 89 octane = 38.94
The difference? $4.41
Not a big deal at all. In fact you will spend 5x that much on 1 oil change! Food for thought.
And premium is sooooo much more expensive then regular? Not really.
Premium 93 octane here is 2.949/gallon
Regular 89 octane here is 2.649/gallon
So over 14.7 gallons (when your low gas light comes on):
Premium 93 octane = 43.35
Regular 89 octane = 38.94
The difference? $4.41
Not a big deal at all. In fact you will spend 5x that much on 1 oil change! Food for thought.
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I'm becoming more and more interested in doing a swap, especially when I started my 4runner up today, and for the first time ever, I saw a big cloud of smoke exit the tailpipe...I think a swap(or replacement) is not too far off. Was the 3.4 swap as simple as most people make it out to be? And how much more does it cost to swap in a 3.4 rather than just another 3.slow???
If you are interested in the 3.4 swap, be sure to take a look at http://www.offroadsolutions.com. Mike is a great guy to deal with, and very helpful along the way.
Also take a look at Mt Goat's build. VERY involved, and VERY detailed (well worth the read). https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...started-82145/
He gets into more things that can be done in conjunction with the conversion, but it makes for a great over view of what you might be getting into.
I was going to direct you to my thread about it, but it seems to be gone, now.
edit: Found it! https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...warning-93642/
Last edited by breknraj; 08-08-2007 at 10:23 PM.
#14
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By comparision, look at the 1991 Honda CRX with the D15 engine. Most got 40mpg or better. That works out to $1721 in gas per year. Saving you 2,327.94 per year. Considering the age of the vehicle, it will take it 1 year to pay for itself completely, even with low miles. If you are nuts about fuel economy go with a small car or motorcycle thats used. Much more effective over the long haul than skimping on octane ratings.
15mpg mixed driving here on 93 octane with 17* btdc ignition timing and a 2.5ton 4runner...
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 08-08-2007 at 10:23 PM.
#15
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Getting a little off topic here, but you want to run the LOWEST octane gas without knock/ping.
Higher octane = less energy - that's why it is more resistant to knock/ping! In cases where the vehicle is designed for it (or in the case of turbos, compensates for it), the lower energy content of the fuel is more than overcome by the increase in efficiency of the higher compression ratio.
Higher octane = less energy - that's why it is more resistant to knock/ping! In cases where the vehicle is designed for it (or in the case of turbos, compensates for it), the lower energy content of the fuel is more than overcome by the increase in efficiency of the higher compression ratio.
#16
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What about a toyota Diesel--the newer turbo ones (1ktz i think)--i would even send you money if you documented the build/conversion. We might even be able to get a kitty going for ya--you build, sweat, bleed, stress-out, cry, laugh, stay up all night, leave the family--and we all get together to help you finance the project. you make the mistakes--we benefit. WHAT SAYS YOU?
#17
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What about a toyota Diesel--the newer turbo ones (1ktz i think)--i would even send you money if you documented the build/conversion. We might even be able to get a kitty going for ya--you build, sweat, bleed, stress-out, cry, laugh, stay up all night, leave the family--and we all get together to help you finance the project. you make the mistakes--we benefit. WHAT SAYS YOU?
Tempting, but afterall, it is my daily driver, and I would really like something that I do not have to adjust/repair constantly(nothing wrong with yota diesel, but I just don't want to be the 1st to swap it into a 4runner) also, i have LIMITED mechanical skills, decent knowledge about stuff, but i doubt that I have what it takes to perform this sort of operation, esp. without instructions, or help from others. I could possibly perform a 3.4 swap(with a little help) but I am in NO WAY going to pay someone to do this for me. I like the 4.0 personally because it is quite powerful, and I like it's useable power. BTW the Volks Wagen diesel swap was just for kicks(and for samurai's). When I win the lottery, I'll just have to buy a 4.0......and the 4Runner that it's attached to. I just have an abnormally heavy right foot, possibly caused from horsepower deprivision(I blame the 3VZE for that, great long lasting motor, but SLOW) Need horsepower, will swap. now back to that 4.0..... any one interested in that?
#20
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Getting a little off topic here, but you want to run the LOWEST octane gas without knock/ping.
Higher octane = less energy - that's why it is more resistant to knock/ping! In cases where the vehicle is designed for it (or in the case of turbos, compensates for it), the lower energy content of the fuel is more than overcome by the increase in efficiency of the higher compression ratio.
Higher octane = less energy - that's why it is more resistant to knock/ping! In cases where the vehicle is designed for it (or in the case of turbos, compensates for it), the lower energy content of the fuel is more than overcome by the increase in efficiency of the higher compression ratio.
Octane ratings only address the fuel's resistance to detonation, nothing else. The flame front and energy density are not affected unless the higher octane fuel is formulated differently which it often is to improve energy density.
Sometimes manufacturers dope the fuel with more carbon-carbon bonded molecules which take a high activation energy to break up (thus resist detonation) and also therefore release more energy per unit volume.
The fact that the engine can run at a high compression ratio in itself improves the engine's thermodynamic efficiency.
To save money, one might run the lowest octane fuel, I do. However, my engine is not designed to take advantage of the higher octane hence my savings.
To really say how much money you are spending or not using higher octane fuel really requires one to compare the sizes of the engines in displacememt, size overall, weight or engines, etc... and decide if a more power dense engine with higher compression that requires higher octane is worth it. Given that the 4.0 likely won't fit very well supercharging a 3.4 and running higher octane gas might very well be the more cost effective way to get 4.0L-ish power in a smaller lighter package.
Frank