Looks like there is a lot of SAS experience here. I have a 93 4runner with a 3.0 V6 that I want to do an SAS on. My questions are 1. After the SAS, how does a 93 4runner handle on the road? I drive it to work almost daily, but I really want to do a SAS. 2. Any recommendations for where to get a deal on a SAS kit? 3. Any recommendations for where possibly on the Internet I might get a deal on a Front Solid Axle? Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Drive a truck like yours swapped like you plan to.

I needed to hang a solid axle to keep wheeling, so trade offs were a moot point.

With full width axles, air bumps and a modest height, I can take unbanked corners at 25 with crapping myself. The assist lets me run 80 MPH down the highway getting around 20 mpg. After the tire vibe at 65, it is pretty decent.

I have Alcans, a FROR hanger, Fox shocks and air bumps. Not the cheapest, but it works really well.

 

remember what a sas is for...not the track

 

Umm - yeah ... and that's just the FRONT... wicked triangulated 4 link with coilovers in the rear ... and some other stuff... LOL

 

My SAS 4Runner is all I own and drive. I have no issues with the road manners. I've gone from AZ to Moab and back in what I would consider relative comfort. I don't have to fight for control or ask for a massage after a long drive. The SAS has better road manners then many would guess.

Marlin, TrailGear, AllPro, Sky all make various levels of SAS kits. Trail Gear's is probably the cheapest and most complete.

You'll probably want to dig through your local salvage yards or classifieds for a front axle. Try your best to verify the housing is straight and in good shape. Axles, gears, knuckles, steering will probably end up getting replaced the more you mod your vehicle anyway.

 

Yeah Adrien - your truck doesn't count I mean what you did is just SICK ok? Not normal... LOL

Rollcage.. my truck is probably more like what yours will end up like. 93 3.0v6 SAS - Toyota axle (not full width like Adrien's) on 35's with all pro leafs. She's hard to drive as a daily driver mostly because of the "death wobble" (search on that) which I get at 35mph. I didn't always have DW but with a Solid Axle you are likely to get it from wheeling hard - and then constantly having to tweak things to make it go away. But many people do have SA's as their daily drivers.

You need to decide if you want to go full width or not. Full width provides more stability - but it can also be hard on tight trails. It is also more expensive. From what I hear an 85 Toyota axle is stronger than a Dana 44 - do if you are going to go regular width go with a Toyota axle.

All Pro and some other companies make solid axle conversion kits. I am not crazy about all pro parts (I feel like any of their mechanichal parts aren't made as well but it works for the price.)

Other things to consider:
* Springs
* New driveline (with slip yoke)
* Gearing and Locker
* Birfields vs longfields or birf eliminator
* Manual hubs
* Shocks
* Bumstops or air bumps
* Stearing upgrades

You'll need to address all of those things.

 

I actually prefer the ride of my sas from when it was IFS.it actually rides smoother.....you feel a little more body roll in the corners,but I am pretty sure it woud have done that with IFS if I lifted it the same hieght

 

Ok don't sound to bad. I only drive a few miles at 55mph. I’ve been looking at allpro's kit, but ive got time to look. I was also questioning a leaf spring conversion in the rear! still pondering! Definitely going to gear it when I rebuild the used axle, but not sure what type of locker to put in the front. Im thinking some type of selectable. As far as the kit goes I noticed it is offered in a 4inch lift or 6inch lift?????? I kind like the 6inch. Thanks for the info guys.

 

I did a leaf spring conversion on the rear of mine. I feel good flex, less road sway and a lot less parts to fail, bind or break.

I'd suggest going lower (4") and not higher (6"). 35's fit no problem with a 4" lift and any higher you won't like the offroad manners.

I have a ARB with 5.29's in the rear, and a Aussie with 5.29's in the front. I was concerned about having a non-selectable in the front, but haven't had problems yet. I make corners fine and with manual hubs I could unlock one side if I got into something really tight.

The reason I went this way instead of dual ARB's was to save pennies.

 

It's stock, really.

Links to leaves, what gets people is height and tire.

Balancing a 35 or 37 on a 15 is hard.

A linked coilover truck could THEORETICALLY be dialed in with a swaybar and spring rate EASIER than a leaf truck. Problem is we are talking many times the cash on the links.

My truck now drives better than with hammered IFS. Ride, steering, tracking, etc. It ought to though, everything below the frame got changed except the front brake calipers.

It is also extremely low compared to the way people do this. On 37's, I am lower than a 95 mini with an AP kit on 35's. It drives amazingly and I have no qualms about tossing the keys to anyone. It is also my DD.

 

my 93 drives fine with a SAS and rear leafs, and it's my DD. my setup is 5" HD trail-gear springs up front, 6" All-Pros out back, 35" MTRs, and yota axles. aside from the body roll, it drives just as nice as it did with IFS. it's no sports car, but it's more than liveable.

 

Elvota I agree with you on the rear leaf spring conversion. Less parts to fail and replace. And a 4" lift would probably be better. I’ve already rolled an 83 toy, don't need to roll another!

I’m definitely going with a Toyota axle. I understand that an 85 axle is the best bet. Is the 85 the only year with this extra strength? Maybe late 84?

 

Less things to fail?

I have 4 pieces of steel and two coilovers connecting my rear axle to the truck.

A leaf sprung truck has 3 bolts per leaf, plus two u-bolts. We can call coilovers and shocks a wash, both a bolt on each end. I will bet on leaf springs failing before 3/8 DOM.

Young Grasshopper, you have much reading to do.

84-84 have a gusset stock. Earlier you can add one. At some point you should think about a shave, truss and ball gusset. Then you might have a straight housing. I have two Diamonds for this reason, among others.

 

We got all the parts you need.

I daily drove my 85 on 37s for over a year and it was fine.

 

When I swapped to leafs my only other option was to modify the existing factory link setup. Even though I don't have endless mechanical knowledge, it seemed from my research and by general assessment that the factory setup had some week links when raising the vehicle and looking for more flex. I felt the factory link setup once modified to match the front would be weaker and more complex than a rear leaf swap.

That said, if I had the budget and experience, I would definitely like to link the rear (and probably front), for I would be the first to admit that well designed and built coil/ link setup is definitely the way to go. A linked rig is an amazingly capable and strong vehicle.

But dollars to donuts... I went with the leaf swap for it's relative simplicity, strength and cost. Plus even I couldn't screw it up.

 

Mines gonna be a D.D. for a bit, so far no death wobble, we were toeing in a lot at first but a few tweaks and its not that bad. It does feel different and will take me a bit to get used to driving it, but it seems to ride smooth, oh curbs, speedbumps, etc we hit at 25 with no problema
x2 on molly's comment and if your lucky you'll get a clean set of man hubs with your axle housings,
Trail-gear is the most complete and they often offer other parts that might be needed when adapting parts to your rig, also if you are re-gearing and its a auto 4.88 start looking for a 4.56 or 4.10 v6 third.
My biggest issues was getting everything to fit right as we had to adapt a lot of different parts. It has worked out nicely. I get to bring it home tomorrow.