Newb SAS build and a few Q's
Mar 29, 2007 | 12:58 PM
#21
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Colorado Springs
I will be curious to see how you "re-use" the front spring brackets from the used front end. Most of the SAS kits available sell this as a point to point assembly as the springs sit just outside the frame rails on the newer trucks.
I am sure you are aware of this already, but I'd like to see how you solve the width problem using just the older brackets, so any pics when you get to that point would be sweet.
I am sure you are aware of this already, but I'd like to see how you solve the width problem using just the older brackets, so any pics when you get to that point would be sweet.
I thought about doing the cryo treatment as well. I have a contact at a metal treatment facility and might be able to slip them in a batch. Does anyone know exactly what happens in the cryo process? (are the gears dipped in liquid nitrogen or something?)
Mar 29, 2007 | 02:40 PM
#22
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: NorCal!
I have had problems with my oil pan hitting the link arms. but i am running old 4" lift springs. i need to get the 5" HD TG springs.
unless you do alot trimming and/or go wiht like 35x10.5 tire you'll need a 4" of lift to clear the tires. and honestly, i wouldnt want to go through ALLL the work of a SAS and not have it stand out. if you only get 2-3" of lift its going to look like your running BJ spacers and a BL unless you know what your looking for. i enjoy the fact that people stare at me when driving down the road a lil kids say to their mom "look at that monster truck"
i have had no problems with it being top heavy or unstable, and i drive like a mad man. granted it doesn't do curves like my dads BMW Z4 but then again i can drive over it
Apr 5, 2007 | 09:37 AM
#23
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interesting thread....
I was going to go this route to save $$ about a month ago. I too was worried about too much lift from a sas in 'kit' form. I have a whole front clip from an 85 runner that I was going to use. Same idea, cut behind the cab mounts and use the whole crossmember.
Then I just folded from all the peer pressure from all my friends at work(at the toy dealer) and decided to go 3" TG.
I still think using the stock stuff would work well with lots of planning.
Measure twice, cut once.
I was going to go this route to save $$ about a month ago. I too was worried about too much lift from a sas in 'kit' form. I have a whole front clip from an 85 runner that I was going to use. Same idea, cut behind the cab mounts and use the whole crossmember.
Then I just folded from all the peer pressure from all my friends at work(at the toy dealer) and decided to go 3" TG.
I still think using the stock stuff would work well with lots of planning.
Measure twice, cut once.
Apr 5, 2007 | 11:57 AM
#24
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Colorado Springs
update
The thing I am most worried about at this point is the oil pan / pitman arm clearance. I am planning to do a mockup stage with the spring mounts tacked up and the axle/steering on to check this then adjust it. hopefully I can catch everything big before it's welded on.
Update: the SAS may have to wait a couple weeks more, I separated my shoulder mountain biking and it's probably going to take a while to heal enough to do the build.
It was a pretty impressive crash and I wound up with a mild concussion (yes, I had my helmet on) and a large amount of road rash.
Update: the SAS may have to wait a couple weeks more, I separated my shoulder mountain biking and it's probably going to take a while to heal enough to do the build.
It was a pretty impressive crash and I wound up with a mild concussion (yes, I had my helmet on) and a large amount of road rash.
Apr 6, 2007 | 05:39 PM
#25
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Oregon
If you get a oil pan out of a 2 wheel drive IFS truck with the same engine it should shorter. this atleast is true for the 3.0 i have in my truck. I bent my arms then found that a 2wheel drive pickup or 4 runner has a less deep oil pan due to clearance.
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