My SAS
Nov 2, 2009 | 01:44 PM
#42
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 448
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From: CA
Lol. Yeah I thought about it and I can just create a template with cardboard! I'm going to try that out and I'm gunna beef it up like crazy I don't want it to ever move again. Lol. Anyway I ordered the piece for my welder so that should be here soon and then I'm getting gas and its goin down. lol.
Nov 2, 2009 | 04:03 PM
#43
Another approach on that shackle hanger for the front.
We did something similar to mine in the rear. We made blocks to weld to the frame and then welded the shackle hangers to the block. Up front you could do something similar. Get some square or rectangular stock, cut to fit the tubes, weld the tubes inside the stock then weld the stock to the frame. It would give you a much larger surface area to weld and also spread the stress over a bigger area.
Pics
from this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index5.html
We did something similar to mine in the rear. We made blocks to weld to the frame and then welded the shackle hangers to the block. Up front you could do something similar. Get some square or rectangular stock, cut to fit the tubes, weld the tubes inside the stock then weld the stock to the frame. It would give you a much larger surface area to weld and also spread the stress over a bigger area.
Pics
from this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index5.html
Nov 3, 2009 | 11:36 AM
#44
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: CA
That's nice. That looks really strong. lol
I'm going to beef up the shackle hangers for sure. Something along the lines of your truck, BLKNBLU.
It's just a matter of doing all this work now. lol. I'm in college and work and it's hard to find any time really at all to work on my truck. But I have a break coming up where I will do all the work I can on my runner.
I'm going to beef up the shackle hangers for sure. Something along the lines of your truck, BLKNBLU.
It's just a matter of doing all this work now. lol. I'm in college and work and it's hard to find any time really at all to work on my truck. But I have a break coming up where I will do all the work I can on my runner.
Last edited by SMOD; Nov 3, 2009 at 12:53 PM.
Dec 1, 2009 | 08:14 AM
#45
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From: CA
So I finished up my x member the other day for my rear shocks. I noticed something I did wrong. I welded the shock tabs on the axle by eyesight and now I can tell I welded them on wrong. One shock is a lil more extended than the other by maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch I'm not sure. I'll get a pic up soon of the x member and the shocks.
Would it really matter if the tabs aren't perfect? The shocks still bolt right on. I don't know. I'll get pics for everyone to understand better. Thanks
Would it really matter if the tabs aren't perfect? The shocks still bolt right on. I don't know. I'll get pics for everyone to understand better. Thanks
Dec 1, 2009 | 06:29 PM
#46
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 535
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From: Suisun City, California
If the truck is not sitting on level ground then the axle may not parallel with the frame and can cause the shocks to be at different lengths. If they are a little off I don't think that it is going to make much difference, just as long as they don't bottom out.
Dec 3, 2009 | 11:53 AM
#47
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From: CA
Ok. I think I will redo the shock tabs sometime but I'll roll with it the way it is now for a little while.
Dec 3, 2009 | 11:56 AM
#48
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: CA
And also I made a bunch of little diagrams on paint and wrote explanations on them. Check them out in my pictures page. https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=1060
I still cant figure out how to get a pic on the thread. lol.
I have a problem with the front body mounts if I were to relocate my shackles into the frame and also I dont know some measurements.. I think my measurements are off and since I'm redoing the frame extension/shackle hanger/x member I figure I will get all the measurements right this time and not listen to someone else.
Oh and PS: You can see sort of in the pic of my front shackle hanger how the body mount is in the way really bad.
I still cant figure out how to get a pic on the thread. lol.
I have a problem with the front body mounts if I were to relocate my shackles into the frame and also I dont know some measurements.. I think my measurements are off and since I'm redoing the frame extension/shackle hanger/x member I figure I will get all the measurements right this time and not listen to someone else.
Oh and PS: You can see sort of in the pic of my front shackle hanger how the body mount is in the way really bad.
Last edited by SMOD; Dec 3, 2009 at 11:59 AM.
Dec 4, 2009 | 04:08 PM
#50
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
From: Suisun City, California
The best place to put the shackle tube threw the frame is between the body mount braces, this is the same location that toyota ran them for the straight axle.
If this gives you a bad shackle angle you could try running a 51" toyota rear spring. I noticed that your front hanger is moved about as far forward as mine and that is the spring that I run. The 44044 lower leafs should support toyota rears very nicely. You could also cut away the brace and reinforce it in a different manner if you wanted to use the 44044 main leafs.
For the rear you may want to try a s10 spring or a f150 spring. They have more arch, are a little bit shorter and flex well. This would make it so you would not need a extension at all.
As for posting pictures,
First upload the picture that you want to the internet or find a picture that you want to have in your reply.
Then right click on the picture and select copy image location.
Go to the forum where you reply to a thread and push the button at the top that looks like a picture of a mountain. If you hold you mouse over it it will pop up insert image.
Once you click it a window will pop up saying "Please enter the URL of your image:"
In the input box delete the "http://" then right click on it and select paste, then hit ok.
Then you will see that it inserted something like [IMG.]http://whateverthelinkwas[./IMG] into the text box.
You can also click the Preview Post button to make sure it is finding the image.
If this gives you a bad shackle angle you could try running a 51" toyota rear spring. I noticed that your front hanger is moved about as far forward as mine and that is the spring that I run. The 44044 lower leafs should support toyota rears very nicely. You could also cut away the brace and reinforce it in a different manner if you wanted to use the 44044 main leafs.
For the rear you may want to try a s10 spring or a f150 spring. They have more arch, are a little bit shorter and flex well. This would make it so you would not need a extension at all.
As for posting pictures,
First upload the picture that you want to the internet or find a picture that you want to have in your reply.
Then right click on the picture and select copy image location.
Go to the forum where you reply to a thread and push the button at the top that looks like a picture of a mountain. If you hold you mouse over it it will pop up insert image.
Once you click it a window will pop up saying "Please enter the URL of your image:"
In the input box delete the "http://" then right click on it and select paste, then hit ok.
Then you will see that it inserted something like [IMG.]http://whateverthelinkwas[./IMG] into the text box.
You can also click the Preview Post button to make sure it is finding the image.
Dec 7, 2009 | 02:21 PM
#51
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: CA
The best place to put the shackle tube threw the frame is between the body mount braces, this is the same location that toyota ran them for the straight axle.
If this gives you a bad shackle angle you could try running a 51" toyota rear spring. I noticed that your front hanger is moved about as far forward as mine and that is the spring that I run. The 44044 lower leafs should support toyota rears very nicely. You could also cut away the brace and reinforce it in a different manner if you wanted to use the 44044 main leafs.
For the rear you may want to try a s10 spring or a f150 spring. They have more arch, are a little bit shorter and flex well. This would make it so you would not need a extension at all.
As for posting pictures,
First upload the picture that you want to the internet or find a picture that you want to have in your reply.
Then right click on the picture and select copy image location.
Go to the forum where you reply to a thread and push the button at the top that looks like a picture of a mountain. If you hold you mouse over it it will pop up insert image.
Once you click it a window will pop up saying "Please enter the URL of your image:"
In the input box delete the "http://" then right click on it and select paste, then hit ok.
Then you will see that it inserted something like [IMG.]http://whateverthelinkwas[./IMG] into the text box.
You can also click the Preview Post button to make sure it is finding the image.
If this gives you a bad shackle angle you could try running a 51" toyota rear spring. I noticed that your front hanger is moved about as far forward as mine and that is the spring that I run. The 44044 lower leafs should support toyota rears very nicely. You could also cut away the brace and reinforce it in a different manner if you wanted to use the 44044 main leafs.
For the rear you may want to try a s10 spring or a f150 spring. They have more arch, are a little bit shorter and flex well. This would make it so you would not need a extension at all.
As for posting pictures,
First upload the picture that you want to the internet or find a picture that you want to have in your reply.
Then right click on the picture and select copy image location.
Go to the forum where you reply to a thread and push the button at the top that looks like a picture of a mountain. If you hold you mouse over it it will pop up insert image.
Once you click it a window will pop up saying "Please enter the URL of your image:"
In the input box delete the "http://" then right click on it and select paste, then hit ok.
Then you will see that it inserted something like [IMG.]http://whateverthelinkwas[./IMG] into the text box.
You can also click the Preview Post button to make sure it is finding the image.
As for the front, like you said whokrz, the leafs are too short to recieve a good shackle angle for how far forward I pushed the front hanger. So I thought about it and I think I will just keep the shackle hanger underneath the frame and run a shorter shackle. What would be the shortest shackle that I can run with it being safe and still flex well? Or if I did go with the toyota 51 inch rear springs how much do they cost usually? And would they flex more than my 44044's? And also I know its good to mount the shackle hanger thru the frame, but if I kept it underneath the frame with shorter shackle I shouldn't have any trouble with anything right?
Also can you check out the new pics in my profile that I made in paint? They have a few questions on them such as: How far apart do I weld the rear shackle hangers?
Thanks for all the help so far. It's helped a lot.
Dec 7, 2009 | 06:30 PM
#52
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
From: Suisun City, California
As far as flex I have never ran the 44044s but I have heard that they work well. My 51" springs max out a 14" shock. 4crawler runs 48" toyota rears and can max out 18.5" of shock with a triple shock setup, these are basicly the same as the 51" springs just a little shorter. Here is a link to his suspension page, it is a good read http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml
The 51" springs should be cheap. They are found on 90-95 toyota 4x4 pickups. I am not sure about the 2wds. I paid $150 for my front springs which I though was a bit high but I needed them and they were the only ones I could find at the time. I have seen them for as little as $25 a side.
I am not sure what diamater of the holes in your front hanger are. If they are the 18mm you will want to get the bushings from marlincrawler, they are the "spring bushing large" http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-bushing-large The bushings from trailgear have to large of an outside diameter and will require shaving them down.
If I remember right the stock shackle is 3.5" eye to eye, but if you end up with a lot of arch in your springs they may contact the frame when you stuff a wheel and the spring flattens out. As far as it being safe I would use 3/8 for the plates and not worry about it. Using a shorter shackle might make it flex a little less because it swings in a shorter arch, but I am not sure how much it will limit it.
Going threw the frame is best, but running the shackle hanger under the frame should work, although it may make your wheel alignment off and require a shim. If you do I would brace similar to what BLKNBLU recommended. I would make it look like a rear shackle hanger like in the below picture, but make the part where is contacts the frame longer (the top part in the picture)
Even using a rear shackle hanger would probably be strong enough. I am a little on the paranoid side, but I have also seen pictures of a rear shackle hanger that tore the frame on marlins forum. The closer you keep the tube to the bottom of the frame the closer your alignment will be, and the more contact it has with the frame the stronger it will be.
Here is a link to pirate4x4s 63" Chevy 1/2-ton spring swap FAQ!! http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10695743 he talks about placement.
The distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger along with the arch of the spring will determine the shackle angle.
The springs and axle should look like an H. The springs should be parallel and square to the axle. The axle should also be square with the frame rail. The axle should also be centered.
Basiclly if you measure from the center of one spring perch to the other. That should be the same measurement as from the center of one spring hanger to the other, and the same for the shackle hanger. This should make it so you can measure the distance between the springs at any point and have it the same.
To square the axle to the frame the front of the spring hanger should be the same distance down the frame as the other one. I used the end of the frame by the tailgate as a reference point, and then double checked it with some hole in the frame that was the same on both sides.
To center the axle the spring hangers and shackle hangers should be in the same place side to side on the frame.
I also tack welded every thing pretty well then hung the springs and the axle. Then I set the weight of the truck on it. Then I rechecked the distance between the springs and once i knew it was right fully welded everything. Just make sure there is something under the truck to catch it in case a tack weld fails. I used jack stands that just touched the frame when the weight was on the axle.
Not to bash 63" chevy springs but they are rather rock anchors especially when you are backing up, because they are so long and stick out the back. Here is a link to some information on pirate4x4 about the f150 springs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=700418&page=2
Here is a few pictures of the flex and these are not with double shackles
These springs are also cheap and found in junk yards. I would run these springs but I carry a lot of weight in the rear for work and the body roll would be more than I like. So I was stuck with 51" toyota springs in the rear for stability, but it rails in turns at high speeds.
Here is a link to Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780 there is lots of info here
Hope this helps you out.
The 51" springs should be cheap. They are found on 90-95 toyota 4x4 pickups. I am not sure about the 2wds. I paid $150 for my front springs which I though was a bit high but I needed them and they were the only ones I could find at the time. I have seen them for as little as $25 a side.
I am not sure what diamater of the holes in your front hanger are. If they are the 18mm you will want to get the bushings from marlincrawler, they are the "spring bushing large" http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-bushing-large The bushings from trailgear have to large of an outside diameter and will require shaving them down.
If I remember right the stock shackle is 3.5" eye to eye, but if you end up with a lot of arch in your springs they may contact the frame when you stuff a wheel and the spring flattens out. As far as it being safe I would use 3/8 for the plates and not worry about it. Using a shorter shackle might make it flex a little less because it swings in a shorter arch, but I am not sure how much it will limit it.
Going threw the frame is best, but running the shackle hanger under the frame should work, although it may make your wheel alignment off and require a shim. If you do I would brace similar to what BLKNBLU recommended. I would make it look like a rear shackle hanger like in the below picture, but make the part where is contacts the frame longer (the top part in the picture)
Even using a rear shackle hanger would probably be strong enough. I am a little on the paranoid side, but I have also seen pictures of a rear shackle hanger that tore the frame on marlins forum. The closer you keep the tube to the bottom of the frame the closer your alignment will be, and the more contact it has with the frame the stronger it will be.
Here is a link to pirate4x4s 63" Chevy 1/2-ton spring swap FAQ!! http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10695743 he talks about placement.
The distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger along with the arch of the spring will determine the shackle angle.
The springs and axle should look like an H. The springs should be parallel and square to the axle. The axle should also be square with the frame rail. The axle should also be centered.
Basiclly if you measure from the center of one spring perch to the other. That should be the same measurement as from the center of one spring hanger to the other, and the same for the shackle hanger. This should make it so you can measure the distance between the springs at any point and have it the same.
To square the axle to the frame the front of the spring hanger should be the same distance down the frame as the other one. I used the end of the frame by the tailgate as a reference point, and then double checked it with some hole in the frame that was the same on both sides.
To center the axle the spring hangers and shackle hangers should be in the same place side to side on the frame.
I also tack welded every thing pretty well then hung the springs and the axle. Then I set the weight of the truck on it. Then I rechecked the distance between the springs and once i knew it was right fully welded everything. Just make sure there is something under the truck to catch it in case a tack weld fails. I used jack stands that just touched the frame when the weight was on the axle.
Not to bash 63" chevy springs but they are rather rock anchors especially when you are backing up, because they are so long and stick out the back. Here is a link to some information on pirate4x4 about the f150 springs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=700418&page=2
Here is a few pictures of the flex and these are not with double shackles
These springs are also cheap and found in junk yards. I would run these springs but I carry a lot of weight in the rear for work and the body roll would be more than I like. So I was stuck with 51" toyota springs in the rear for stability, but it rails in turns at high speeds.
Here is a link to Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780 there is lots of info here
Hope this helps you out.
Dec 9, 2009 | 03:14 PM
#53
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: CA
As far as flex I have never ran the 44044s but I have heard that they work well. My 51" springs max out a 14" shock. 4crawler runs 48" toyota rears and can max out 18.5" of shock with a triple shock setup, these are basicly the same as the 51" springs just a little shorter. Here is a link to his suspension page, it is a good read http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml
The 51" springs should be cheap. They are found on 90-95 toyota 4x4 pickups. I am not sure about the 2wds. I paid $150 for my front springs which I though was a bit high but I needed them and they were the only ones I could find at the time. I have seen them for as little as $25 a side.
I am not sure what diamater of the holes in your front hanger are. If they are the 18mm you will want to get the bushings from marlincrawler, they are the "spring bushing large" http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-bushing-large The bushings from trailgear have to large of an outside diameter and will require shaving them down.
If I remember right the stock shackle is 3.5" eye to eye, but if you end up with a lot of arch in your springs they may contact the frame when you stuff a wheel and the spring flattens out. As far as it being safe I would use 3/8 for the plates and not worry about it. Using a shorter shackle might make it flex a little less because it swings in a shorter arch, but I am not sure how much it will limit it.
Going threw the frame is best, but running the shackle hanger under the frame should work, although it may make your wheel alignment off and require a shim. If you do I would brace similar to what BLKNBLU recommended. I would make it look like a rear shackle hanger like in the below picture, but make the part where is contacts the frame longer (the top part in the picture)
Even using a rear shackle hanger would probably be strong enough. I am a little on the paranoid side, but I have also seen pictures of a rear shackle hanger that tore the frame on marlins forum. The closer you keep the tube to the bottom of the frame the closer your alignment will be, and the more contact it has with the frame the stronger it will be.
Here is a link to pirate4x4s 63" Chevy 1/2-ton spring swap FAQ!! http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10695743 he talks about placement.
The distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger along with the arch of the spring will determine the shackle angle.
The springs and axle should look like an H. The springs should be parallel and square to the axle. The axle should also be square with the frame rail. The axle should also be centered.
Basiclly if you measure from the center of one spring perch to the other. That should be the same measurement as from the center of one spring hanger to the other, and the same for the shackle hanger. This should make it so you can measure the distance between the springs at any point and have it the same.
To square the axle to the frame the front of the spring hanger should be the same distance down the frame as the other one. I used the end of the frame by the tailgate as a reference point, and then double checked it with some hole in the frame that was the same on both sides.
To center the axle the spring hangers and shackle hangers should be in the same place side to side on the frame.
I also tack welded every thing pretty well then hung the springs and the axle. Then I set the weight of the truck on it. Then I rechecked the distance between the springs and once i knew it was right fully welded everything. Just make sure there is something under the truck to catch it in case a tack weld fails. I used jack stands that just touched the frame when the weight was on the axle.
Not to bash 63" chevy springs but they are rather rock anchors especially when you are backing up, because they are so long and stick out the back. Here is a link to some information on pirate4x4 about the f150 springs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=700418&page=2
Here is a few pictures of the flex and these are not with double shackles
These springs are also cheap and found in junk yards. I would run these springs but I carry a lot of weight in the rear for work and the body roll would be more than I like. So I was stuck with 51" toyota springs in the rear for stability, but it rails in turns at high speeds.
Here is a link to Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780 there is lots of info here
Hope this helps you out.
The 51" springs should be cheap. They are found on 90-95 toyota 4x4 pickups. I am not sure about the 2wds. I paid $150 for my front springs which I though was a bit high but I needed them and they were the only ones I could find at the time. I have seen them for as little as $25 a side.
I am not sure what diamater of the holes in your front hanger are. If they are the 18mm you will want to get the bushings from marlincrawler, they are the "spring bushing large" http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-bushing-large The bushings from trailgear have to large of an outside diameter and will require shaving them down.
If I remember right the stock shackle is 3.5" eye to eye, but if you end up with a lot of arch in your springs they may contact the frame when you stuff a wheel and the spring flattens out. As far as it being safe I would use 3/8 for the plates and not worry about it. Using a shorter shackle might make it flex a little less because it swings in a shorter arch, but I am not sure how much it will limit it.
Going threw the frame is best, but running the shackle hanger under the frame should work, although it may make your wheel alignment off and require a shim. If you do I would brace similar to what BLKNBLU recommended. I would make it look like a rear shackle hanger like in the below picture, but make the part where is contacts the frame longer (the top part in the picture)
Even using a rear shackle hanger would probably be strong enough. I am a little on the paranoid side, but I have also seen pictures of a rear shackle hanger that tore the frame on marlins forum. The closer you keep the tube to the bottom of the frame the closer your alignment will be, and the more contact it has with the frame the stronger it will be.
Here is a link to pirate4x4s 63" Chevy 1/2-ton spring swap FAQ!! http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10695743 he talks about placement.
The distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger along with the arch of the spring will determine the shackle angle.
The springs and axle should look like an H. The springs should be parallel and square to the axle. The axle should also be square with the frame rail. The axle should also be centered.
Basiclly if you measure from the center of one spring perch to the other. That should be the same measurement as from the center of one spring hanger to the other, and the same for the shackle hanger. This should make it so you can measure the distance between the springs at any point and have it the same.
To square the axle to the frame the front of the spring hanger should be the same distance down the frame as the other one. I used the end of the frame by the tailgate as a reference point, and then double checked it with some hole in the frame that was the same on both sides.
To center the axle the spring hangers and shackle hangers should be in the same place side to side on the frame.
I also tack welded every thing pretty well then hung the springs and the axle. Then I set the weight of the truck on it. Then I rechecked the distance between the springs and once i knew it was right fully welded everything. Just make sure there is something under the truck to catch it in case a tack weld fails. I used jack stands that just touched the frame when the weight was on the axle.
Not to bash 63" chevy springs but they are rather rock anchors especially when you are backing up, because they are so long and stick out the back. Here is a link to some information on pirate4x4 about the f150 springs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=700418&page=2
Here is a few pictures of the flex and these are not with double shackles
These springs are also cheap and found in junk yards. I would run these springs but I carry a lot of weight in the rear for work and the body roll would be more than I like. So I was stuck with 51" toyota springs in the rear for stability, but it rails in turns at high speeds.
Here is a link to Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780 there is lots of info here
Hope this helps you out.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=130
What you think?
Or these are what I'm running in the rear for the chevy 63's and they would work on the front shackle hangers too I'm pretty sure.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...duct.php?id=88
As for the measurements measuring the leaf spring perches and the shackle hanger makes sense... So I got that. But I was wondering do I measure eye to eye on the chevys and transfer that to the leaf spring hanger to the shackle hanger (also eye to eye) and weld them there on the frame?
Also, I'm only going to keep the 63's and not even consider the 51" toyotas is because I have to use what I have because I'm broke as a joke and a lil in debt.. so.. lol. On top of all that college only gets in the way of working on my runner
On another note:
I've been practicing welding and I decided to use flux core with 75% argon and 25% Co2 gas and i know I'm getting good penetration but I'm not quite sure what settings I should be running my welder at? I was using it at 5 out of 10 wire speed and 4 out of 5 on the voltage setting. It gets good penetration in the frame.. but the welds dont look amazing or anything..
And yes all this is helping a lot. I think I'm going to tear my truck a part this december and weld up everything right and not have to deal with it ever again. lol. That brings up one more question. lol. I probably shouldn't weld in 33 degree weather with it just snowed on Monday and going to on Thursday huh?
Last edited by SMOD; Dec 9, 2009 at 03:22 PM.
Dec 9, 2009 | 03:54 PM
#54
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: CA
Oh and the shackle hanger diameter is the same as the rear chevy 63 shackle hangers. I have a bunch of bushings that fit the chevy type shackle hanger and it works with the 6in. shackles I got up front from MarlinCrawler. (which I will be modifying into 5in. shackles by drilling a hole. lol.) And the bushings work with the front shackle hangers. So whatever the marlincrawler 6in. shackles come with works on both front and rear shackle hangers on my runner.
Dec 11, 2009 | 03:57 PM
#56
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 535
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From: Suisun City, California
If you can bolt your shackle to it and the top is spread over the frame I think it will work. I mainly brought up the 18mm for the toyota rear springs I am not sure what people use for 44044s
Normally people run flux core wire and no gas or gas and solid wire. I don't know that running both will mater because they both surround the puddle, but I have never tried it. Also I don't see why you couldn't weld when it is 33deg, it should just cool off a little faster, though working on a truck when it is 33deg doesn't sound like much fun.
Normally people run flux core wire and no gas or gas and solid wire. I don't know that running both will mater because they both surround the puddle, but I have never tried it. Also I don't see why you couldn't weld when it is 33deg, it should just cool off a little faster, though working on a truck when it is 33deg doesn't sound like much fun.
Last edited by whokrz; Dec 11, 2009 at 03:59 PM.
Dec 14, 2009 | 12:45 PM
#57
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From: CA
If you can bolt your shackle to it and the top is spread over the frame I think it will work. I mainly brought up the 18mm for the toyota rear springs I am not sure what people use for 44044s
Normally people run flux core wire and no gas or gas and solid wire. I don't know that running both will mater because they both surround the puddle, but I have never tried it. Also I don't see why you couldn't weld when it is 33deg, it should just cool off a little faster, though working on a truck when it is 33deg doesn't sound like much fun.
Normally people run flux core wire and no gas or gas and solid wire. I don't know that running both will mater because they both surround the puddle, but I have never tried it. Also I don't see why you couldn't weld when it is 33deg, it should just cool off a little faster, though working on a truck when it is 33deg doesn't sound like much fun.
Yeah.. The flux core and gas combo works better for me because it penetrates deeper with the flux core than the solid mig wire with gas and it just makes it a little easier. There isn't too much clean up at all either.
33 degrees is so much fun to weld in. lol. I only asked that because I know that welding on wet surfaces is a no no and I though in the cold it may not bond properly.. But I've asked around and recieved the same answer you gave me.
Thanks
Whokrz
Dec 15, 2009 | 08:11 AM
#58
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Can anyone answer these Q's? Thanks
I was wondering do I measure eye to eye on the chevy 63in leaf springs and transfer that to the leaf spring hanger to the shackle hanger (also eye to eye) and weld them there on the frame?
I've been practicing welding and I decided to use flux core with 75% argon and 25% Co2 gas and i know I'm getting good penetration but I'm not quite sure what settings I should be running my welder at? I was using it at 5 out of 10 wire speed and 4 out of 5 on the voltage setting. It gets good penetration in the frame.. but the welds dont look amazing or anything..
I was wondering do I measure eye to eye on the chevy 63in leaf springs and transfer that to the leaf spring hanger to the shackle hanger (also eye to eye) and weld them there on the frame?
I've been practicing welding and I decided to use flux core with 75% argon and 25% Co2 gas and i know I'm getting good penetration but I'm not quite sure what settings I should be running my welder at? I was using it at 5 out of 10 wire speed and 4 out of 5 on the voltage setting. It gets good penetration in the frame.. but the welds dont look amazing or anything..
Dec 15, 2009 | 05:15 PM
#59
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From: Suisun City, California
My guess would be measure eye to eye on the spring then subtract about 2-3". That should give you the distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger, which hopefully will give you a decent shackle angle. With a flat leaf pack if you measure eye to eye and don't subtract I would think your shackle angle would be just about straight up and down.
Dec 15, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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My guess would be measure eye to eye on the spring then subtract about 2-3". That should give you the distance between the spring hanger and the shackle hanger, which hopefully will give you a decent shackle angle. With a flat leaf pack if you measure eye to eye and don't subtract I would think your shackle angle would be just about straight up and down.
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