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Difference in Toyota Solid Axles

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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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Difference in Toyota Solid Axles

first off, search completed. found : nothing.

What are the differences in all the solid front axles that toyota has built.. which is the most desirable? Does it really matter(once you upgrade everything). What's the different widths. Is high pinion only dealing with the 3rd member, or is there a different in the housing too??(can you take a non HP axle and get a HP 3rd and put it in?). What's the difference between old land crusher axles vs truck/runner axles? Are all parts interchangeable? IE Axles, carriers, 3rd's, hubs, etc etc.

Also, what about the rear?
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:51 PM
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thats a lot of questiong, but you need to tell us more spefically what you are looking to do.

SAS obviously, but Coils? Leafs? 3link, 4 link, 5 link? Hardcore? Show truck?

FJ-40 and 60 axles are 8.8" diffs. Not usable in truck housings.

FJ-80 front axles use a high pinion 8" carrier/diff assy, and will fit in any Toyota truck, 4runner, or 80-series landcruiser housing.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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84 and 85 in the pickups and 4runners had more gussetings on the sfa than the other years. up to 83 they lack the strength of the later axles
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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and 79 to 81 have no gussets and 82 and 83 have medium lower gusseting.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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oh and to answer your questions lol. they all are the same width and that is 55 inches WMS to WMS but the SAS kits come with wheel spacers to match the rear of IFS rigs. Strengh is proportionate to the gussets and the HP is just a third member. they came on FJ 80s
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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youve got to be able to find it in search. Deathcougar is right with his info. search SAS. 84-85 has a bigger lower truss. the older have one but its smaller length wise. a fj80 with high pinion is desirable also cause its wided and the high pinion of a 8" third will fit right into all years pickup and 4runner solid front axles. its not a difference in the housing
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:29 AM
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Some people actually prefer the earlier axles with no gusset on the bottom for the increase in ground clearance
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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You can always aftermarket gusset to your liking as well (Tons of write ups on that) IMHO If you are gonna wheel hard at least a top gusset is a must! Otherwise you are looking at axle bend-age...

C clip failed probably due to Axle housing stress. Lost my Wheel and shaft at 45 miles per hour....


BAD Axle shaft! (Splines totally stripped....


Look how bent the housing was once we got it out of there!


All the dirt on the issue that's fit to print here!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-ride-113260/

Obviously if you wheel hard with a stock Yota axle you really ought to have some kind of gusseting. Don't learn the hard way like I did!
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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She says c-clip ... she means pressed on bearing. The point being, that if you're gonna wheel it hard (and if you're not, don't waste the money on a SAS) then it needs to be braced and converted to full float.

Most of the answers to your questions are here
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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Sorry my Bad. Clips are in the front with the hubs DUH! Since I didn't have a full float I wouldn't have a clip! Schooled again by my better half!
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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I would say you definitely need a sas.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Lysmachia
Sorry my Bad. Clips are in the front with the hubs DUH! Since I didn't have a full float I wouldn't have a clip! Schooled again by my better half!
You're actually right. There is a C-clip that holds on a retaining collar, that holds the bearing in place. If that c-clip comes off, the collar can back out, and the bearing wil be right behind it.

So NAH NAH NAH tc!
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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No, that's a snap ring, not a c-clip
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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All i can say is great job on guiding that to the curb!
Oh and glad nobody was hurt
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Troy (TC) was the driver and he did a hella job. The Tire bounded down a 4 lane main road in front of us, then bounced over my hood and into a new car dealership. Miraculously no other car was hit!!!!
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
No, that's a snap ring, not a c-clip
its a C-shaped clip!



THATS a snap-ring!

Lolol we both are right.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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What the heck did you do that axle?



I dont think I would drive on a public street like that....for dee safety reasons
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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Well we had no idea it was THAT bent till we took it out. You can't see a bend like that till you can stand over it! (From the side it looks straight!)

I have a feeling stunts like this is what did it...









ALL that shifted weight on the driver side probably bent the axle over time... I just never was able to see it. Needless to say my new axle will be gusseted more when I work on tippy's exo...
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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WOW, thankyou all for all your posts. I've been busy the past day or so, so i just now checked this thread(been busy playing w/ my welder, hehe ). Thankyou all for the info, i didn't think i get this many people to respond.

Deathcougar, to answer your question. I'd like to do coil overs with a 4 link (front and rear). I've been reading up on the stuff, and i've got a 4 link calculator(that i got from pirate), um... I've still gotta work out what exactly i want to do, but that's probably it. I would do leafs, but i just... i can't bring myself to it.... duno why. 3 link.. no thanks.

I would gusset it most definitely, i'll gusset both front and rear; once i'm good enough at welding that is. My sbc 350 will go in, then gusset the rear, then the front comes a few months after and it'll get gusseted(is that correct grammar?). Then again, i may do a winch b4 i do the front.. I've learned the importance of strengthening a SFA with my old dodge, i went jumping and well... Bendy Mendy decided to pay a visit...

TC, to answer your question. I beat the ever living fudge out of my vehicles. Every vehicle i've owned i've beat to hell and back. My offroad vehicles, even worse. I need all the strength i can get. However, all i hear is that toy axles can be built hella strong, so i've not really worried too much, now you're speaking of full floating conversions..... Is the full floating conversion really worth that extra grand+ per axle, strength wise? Or would i be better off just going to a larger axle(D60)? I already plan on doing different carriers, gears, and chrome moly axles.... Is that FF really gonna do that much more for the $$$ spent? BTW, i'll only be running 38 IROK's... or maybe 42 Boggers(still undecided), spool rear end, and locker up front.

Another question. I now understand the difference between the FJ 40's, 60's, 80's. Yall said the 80's fit everything, and they're better(obviously this is a no-brainer as to which is most desirable). So here's another question, did they come in 4 runners, trucks, and land crushers? Which years. I'm assuming land crushers only cuz of the size. I don't really mind what year, just as long as it's a fj80, i'll gusset it myself.

Most Toy axles are pass side drop, correct?

Lysmachia, that sucks to see what happened to your rig. GJ TC on keeping it under control.

lolol c-clip, snap ring, c-lip, snap ring, c-clip, BAHH!!
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 08:10 PM
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If you're that hard on vehicles, just do 60's or a 9" and be done with it.

Toy axles are strong for what they are and for lighter trucks running "smallish" tires, but even built, they don't hold a candle to a 60.
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