x2 on TC's post.

Why on earth would you waste time on Toyota axles for that kind of punishment?

There are only a couple reasons to run toy axles.

1. Keep everything toyota, so trail spares and the like are easy.
2. Leaf spring swap.

Since you are going coil and all that, DO NOT put money into toyota anything. Get 60's, cromoly, and lock em up.

 

*woah* molly, tippy must have either been having the time of her life, or cussing you out in japanese for making her do that! hows the 3.4 swap BTW? and to the OP: DANA 60. thats all im gonna say.

 

Well how do you think TIPPY got her name? Her sliders are DA bomb! We've got the engine.. getting the rest of the parts collected now (should have it all by this weekend) Then it's time to begin TEAM TIPPY SWAP. I'd really like to have it done by early May so I can go Run "Patriot" in Colo-springs. But we'll see!

Oh and to the OP: Full Float doesn't make the axle stronger per say, it just makes it so that each shaft is held in by a c-clip rather than as troy referenced a pressed on bearing. Additionally if you grenade your rear 3rd you can unlock the rear hubs, and get off the trail using front wheel drive. So THAT is the real advantage. I would have surely gone full float if I had - had the money, but I didn't. So next time!

 

Wellllll .... the PARTS of a FF axle aren't any stronger than those of a semi-float, but the way they work results in a stronger, more damage tolerant assembly.

What full-float means is that the weight of the truck is supported totally by the bearings. On a semifloat the truck, the weight is partly supported by the axle shaft. Since the axle shaft in a FF axle only bears the torque, it is stronger. If you break an axle shaft, the wheels are still held on by the bearings/spindles, so you just drive out no biggie. You can change the axle shaft without even removing the tire, as it just slides out, and a new one slides in.

If you really NEED a SFA because you wheel hard, then you definitely need a FF rear axle IMHO, or an incident like we had may be in your future. If that had happened on a trail, we would have had a VERY difficult time getting off the trail.

 

mm, very true, didn't think about that part of FF. I COMPLETELY forgot the fact that the axle can just fly/slide/pop(choose your word) out when it breaks vs staying put.. thanks for reminding me of that, i'd of never taken it into consideration otherwise.

Dana 60's...

i love my money pit. rofl.

Maybe i just need to get some brains and learn how to drive nicer?? ya.. That'd prolly help. Afterall, i have a runner, not a

 

I am building a truck from the ground up
Here are the donor trucks
1968 Toyota FJ40
Drive train but not the motor or trans
1989 Toyota one ton 2wd
22re this is where I get all the power and comforts A/C, power steering and trans mission
1966 Toyota stout
for the frame and body.
I am wondering about the running gear I will do a three link and a panhard bar on the front, 4 link and panhard, unsure if I do coil overs or bags, this will not be a wheeler. A weekend warrior and simi daily driver. Just a cool truck that I can love to drive and do some yard work with. Using the fj 40 axles and a 80s 5 speed and transfer case will it be a problem with the off set diff and transmission out put being centered? Unless I find another truck these are the parts I have to work with.

 

I've got an 85 Toyota pickup base model fuel injection with straight axle and I'm trying to replace my front axle knuckle dust seal and my spindle nuts,spacer,and locking ring and I have found a kit for a landcruser same year model and I was wondering if they were compatible?

 

I have a 89 4runner I want to know if a 83 toyota pickup solid axle with fit on my car

 

Yep....I am almost sure they are.

 

posted to wrong thread

 

.....

 

So Ive built a buggy with Toyota axles (Kawasaki Teryx) and the output shafts spins opposite of a truck so I had to run it In reverse. Well got tired of not having high and low, with a little cutting some welding and fabrication I flipped the 3rd member. Im running a 800cc motor with 46hp 4:10 gears and 42” v-tread tires it pulls amazing but I shredded my ring gear. Not sure if its from riding on the weak side of the gears or possibly it’s just to much for the axles? But could I theoretically run the fj80 3rd member in my front and rear end so that they are both high pinion reverse cut and then be running on the strong side of the gears? Or could I put the fj80 ring and pinion in my 3rd member I have now which is the 4cyl 8” out of a 83 (front and rear)

 

42" tires exceeds the limits of the 8". Even 40 " is too large for serious use with 8". I have a local customer as a test case for 40" tires and 8" ring/pinions and 40's just went past the limits. Seems ok with 38" thou.
FJ60's have 9.5" 3rds front and rear. Maybe that will work for you.