about to start my SAS on my 1991 standard cab pickup with a 22re. gathering all parts and info. have a 84-85 axle with an open 5.29 diff. putting the rear leaf springs up front and 63" in the back. six shooter knuckles with ifs hubs. using the TG ifs eliminator kit. still have a bunch of questions that i cannot find the answers to. a lot of the YT videos show the process but refuse to show actual results or give definitive answers or info. they just make videos for content, not information.
but anyways...
63" leaf springs in the rear, how many inches of lift do they provide with 2 springs plus the helper spring? i've seen videos with 2 springs, with 3 springs up to 5 springs. who has actual results?

rears up front. has anyone done this? what are the results? suppose to move the axle forward 2"? true? pros and cons? good for a 4 cyl? still good flex? how much lift? should i just use the springs that come with TG kit?

ifs hubs with 6 shooters. why do one set of mounting ears need to be removed? i've read that they need to be but no one says "why". anyone have pics of before and after? installed pics?

as soon as i can start posting pics, i will.
can't think of a better place to get the proper answers. thank you in advance!

still have a bunch more questions but let's start with these for now.

 

I used the TG kit on my 88, my son's 91 and a 93. I run Chevy rear springs on my 88 and the TG springs up front. I will give you my OPINION based on MY results and you can go with your gut on your build. I answered your 6 shooter knuckle question on your other thread.

The advantage of you using the Chevy rear springs with the RUF is that they are both a pretty even match for lift. The problem I think you will find is that you might not get enough lift if you want to run large tires.

I ran the Chevy rears on my 88 because it had short stiff stock springs and I put them on when I still had IFS so the non lift wasn't a problem. They take a while to get dialed in. I tried several different combinations of leaves before I got it right. I ended up putting more arch in them in a press later on when I did my SAS. That's a whole thread in itself.

Your 91 has longer rear leaves from the factory. My son just ended up putting some All Pro rear lift springs to match the TG 4" front springs from the kit. The TG springs are fine, he just happened to buy a used set from a friend. With these lift springs his truck easily cleared 35's and flexed great. Both of us wheeled the hell out of our trucks since about 2011 and the springs have lasted. We DID install bump stops.

I had chosen to put the TG 3" springs up front and I should have gone with the 4" like my son did. They were slightly longer and flexed better. The TG springs will move your axle forward some. I don't remember how far. Don't fully weld your front spring hanger until you are happy with the position. Just heavy tacks in case you have to cut them and move the hanger fore or back.

The instructions (back then anyway) said to "CENTER" the rear spring hanger tubes between the cab mount ears. DON'T do that. Push them as far forward as you can between the cab mount ears. You will end up with a much better shackle angle. It's going to ride high for a while. It will settle.

Unless you are broke, I really recommend just getting the new springs in the lift that you want. The RUF and Chevy's take a lot of experimenting with different leaf packs to get dialed in. Plus they do not really give much lift. Unless that's your goal.

I found that ordering my TG springs from Summit Racing was the least expensive. They price match and the oversize shipping was only $10 or something cheap. I don't know how much now though. Even Amazon sells TG stuff. Hell I bought tires off Amazon. Free Prime shipping.

I hope I answered your questions. PM me if you want. Good luck with your build.

 

I couldn't of asked for a better response. Without going into detail, I understand everything you just said. Thank you so much. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​F'n legend!

 

A way I found to flex my suspension for testing during the build is to rig a chain come-along from the bumper, under the axle and up to hook to the shock tower or frame. I could ratchet that suspension as far as needed and it would hold. That's how I accurately positioned shock hoops and shocks and bump stops to stop the travel where I wanted. You can even check the drive shaft travel. Kind of like a manual suck down winch. I guess you could rig your winch?? Just some food for thought.

 

Thank you. I have a come along. Will try that.

 

i have the axle built and under the truck with tires on. springs attatched. no steering hooked up. noticing that the top of the tires are angled inward about 3/4". negative camber. is this normal until the new springs settle? or until i get the high steer hooked up? or the axle is bent? its a 84 solid axle. did the TG kit with 3" springs. put a level to the rear tires and then to the front and the offset is equal on both sides. all tire pressures are equal. i realize that camber isnt really a thing on solid axles but im stumped.

 

I never checked mine but I never "noticed" my tires leaning in. It's not something that's adjustable. Almost sounds like a bent axle but both sides equally?? If it's bent it's usually very difficult to get the Birfs in and out. I hope you don't have a bent housing after all your work. Did you weld on the housing?

 

All welding was done by previous owner. Passenger side birf was mostly OK putting in. Driver side was a pain. Went in but only after several wacks with a dead blow. New 6 shooter knuckles. All new bearings and the likes. New longfields. Haven't even run it yet.
doing all this research is leading me to believe it's a Bent housing.

 

Any updates? Find another housing?

 

Just going to run it. Wouldn't trust another used housing. If I get a new one like the rock assault then I would have to buy new solid axle hubs because the new one is already ifs width. Or, use my ifs hubs but then put 1.5" wheel spacers in the back which I don't like.
Going to mess with pinion angle and see if that helps with negative camber. Someone told me to check the perches and make sure they were level and i found out the driver side perch with the spacer pad may have been rotated and replaced by PO. They are not clocked the same.
theoretically they should be level (level to each other respectively) and the same height, correct?

 

Sounds like your housing is a mess. Sorry man, that sucks. I have a set of 85 hubs. I swapped to IFS hubs. I'm near Tucson though. I actually have an 85 straight axle in my 88 that I will be eventually be parting out or selling whole. My SAS'd 88 sadly became the donor for my linked 86 Xtra Cab build. I bought another used 85 axle because I originally planned on selling my 88 as a roller. Not sure that plan is going to work because I took the high steer for my 86. Ain't rolling without steering arms and I don't want to put money into a truck I'm not keeping. I just sold the wheels and 35's so it definitely isn't a roller now. Too bad you're not closer or you could check them out.

Changing pinion angle will affect caster, not camber. Unless I'm not understanding.

Good luck with your build.

 

Can you un bend it? Little heat and a jack can go along way.

 

So how's your build going? Any updates?