1990 2door 4runner SAS slow build
#102
Well while i was sitting under the rig picking away at the rust and what not i started thinking about how to mount my shocks. Seeing as how this is my daily driver id like to keep the ride quality decent lol so i figured id mount them like this I I instead of /\ also i have limited space under there and from what ive read mounting the shocks /\ that way makes the ride garbage anyways heres what im talking about, mind you its just hanging there lol
I also painted the rusty parts


I also painted the rusty parts



#107
Update
So i finally got my AAL's today and threw em on my hybrid pack and guess what!?

They helped bring up the rear enough so it doesnt look like its taking off lol and thejack stand isnt doing anything in case you were wondering haha

and lastly my rear upper shock mounts welded on ya ya there not pretty lol

Thats it for now
So i finally got my AAL's today and threw em on my hybrid pack and guess what!?

They helped bring up the rear enough so it doesnt look like its taking off lol and thejack stand isnt doing anything in case you were wondering haha

and lastly my rear upper shock mounts welded on ya ya there not pretty lol

Thats it for now
#113
Not much progress on the rig still painting the frame and axle also have the diff out since my little bro just ordered me a Spartan looks like i owe him a xbox one lol
But i did make some progress on the front driveshaft. So what my old man and I decided to do was chop up my old automatic driveshaft, shorten it, use the pinion flange from the double cardan, cut the slip yoke portion at the base and weld that to the double cardan flange and well pictures speak louder than words....


Cost me nothing, thats at ride height, held tpgether by tack welds, turns freely/no binding and yes its ugly lol
But i did make some progress on the front driveshaft. So what my old man and I decided to do was chop up my old automatic driveshaft, shorten it, use the pinion flange from the double cardan, cut the slip yoke portion at the base and weld that to the double cardan flange and well pictures speak louder than words....


Cost me nothing, thats at ride height, held tpgether by tack welds, turns freely/no binding and yes its ugly lol
#116
I know it's best to have the pinions facing up towards the transfer case but for me to cut off the perches and shock mounts on the front axle and rotate it up like the rear axle is now is troublesome plus the truck is part time 4wd so i can leave it in 2wd with the hubs unlocked and not worry about the front spinning so I'll live with it until i get fed up and I've seen worse lol
Sent from my moon base.
Sent from my moon base.
#117
If you rotate your front axle up to point to the transfer case it screws up the steering and toe in. If its a trail rig only this may not be an issue. If anything shorten the shackle by 1 inch or so.
#118
#119
ideally you cut and rotate the housing, which means that the front end alignment is not changed from stock... the truck goes down the road just like it did before.
as it sits now, you should use the protractor to confirm that 1)the flanges are parallel, and 2)the driveshaft angle isn't too steep for the ujoints.
if they are out of spec, the fix for both is a double cardan(cv) driveshaft.
here is a link for more info:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml
as it sits now, you should use the protractor to confirm that 1)the flanges are parallel, and 2)the driveshaft angle isn't too steep for the ujoints.
if they are out of spec, the fix for both is a double cardan(cv) driveshaft.
here is a link for more info:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml
Last edited by osv; Nov 12, 2013 at 10:01 AM.






