Cory's Runner is in need of a front axle transplant. Here's my plan for doing it cheap:

Front axle: laying under boat in yard - free
Springs: stock Toyota rears + other stuff - free
Shock hoops: sitting in my garage - make offer ($70 retail)
Front hanger: Marlin - $85
Bump Stops: if you can't fab bump stops, you suck - free
Shocks: Bilstein - $150
Steering arms: with kit, Marlin - $400
Drag link: with kit
Tie Rod: with kit
Pitman arm: with kit
U-bolts: flip kit, in garage - make offer ($50 retail)
Shackle: boomerang from Sky - $60
3rd member: Geared and locked - $$$
Truss (optional): Marlin - $25
Diff armor (optional): Marlin - $25
Front axle rebuild kit WITH WHEEL BEARINGS: Marlin - $145
Widen axle?: IFS hubs?, Spacers?
Driveshaft: Square - $50
Steering Studs (optional): ARP - $90
Reinforce steering stops: steel and welding - free
Box motor mounts: free

Total: $1010 ($1150 w/ options) + 3rd and widening costs.

That's basic cost. Now there's some vehicle specifics to consider.

If building on 87 frame:
Shackle mount: Marlin - $40

If on 85 frame:
IFS rear axle: ?
IFS steering box: ?
IFS box mount kit: Marlin - $20
Use stock rock anchor u-bolts: (-$50)
Start over on rear suspension: $$$

 

We'll I'd say keep the 87 frame... its already under there.... plus i dont need to lift the rear, and if i do its cheap... now the only problem is paying for this stuff and downtime....

I'd imagine, i'll just start collecting stuff and go from there.

I have the SFA (out of an 84 or 85) so we are good on that.
IFS box is a check.
Whos got some springs? I think I might have some saggy ones... maybe we should look at some yard replacements (any ideas? non toyota).

 

There's a build on the first couple pages of Pirate today that has a guy using CJ leaves on his front. Only lifts ~2.5" though. But if we combine that with longer shackles and a dropped hanger we can get 3.5" total, which would be about perfect.

What're you looking for for height? Keep it how it is, lower, higher?

Yota rears up front will give about 5" I think, it really depends on how you build the pack. I think I have most of the set (including the main leaves, which are the important ones) off your brothers truck. The other leaves can be off anything of the same width. A lot of people use springs off a Mazda pickup. It may be good to find someone running a custom pack and just replicate theirs to begin with. We can then tune it in for your rig as we go from there.

Starting time is the bitch. Figure you'll wait till after the Disney trip in November at least. But with the Buick in the garage do you really want to be wrenching in the winter? So spring? Give you lots of time to try and accumulate used parts to cut the $. Hell, there's a goal. Have the Buick driving by spring and then start ÅÅÅÅing with the Toy. I'd shoot for a maximum down time of 2 months. Some people do this stuff in a weekend, but we ain't that good. And we get distracted too easily. And you'll keep running to the store to buy ÅÅÅÅ.

 

Buick may be out of the garage in about a month. But if it goes, so does a lot of money with it.

IIRC, I have a bunch of toyota rear spring packs off of various trucks... we can always throw something together....

 

I'm also thinking if i do this, I need to go back to 4.10s in the axles, and just 4.7 the t-case to compensate.

also, in doing this, i can sell the lift, plus the front locker for some $$$

 

Sounds like quite the project. I wanna come!

 

SURE!!! the more the merrier

 

The final goal is SFA, lifted for 38"s (with major trimming i.e. little lift as necessary) and V8 power from a roller 302 HO EFI

 

awesome. If there's anything you want me to look for down here in Fay-town, lemme know. i can check the few yards we have around here and such if need be. Oh, and my time off request was approved for the 27th and 28th. Can't wait!

 

sweet man! i'll let ya know if i need some parts...

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=319319&page=7

That truck has Marlin's 4" springs, hanger, and shackles. He's estimating around 6" of lift from that combo, which seems right to me. I think my suspenion is 3", along with 3" of body. Those pics on page 7 are with 38" SX's. I didn't see that he's done any firewall tubbing.... so I definitely think 4" and some sheetmetal work will get 38's (Though SX's are notoriously small, 38's are probably about the same as my 36" IROKs). I KNOW I can take 2" out of my truck and still run the 36 IROKs.

If I didn't have dialup I'd find a lot more pretty pics to look at. Everyone does 35-36s with 4-6" lifts so I don't see an issue with 4" and 38's while getting creative. You need at least 3" suspension to get the bolt on high steer kits to work. 3" suspension and 1" body to help clear the new drivetrain?

 

Sounds about right... i was thinking 1" body to help with the new drivetrain, then the bare minimum on suspension for the highsteer and tire fitment

 

Rears up front, relocated steering box (to move the axle further forward), and tires that measure over 38" tall. So they're 39's or 40's? Ok...here's the answer "Those michhelins were the same height as my buddies 39.5 TSL's."
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=435956

6-7" of suspension with 38.5's.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...4runner+flange

6" AllPro springs and 37's. Definitely too high.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=419779&page=5

5" AllPro springs with typical hanger. Pics of truck with 36->38->39.5" tires. 38's run without tubbing, 39.5's require tubbing firewall.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227069

MONEY SHOT! 3" lift with 38's. Buy some CJ7 rears! Basically that's set up like my truck w/o the body lift.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=388273

 

Heres what I think... bout 3" of lift, just enough for highsteer, 1" body (more room for the V8), and then check the tires... if its not enough cut more until you run into big problems, then just shim the suspension up til your good.

 

Yup...
We'll go all out on the build. Plan to move the steering box forward 2", that will give us more room to push the axle forward. Then we'll put the axle as far forward as that will allow. May want to think about steering arms and pitman arms as well. The shorter arms will allow more clearance. Tub the rest. And if we run out of room (most people only cut back to the cab mount) we'll knock the suspension up another inch.

But I'm thinking 3" suspension and 1" body lift will clear 38's no problem. Then just intall the bump stops so thetierod doesn't get wrapped around the frame during compression.

If you find out you need to go with a 2" body lift to clear the powertrain we'll just bump you up to 40's.

 

1" on the body will take care of the drivetrain.

 

And allow for a flat belly? If not we can tub the tunnel too.

Your trucks going to rock when it's finished.

 

Thats the plan.... now the long process of getting everything together... I guess we'll see what timeline we are looking at after the quote on the buick this weekend.

 

Post pics of the donor car.

 

The donor car was a piece, so i didnt buy it....