Hi,

I heard a crack when I shifted into first and the clutch no longer engages.

I looked at it and it seems the red firewall painted metal cracked an no longer holds the clutch housing? in place?

Attached are pics, but is there a way to replace the housing with a larger one that encompasses a larger space across the housing?

I'm not sure I'm using the correct words, but attached pics show the crack as viewed from the engine.

Essentially, the clutch is fine, but it no longer engages because what held it together at the junction between cab and engine area seems to have cracked and no longer allows the clutch to engage

 

That is incredibly unfortunate. To do it right would be to strip everything out, cut out around the broken steel, and weld in a new mounting plate. There's probably half assed ways to get around that, but nothing is going to be easy. Sorry man, that one is a huge bummer.

 

Thanks moto809,

Just dropped it off and they said they'd prob put plates on bithsboth sides in a larger format to cover and bolt it all back together.

After seeing the thin sheet metal that is cracked, I'm quite impressed how long it's lasted!

I'll follow up w fix pics!

 

Id rather plate it than weld it. Welding thin sheet is a difficult job and your basically relying on some guys ability.
with plates, you know metal is metal.

 

So I got a new black painted clutch bracket, a solid plate on the engine side, hooked it all back up even without the spring and it engages again no prob.

The clutch rod was a tight fit to get onto the the pedal so it's putting a tiny bit of pressure on the clutch I believe.

I'm not going to drive it yet. I am going to cut the rod so that there is that bit of play to let the pedal hang and Ive abandoned the original spring and am just going to get one of those little #70 or whatnot I've read is good, to keep any gravity weight off the clutch too.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...#post-15590546

My question is, can I cut the rod shorter so it has more play after I've clamped it down w the plates and all?

I'll saw it off so it's a shorter rod and won't be pushing on the mc.

Add the simple spring and good to go?

 

IIRC, the rod screws in and out to be adjusted. If it screwed all the way in and is still too long then it sounds like you need to shorten it.

If it were me, Id take my smallest power tool, a dremel and grind the end down.

But to take a step back, if you have a plate now, your MC should be further away from its original position so I would imagine the rod would need to be extended from stock. So strictly theoretically, I dont see why you should need to cut it. It should be adjustable to where you need it. But obviously, you have the truck in front of you and I dont.

 

Also, what MC did they put in? All the aisin ones ive seen are unpainted.

I know they just put it in but Ive had so many aftermarket MCs take a crap, Id toss it and replace it before you start driving. Just a suggestion from my own troubles...

 

Unfortunately not a totally uncommon problem. The firewall Metal is thin and the repeated pressure from depressing the clutch pedal takes a toll over time and weakens the metal.
Toyota recognized this and used to sell a plate to reinforce the area.
I don’t think it’s available any longer but I believe it was part #55113-34010

 

At least the pic is a good template to go off of. This is probably something all t100s will need eventually

 

Who knows.......maybe still available.
Best to confirm this is the bracket to reinforce the firewall.
Give these guys a call as they have been able to get me parts that no other dealer could.
Conicelli Toyota is in PA and they have a very competitive online parts business.
The guys in the parts department (Landon & Derek) are always very helpful.

 

Thanks for all the help w this!

So I got the new black clutch pedal assembly bracket installed and when I try the clutch over and over, it starts strong and regular, but as I keep depressing it repeatedly, it seems to begin to lose compression at the early pressing and the compression begins to start a lower point in the pressing of the clutch pedal. I am doing this with the truck off, if that may matter.

I think the angle of the rod from the assembly to the master cylinder might not be exact angle because if almost feels like it needs grease to lube the rod through the firewall or into the mc.

Would anyone know or have exp or suggestion as to what I should do next because it feels like it will seize or bust off the mc if I just keep repeating the clutch depressions.

Thank you!!!!

 

Found a Yota shop in Denver, The Toy Shop, that has experience fixing this exact issue, so I've got an appointment and will report back w how it feels to get back on the road in my T100.

https://www.thetoyshopdenver.com/

Thank you all for the pointers, I ordered the official repair plate detailed above, by Sarky, and will deliver it w my truck.