Hey Ray,
I hope your're not saying what I think your're not saying
Do I have 2 bad relays?
I checked another relay that I got with the backup light kit. When I put probe on tab 85 and the other probe on 86 (this one is mapped) I do get like 83 on the meter set on 20.
Any other checks I can do?
Let me know so I can call up the company where I bought it and return it, hopefully
Hump

 

Oh no, Mike. If relay clicks and contacts close ​when u apply 9V ​​​​​​those are good. I'm just puzzled at coil resistance reading and what "1" means, not knowing ur meter.
Perhaps there's a diode across the coil to suppress counter-emf (but that's a long story). Try reading across coil with probes switched?

 

Ray, I poped 1 open, here's the guts:





Does this help?
When I put my meter probe to each side of the coil posts (pic 1) I get 89 on my meter when it's set on 20 ohms
Hump

 

What reading do you get when you touch the probes in the same spot, but on the 200 ohm and 2000* ohm settings on the Cen-tech meter?

Like Ray, I am pretty certain the relays are fine, but I am curious.

*Edit: oops I meant 2000 instead of 1000.

 

Touching both probes in the same spot
200 ohms = .5 that's on both sides of the coil wire posts
2000 ohms = 001 Don't have 1000 ohms on the meter.

 

Looks like continuity through the diode (with blue stripe)

And when u reverse the probes?

 

Same thing, both ways
Oh, so that's a diode ........

 

Well, did some more cleaning today Cleaned the engine bay fuse block and harness. looks nice and clean now. I believe the wire that comes off that fuse block and goes to the battery is a fusible link wire (see pic) I think I'm going to replace it with a new red fusible link wire and clean up the connection.


I also traced a lot of my deleted smog wires, not sure yet if I want to open up the harness's and pull the wires or just leave them be. I'd reall like to get rid of all the wires I don't need in the engine bay and clean it all up
Here's a pick of the cleaned fuse block.

I have a cover, albeit broken I would buy one but they want to much on ebay. I'll probably just stick a new decal on it and call it done.
On to the next harness.

 

If anyone needs to know where the wires from a ECC on a 1984 4wd Toyota pickup go, here is a crude sketch. I did my best to describe the plugs and where they are located,

Plug

Crude sketch
DS = drivers side
Dummy plug = a plug that I have on the drivers side that had a rubber cap on it attached to the fender wall.(who knows what it's for)
Maybe someone has a need to know

 

I think this will be on my shopping list

 

How would I check it to see if it still functions? It's to stabilize the signal to the coil.
What is it called? I've seen it called, resistor, diode, relay, capacitor, .. yeah, google is your friend, just pick an answer....any answer................doesn't make it the "right" answer!


Thanks

 

That crimp from 1 white wire to 3 wires is factory. In our next gen, there is an 80-Amp fl MODULE (Like a fuse) inline with that (HERE)
No sure IF the black wire is the factory fusible link wire. "Common rule" for replacement is 4 gauges smaller than that white wire, so I would find out what gage the white wire is, then buy appropriate size FL wire. Got mine from Summit Racing.

1986 22R-E, 5-SPEED, DLX, ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BLOCK HERE:
https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/...lDMngzdjhiaWlR

 

Not labeled clearly but I think that's just a capacitor/condenser to suppress radio frequency interference from the ignition - so your radio doesn't doesn't like a lawn mower when when you step on gas

 

Hey Ray
So your sure it's a fusible link wire? Why would they have a fusible link wire connecting to fusible link fuses?
So your talking about the white wire that's crimped two the 2 red wires for the size of the fusible link wire? What about the 2 red wires?
Anyway, I'll do as you say I'll replace it with a new fusible link wire 4 gauges smaller.

 

So, is there a way to check it?

 

Ok, now I get it. The white wire coming out is not the fusible link wire, the black wire on the end of it is the fusible link wire.
Seems the white wire is 8 gauge so I will go with 12 gauge for my new fusible link wire.
Thanks
Hump

 

Yup,
You can see on the 85 and later schematic there is the main FL "wire", then the splice to 3 wires, then one of those wires go to the FL "module" which yours does not have.


You also want to use the parallel crimp splice, not butt-splice. In case it's hard to find the "parallel" crimp splice barrel, you could re-purpose the "barrel" of a ring terminal like I did...


For connections near battery acid, I crimp, fill voids with solder, then waterproof and insulate. I use 80-watt soldering iron for thick wires.

 

Ok,
I cut the white wire near the "butt splice that PO had" Seems the white wire is only 10 gauge wire, its .1019 dia bare wire size, is there another way to determine what gauge it is? Your diagram shows 6 gauge wire going to a 10 gauge fusible link wire, Why such a big difference in wire sizes from mine to yours?
So if I have to splice in a fusible link based on mine being a 10 gauge wire I would need a 14 gauge fusible link, correct? The black wire that was "but spliced in was a 12 gauge wire, .0808 bare wire dia.
What does FL Main 2.0L mean? Does it have anything to do with the size of the wire?
Many questions form this newbie
Hump

 

Sorry, Mike, Pic is of my upgraded batt to alt wire, just to illustrate how to improvise a parallel crimp comnector.
AWG seems right. You could be more exact if we cud find chart for AWG using measuement of ndividual strands.

 

Here
https://www.calmont.com/wp-content/u...wire-gauge.pdf

And another
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wir...uge-chart.html