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And all these wires above are electrically connected?
And all these wires above are electrically connected?
And they connect to ONE side of the charge fuse?
And there is no yellow wire that connects to the other pin of CLR socket?
Then there should be a Totally Separate wire from the other side of charge fuse to Alt.
Hard to see words. Diagram is better.
Best to erase all the wires on the schematic, and replace with actual wires thay you have traced. Thats how we come up with the wiring diagram. Better done on computer OR paper than on smartphone.
And all these wires above are electrically connected? YES They will be once I insert the Charge lamp Relay into the socket. Which I believe will complete the circuit for the dash board charge light and give me the power for the backup and 4wd switches once I get the harness attached
And they connect to ONE side of the charge fuse? YES
And there is no yellow wire that connects to the other pin of CLR socket? 4 wires off the CLR R,W-B,Y-B, and Y
Then there should be a Totally Separate wire from the other side of charge fuse to Alt. THERE IS (see above, previous post)
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 01-19-2019 at 02:12 PM.
Hi Mike,
Here's how to test the CLR. Make sure you do resistance checks with no power to any point you are probing.
Test Y-B to make sure there is no continuity between W-B and R or Y, and between W-B and R or Y.
Then, when testing with power applied to R and Y OK to test for resistance an W-B and Y-B.
Hi Mike,
Here's how to test the CLR. Make sure you do resistance checks with no power to any point you are probing.
Test Y-B to make sure there is no continuity between W-B and R or Y, and between W-B and R or Y.
Then, when testing with power applied to R and Y OK to test for resistance an W-B and Y-B.
Did it all, and it seems to be fine, both the old one and the new one.
No resistance to any of the tabs, and when I put 9 volt battery to R and Y I hear the click and them have resistance between W-B & Y-B
Did it all, and it seems to be fine, both the old one and the new one.
No resistance to any of the tabs, and when I put 9 volt battery to R and Y I hear the click and them have resistance between W-B & Y-B
Cool.
That's it!
There should be some resistance between R and Y, but I don't know how much. That's the resistance through the coil.
Well, I got the harness and good news bad news. The 2 plugs do fit the glugs coming off the backup light and 4wd switches, the bad news is the other end of the harness doesn't go where I thought it did. Apparently that harness goes into the engine bay near the starter and then plugs into to a wiring harness. Guess what, I don't have that either! Back to square one............
Now 2 of the wires from the end of the harness from the switches "DO" match up with the wires from the under the dash harness plug, they are R, and R-Y, however the other wire from the switches is R-W and the other wire from the plug in the under dash harness is R-B .
I just don't know how they get from inside the engine compartment near the starter to inside the cab and into the plug near the radio wires.
...The 2 plugs do fit the glugs coming off the backup light and 4wd switches, the bad news is the other end of the harness doesn't go where I thought it did. Apparently that harness goes into the engine bay near the starter and then plugs into to a wiring harness. ..
The wires from 4WD and Backup switches meet up into a "Y" bundle near and above the starter where there are 2 connectors. Then they go up to join some temp sender wires running under the intake manifold, then to the inner fender. I think they eventually go above the wheel-well, then into the cabin behind the ECU in left-side kick panel, across under dash to the dash gage cluster. "Running under the intake manifold" is stupid. Backup / 4WD wires absolutely have no business going through that hostile environment. I believe it is cost cutting measure to quicken assembly, not for the benefit of end user.
WHAT I WOULD DO:
Run 4WD and backup wires to near and above starter, to right inner fender, along inner fender and forward to hole with grommet in inner fender to wheel-well... etc.
No need for that intermediate connector near starter because there are already connectors to pigtails of switches.
Just run a straight R-Y wire from 4WD switch all the way to gage cluster Pin22 for 4WD indicator. Other side of 4WD switch to nearest solid, accessible body ground. ADD a backup light relay (30 amp "Bosch-type" standard single pole single throw relay), as close as possible to fuse block. (That will allow you to add more load to backup light circuit.)
Pin 86 (+) of relay to engine fuse.
PIn 85 (-) of relay to wire all the way to backup light pigtail connector
Pin 30 to fused line for 30 amps to battery.
Pin 87 to backup lights AND your choice of LED pods and backup beeper if you'd like.
Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
That's what it showed on youtube also but I have none.
Good opportunity to practice here, Mike. Pls send picture of your multi-meter. I'll show you settings, etc to find out actual coil resistance (Y to R)
Ray
I'll send you the pics in a while,
1st I want you to look at this video fast forward to 2:27, It shows the wiring harness from the wd and bul switches going through the hole just above the shifters into the cab!
This is a vid on my truck! 84 4wd pickup.
Ray
Here's pics of my meters
Here is what I'd like to do with the backup lights
I have the KC 517 and I'll buy the KC 6303 Add-on Switch Kit
Just have to figure out the best way to wire it all up. Not sure if you can attach this to existing backup light wiring AND have a switch. http://www.catalograck.com/ImgVD/KCH/6303.pdf
Also, not to complicate things What I eventually want to do is add some terminal blocks in the engine bay on the fender wall,
1- for positive from battery to feed other non switched accessories , this will be a probably 4 gauge wire. I would like to connect the fusible link wire from the engine bay fuse box to this instead of connecting it to the battery directly
1- for positive from a switched source, (don't know what gauge I need) ignition on only, and don't know where to pull it from.
1- negative from battery, big 4 gauge wire
1- negative for accessories
I plan to have "many accessories, backup flood lights, rollbar spot lights (4), front fog lights, winch, radio, and power inverter, maybe a 1000w.
This is why I plan to have all these terminal blocks, I believe it will make it easier to wire things up and to keep the engine bay looking clean and neat.
Ready for the task?
Getting a head of things, planning stage 1st we'll get the other things straightened out
Hump
We can do better than that that KC Lights wiring; LED pods with backup, stock revers only, LED pods on demand, relay will handle load, not the switch, and hot wires from engine compartment to rear ONLY when one of the above above are on.
Yes, Terminal blocks are a good way to go.
Tnx for pics fo DMM.
Please probe Y to R using the 3 settings - 20-ohm, 200-ohm, and 2000-ohm until you see a reading that means something, and let me know. Reason being we do not know resistance range of relay coil until we measure it.
Tnx for pics fo DMM.
Please probe Y to R using the 3 settings - 20-ohm, 200-ohm, and 2000-ohm until you see a reading that means something, and let me know. Reason being we do not know resistance range of relay coil until we measure it.
Tried all and I get no reading whatsoever, on both the old and new relays
1 was on the meter when I started and it never flinched
Hmmm... in all ohm ranges , with both DMM?
RE Fusible link, leave stock to protect stock circuits.
Add another FL or a fuse to terminal block for auxiliary ckts. If something happens to aux and blows main or individual fuses, Truck will keep on running.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-24-2019 at 07:22 PM.
RE Fusible link, leave stock to protect stock circuits.
Add another FL or a fuse to terminal block for auxiliary ckts. If something happens to aux and blows main or individual fuses, Truck will keep on running.
Yes, both DMMs both relays act the same way. But like I said when connecting power I do hear the click and I do get a reading on the other tabs, so it has a connection
Got ya on the FL, makes sense
01-19-2019, 01:56 PM
What I eventually want to do is add some terminal blocks in the engine bay on the fender wall,
