When I did the cupholder mod on my 4runner, I took off my switches for the rear window and window lock.

I figured I would not need the rear window switch anyways, as whenever I open it I will be back there with a key anyways.

well, I just to happened to have a 3 poled, momentary switch (momentary on - off - momentary off / with three poles sticking out the back), and some free time.

I took out the wiring from the center console and did some poking around.

looking at the connector is like this:
_____
|1 | 2|
-------
|3 |
-------
|4 | 5|
-------

-3 is negative
-2 is power to lowering window
-4 is power to raising window.

------------------------
my momentary switch is like this
___
| 1 |
-----
| 2 |
-----
| 3 |
-----

-2 is negative
-1 is when the switch is in the down position
-3 is when the switch is in the up position


-----------------------------------------------------

so I connected negative to negative, window up to switch up, window down to switch down; and it works like a charm.

-tomorrow I will run the wire under the carpet to the front and either put the switch where the defrost is, or where the clutch cancel switch is and relocate that to somewhere else.(so that I keep the up and down perspective for that switch, and the clutch cancel can go in one of those "placeholders" below the ashtray)

-I will probably end up putting a small fuse on poth the power cables, just to be on the safe side.

-a future thing to look at (maybe tonight), is setting it to having power all the time, just need to find where I saw that mod...

 

sounds good. my initial thoughts are:

- if you can operate it with the key at the back without turning the truck on, isn't it already powered all the time?

- if it's not, because the switch is powered by a relay or switched circuit, shouldn't it already be fused?

i'm thinking one of those two should apply but i don't have a wiring diagram for it. check the diagram of the rear window and it should tell you right away.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml

"Tired of having to dig out your keys just to open the @*$%-ing rear window?
You either need to use the rear key switch or worse, turn on the ignition to use the front switch. After studying the wiring schematics, the key to this seems to be the rear window relay module, which is located inside the body panel right above the driver's side seat belt retractor on the 1st gen. 4Runner (on the 2nd gen. 4Runner, its farther back behind the left rear storage compartment). In either vehicle, you'll need to remove the appropriate interior trim parts to access the module.

So, with module and schematic in hand, you'll notice that there is an up/down input from the rear key switch (that operates with the ignition off) and an up/down input from the front switch that operates with the ignition on. Simple fix is to just jumper the two sets of inputs together. As luck would have it, the two up inputs (pins 5 and 12) are just across the connector from each other, as are the two downs (pins 4 and 11). Two 1/4" pieces of wire soldered between the respective solder pads will do the job nicely.
"

will do that!

 

So evileyejones! in your jumping of wires for the back windows did it help the rear key entry in your case :? Cuz I have a IID california dui machine installed and only lets me keep the ignition on for only a minute and if I forget the dang machine screws up and has cost me like 300 bones ,samolis , Quid , greenbacks etc.. Thanks
___________

85 4runner

 

if you follow the instructions on the link posted right above your post, it will allow for the rear access to work without needing the key in the ignition at all...

 

ok this is my 85 behind driver door relay panel , Do you jump the solder ones that are in a column lined up so to say in a row down ,then which are the numbers to solder . it states on the link 5&11 and so on where is the schematic that you are supposed to have to know the numbers ? hope this pic will help these are front and back.

[IMG][/IMG].

 

Those are the pin numbers on the connector, see the table on the web page for the wire colors at the connector and it is easy to figure out where #1 pin is:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay

 

4Crawler thanks for the info . just checked out that thread and now that you mention it those are color codes , I was like what the frick is that ,SO Much appreciated. Also noticed you on pirate on the ruff leafs .So is it true you used , what was it stock back leafs up front no mods to them and stock steering . Sorry to get off subject , just had you on the line Thanks.

_____________
85 sr5 2" body 33x12x50

next up ruff stock springs, front out back skyjacker 3.5 leafs I got for 50.00
And hopefully stock steering for a bit ,

 

Spring swap info:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front

In summary, a couple of sets of stock rear springs and not stock steering:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ng/index.shtml

 

I live in the country and pretty much use my truck for hunting and just tooling around. I tapped into the keyed switch on back and installed an old chevy style window switch on the underside of plastic panel Ill try to post up some pics here pretty soon.

 

OK,OK just did the soldering of the relay module for the windows and my rear window totaly works without the key . Props to yota tech and the writers of this . I'm so stoked no more $$ wasted on my ignition interlock going off cuz I did'nt turn the key off !!

85sr54runner 2"body lift 33x12x50
3" suspension soon

 

Can someone post a picture or edit a picture of what a soldered relay circuit board should look like? Here in mine in hand. What do i need to solder to what?

 

Didn't have a digital camera when I did mine, but just locate the up and down pins on the connector. On mine, it was pin 5-12 and 4-11 that were connected together and they are right across from each other:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay

So on your upper photo, two of those pairs of solder pads where the connector attaches get connected together:

So this:
O O

O O

becomes this:
O O
| |
O O

 

Thanks for the response 4crawler. So I figured out what pins are supposed to be soldered together. Instead of going ahead and soldering them i cut a small wire and placed it on the appropriate pins. I pressed the down button and the relay clicked (the key was out of the ignition), but the window did not go down... I know for a fact the motor works. The window will roll up like its supposed to.

What other safety features does bypassing the relay rule out?

 

Should bypass all the interlocks that the rear key switch bypasses:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay

And if the relay clicks but the motor doesn't run, then dirty/pitted contacts in said relay:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...leshootingTips
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ml#RelayRepair

 

Ok ok. Yeah, but whenever the relay clicked just now, the key wasnt in the ignition. I was holding the wire on the pins with my finger when the relay box was in the 4runner. I pushed the down button simultaneously (in my mind, bypassing the relay temporarily without soldering). When i pressed down the relay clicked (in my mind indicating that both pins were touching with the wire), but the window did not roll down. So im a little puzzled...

 

I figured it out!!!! So whenever I put the relay box back into the 4runner (with the relays exposed) I found out when i move one of the top left relay on my first picture the window rolls down!! The relay moves a little bit so maybe the solder is broken??

What do you think??

 

Relays are electro-mechanical devices. The coil is the electrical part, magnetizes when current it applied and that pulls in the iron or steel contact bar (that is the click). Then the mechanical bit is that bar has one half of the contact on it and that hit the stationary half of the contact. Now if those contacts are not clean or perhaps pitted from electrical arcing, they may touch but not make sufficient electrical contact to operate the motor. So clicking means the relay coil is not burned out and is getting current flowing through it. But motor not running may mean the relay contacts are shot in the pair of down relays. Since the up relays work, that says wiring to the motor is OK as there is just one pair of wires to the motor and the relays reverse polarity on those two wires.

Might also check the obvious things:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CommonProblems

 

If the current can't flow from the relay to the motor, then the motor won't work. Try re-soldering all the relay connections and see if that helps.

 

4crawler see my last post!