killswitch wiring for dummies
#1
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killswitch wiring for dummies
This is also posted on marlins site but I thought I would post here too to see if somebody could get it faster as I have the time know just not the knowlage. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...8126#msg538126
ANYWAYS heres is my question I'm a firm believer in locks are only to keep honest people honest, and a real thief will take what he wants no matter what the costs.
But as far a rigging a simple toggle witch or any other type of switch how easy is it? I am by NO means an electrician or really have much exp in it. from what I can figure out on my own all its for it to break the circuit right?
So say I wanted to rig a kill for my fuel pump I just snip the hot wire. run my own extensions off each end to wherever I want that switch and hook my switch up? so I flip the switch and the circuit can be continued right? please stop me if I'm wrong.. like a stretch that takes say my ignition wire and extens it to run to my cig lighter? so I press in the cig lighter and I get about 20sec to start my car? then it would reset so I don't have to worry about turning it off? if I got it shoot me a thumbs up if not well pimp slap me and point me the right way
ANYWAYS heres is my question I'm a firm believer in locks are only to keep honest people honest, and a real thief will take what he wants no matter what the costs.
But as far a rigging a simple toggle witch or any other type of switch how easy is it? I am by NO means an electrician or really have much exp in it. from what I can figure out on my own all its for it to break the circuit right?
So say I wanted to rig a kill for my fuel pump I just snip the hot wire. run my own extensions off each end to wherever I want that switch and hook my switch up? so I flip the switch and the circuit can be continued right? please stop me if I'm wrong.. like a stretch that takes say my ignition wire and extens it to run to my cig lighter? so I press in the cig lighter and I get about 20sec to start my car? then it would reset so I don't have to worry about turning it off? if I got it shoot me a thumbs up if not well pimp slap me and point me the right way
#3
I saw a video of some so called reformed "unstoppable" car thieves where this show pitted them against certain anti-theft devices & they went through them all in a flash except the hidden kill switch for the ignition. These guys knew what it was that was stopping them & knew it was there somewhere inside the car but never could find it & eventually gave up. The anti-theft experts that rigged the cars switch had put it in one of the power window switches on the drivers main control panel. Hidden in plain sight so to speak.
#4
Some cop cars have a button under the carpet right near where your left foot is that you have to press to start the car.
Thats got me thinkin about doin somethin like this to mine. Although I dont see anyone stealing a rig that stands out as much as mine. But you never know.
Thats got me thinkin about doin somethin like this to mine. Although I dont see anyone stealing a rig that stands out as much as mine. But you never know.
#5
i bought a stock looking switch that i plan to use as a kill switch as soon as i can run the wires. hidden in plain sight is a great trick. croox always look under dashboards for toggle switches.
wiring a switch into the fuel pump circuit is a lot like a switch for aux. lights. you don't really want to put that switch in the pump's power line, unless you are sure your switch can handle the amps. instead, switch the relay that controls the pump
i haven't investigated toyota's set up, but on vw's i preferred to put the switch in line between the ignition and the fuel pump relay, essentially cutting power to the relay, which kept the pump from powering on. usually plastic dash switches can't handle the juice flowing thru it to power the device while its running, then overheat/melt issues occur.
good luck bro, keep 'em out of your rig!
wiring a switch into the fuel pump circuit is a lot like a switch for aux. lights. you don't really want to put that switch in the pump's power line, unless you are sure your switch can handle the amps. instead, switch the relay that controls the pump
i haven't investigated toyota's set up, but on vw's i preferred to put the switch in line between the ignition and the fuel pump relay, essentially cutting power to the relay, which kept the pump from powering on. usually plastic dash switches can't handle the juice flowing thru it to power the device while its running, then overheat/melt issues occur.
good luck bro, keep 'em out of your rig!
Last edited by tj884Rdlx; Mar 18, 2008 at 11:42 AM. Reason: everyone made me paranoid!
#6
That's a good point about switches being able to handle the amps. I just assumed people would think of that, but I had to learn the hard way. How would you hook up an aftermarket fuel pump? There is no relay, correct?
#7
I'd just like to remind you guys that many of you have your locations posted and also drive very recognizable rigs. Don't post exactly how you've wired your kill switch.
We wouldn't want this thread to turn into a resource on how to defeat a kill switch.
We wouldn't want this thread to turn into a resource on how to defeat a kill switch.
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#9
I like the idea of using the cruise control unit's switch. That's pretty cool.
And as far as the Cop car "under carpet" idea, you could use an old school Chevy "high beams" switch. The old round button on the floor that you kick with your left foot.
I think I'm going to have to incorporate that cruise control idea into my truck. I have an old control on the dash already.
And as far as the Cop car "under carpet" idea, you could use an old school Chevy "high beams" switch. The old round button on the floor that you kick with your left foot.
I think I'm going to have to incorporate that cruise control idea into my truck. I have an old control on the dash already.
#11
#12
Some cop cars have a button under the carpet right near where your left foot is that you have to press to start the car.
Thats got me thinkin about doin somethin like this to mine. Although I dont see anyone stealing a rig that stands out as much as mine. But you never know.
Thats got me thinkin about doin somethin like this to mine. Although I dont see anyone stealing a rig that stands out as much as mine. But you never know.
#13
It does not matter which "side" you choose to put your kill switch into, if you lose ground in a circuit it's as good as a dead battery (no power, can't run).
As stated above though, be sure you choose switches that can handle the amps or go for the relay wires to install your kill switch.
As an example, how many people have weird electrical problems or something doesn't work or vehicle doesn't start because your engine ground wire or your frame ground wire is attached to a now rusted spot on a frame or body panel?
As stated above though, be sure you choose switches that can handle the amps or go for the relay wires to install your kill switch.
As an example, how many people have weird electrical problems or something doesn't work or vehicle doesn't start because your engine ground wire or your frame ground wire is attached to a now rusted spot on a frame or body panel?
#14
Since I live in Iceland and y´all are over there in the states, I´m gonna post my locations.
In my ´90 Hilux (diesel motor "2L") I have one switch behind the plastic panel under the ashtray and 12V socket.
The plastic clips on the sides are long gone and only the clip in the cente remains, making the panel easy to remove. This switch connects to a relay (an extra ignition relay I had from my old truck). That way I can cut off the power to the ignition. I only use this one if I´m away from home over the weekend or such (I live downtown and there are clubs and bars within a 1/4 mile from my house).
I don´t have AC in my truck so I got an AC button off Ebay and put that in my dash. That switch needs to be on so the starter will crank. No harm in leaving it on since you will still need to turn the key to start the motor. I pretty much always use this one.
I also have one that is located near the fusebox. You open the little cover on the kickpanel and you can´t see it, you need to put your finger in there and feel for it, this switch cuts off power to the headlights. I threw that in there when I was wiring my aux. lights.
In my VolksWagen Golf ´98 the switch is located under the leather around the shifter, where reverse would be on older style gearboxes. you can feel the toggle switch under there but there is no way of seeing it. That cuts out the starter and fuelpump.
In my ´90 Hilux (diesel motor "2L") I have one switch behind the plastic panel under the ashtray and 12V socket.
The plastic clips on the sides are long gone and only the clip in the cente remains, making the panel easy to remove. This switch connects to a relay (an extra ignition relay I had from my old truck). That way I can cut off the power to the ignition. I only use this one if I´m away from home over the weekend or such (I live downtown and there are clubs and bars within a 1/4 mile from my house).
I don´t have AC in my truck so I got an AC button off Ebay and put that in my dash. That switch needs to be on so the starter will crank. No harm in leaving it on since you will still need to turn the key to start the motor. I pretty much always use this one.
I also have one that is located near the fusebox. You open the little cover on the kickpanel and you can´t see it, you need to put your finger in there and feel for it, this switch cuts off power to the headlights. I threw that in there when I was wiring my aux. lights.
In my VolksWagen Golf ´98 the switch is located under the leather around the shifter, where reverse would be on older style gearboxes. you can feel the toggle switch under there but there is no way of seeing it. That cuts out the starter and fuelpump.
#15
under the shift booty is a great idea! invisible!
86 blue: installing in the ground side of the circuit that powers something, still carries the same load. if you want to switch the powering circuit, you can, just check the fuse for the device to see its amperage, let's say its a 20 amp fuse, make sure you buy a switch that can handle like 30 amps, so it will tolerate the heat load from continuous juice going through it. usually the switches that can handle higher amps are those simple style metal toggles.
86 blue: installing in the ground side of the circuit that powers something, still carries the same load. if you want to switch the powering circuit, you can, just check the fuse for the device to see its amperage, let's say its a 20 amp fuse, make sure you buy a switch that can handle like 30 amps, so it will tolerate the heat load from continuous juice going through it. usually the switches that can handle higher amps are those simple style metal toggles.
#16
Hey guys, I've been looking into doing this for a while now but my electrical experience is 0. I don't know where to start and I've looked for writeups but I guess this is a mod where you really don't want to disclose the steps huh! Any help will be apreciated like materials needed and steps.
Thanks
Thanks
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