I just installed a set of KC Slimlites on my truck, but they blow the fuse as soon as the switched is flipped. I've doubled and tripled checked all wiring, and nothing. I did a volt test on the line, and with no lights plugged and turned on, I received 12 volts (Truck was off) in the far light, and zero in the close light. I turned off the switch, plugged a light into the line receiving 12V and turned it on. Popped the fuse. Tried with both lights, and popped the fuse.

Only thing I can think of is maybe a bad relay...

 

bad grounds ?

 

What would that cause?

And I didn't test the grounds, right at the source. Too tired to do it now...

 

check the ground on the lights or maybe the lights themselfs.... i doubt its that tho... that weird. see if it does the same thing with something else, ie old fog light, etc.


dont use a fuse.... that should fix it

 

I've already had one car catch on fire. That was due to a bad alternator, but it still wasn't any fun.

 

I think your clue is that you get 0 volts in one of your lights. Check for a short to ground in your circuit.

 

I would also check the swich it's self. I had a bad swich when I put on a set of AUX lights and nearly turned my truck into a Roman Candle. Newbe mistake, only had the relay fused not that swich as well. When i turned the lights on it was a dead short in the swich. All the wire under the dash was glowing like a light bulb. I paniced and just riped it out with my bare hands. Got some pretty bad cuts and burns, but it kept my truck from burnig to the ground. Just something you might want to check! Good luck trouble shooting

 

After talking w/ tofer last night, I realized my Camry w/ aux lights uses the same relay. I'm going to pop it in after class/work tonight. Hopefully that's my problem.


I'll look into it, but the fact that the switch's line fuse is still intact leads me to believe it's fine.

 

The relay from the Camry isn't the same. Hopefully the shop has got one I can borrow/use...

 

gotta be the wiring are you useing a factory style switch or the one it came with ? heres how it should be green wire goes to what ever is 12v http://www.4runners.org/image/hella5...auxfusebox.jpg

 

You DO realize that Toyota's wire their cars "backwards" - the GROUND is switched not the hot - you understand what this means right?

 

I was able to get a new relay from the shop, and it's the same thing, instant pop.

When I plug the ground into the lights, and leave the positive unplugged from the the light, but test it, there's a negative current coming from both the positive and negative wires. And that's right at the light, not at the end of the harness, so I don't think there's a short.

Hmm. Please enlighten me. I was able to wire my Camry successfully.

I double/triple checked it and even did some volt tests. Everything is legit there.

 

btw - WHICH fuse is poping?

what are you doing for grounds?

where are the lights mounted

How is the relay wired? (where did you tap in to power)

 

did you take the lights apart and check the wireing ?

 

If you've cheked everything, does that include the wiring inside your lights? Just check to make sure, I've seen a couple pairs of KC's come with the wiring butchered.
and hey if you get to frustrated, just rip everything out, and start over. with new power taps and the whole bit.

 

The fuse coming straight from the batt is the one poppin.

Drilled the body for one ground (I get12v) and another using the bolt holding the metal shield under the steering column for the switch ground (it gets 12v too).


I pulled apart one light and it seemed fine. I'll take pics of everything tonight around 10.

 

So as I understand it

There is a wire from the battery to a fuse (thats popping) to the relay switched input

Then theres a wire (or two) that go from the relay switched output to the lights.

I assume you ran seperate wires from the relay to the lights.
Or did you chain the one light off of the other light?

There's a wire that goes from the 12v sense source in the cab that gets 12v when ya want it that goes to yer on/off SWITCH then to the relay sense input pin

Finally theres a wire from the switch sense output pin of the relay to a ground.

Your switched sense wire gets 12v ONLY when you want it (i.e. its not hot all the time)

If yer wired like this and yer poppin fuses - the the problem is in the LIGHT side of the relay - unless you wired the relay wrong...

 

You are correct. I am thinking there is some sort of short in the lights. I can't figure out why. Everything is fine and dandy until I wire plug in the lights. I can have them unplugged, flip the switch, hear the relay click and it seems fine. I haven't run a volt test on the light end of the wires yet. That's for tonight. But once I plug the lights in, the fuse pops. I'll open the lights and let you guys examine them.

 

what kind of fuse are you using?
Whats the rating of the bulbs verus the the fuse?

(thinking the fuse is too low?)

Is the back of the bulb gounding out against the shell of the light?

 

I've used a 20, 25, and 30A fuse. I don't want to go any higher than that.

I don't think the lights are grounding out the back... Here's some pics of each light, close up and wide.

Light 1:



Light 2: