For some reason one pair of lights just lead to more lights. I have 4 Hella 500's all retrofitted with DDM 8000k 55 watt. 2 KC 55 watt fog lights and 2 KC 55 watt back up lights. With all these lights I'm beginning to wonder if my stock alternator will handle it. How do I know if it's to much for the alternator to bare?

Here is a pic of it at the university parking lot.

 

figure out your amp draw (add everything up) and figure out what your altenator output is...don't forget that your heater, radio, regular lights (brakes/signals) need priority over your extra stuff. you are pretty close or already have exceeded your stock output since they are generally designed for the bare minimum.

 

yea uh..you should get your stock alt. rewound..LOL

you shoudn't run alllll them lights at once..it'll kill your charging system....ask me how i know lmao

 

haha i know how u feel there tex i got 2 spots and i love them and i want more haha

 

Ok so my fogs are taking up about 4 amps and each set of my hellas are taking up 6 amps at start up and 3.4 amps at normal operating temperature. So if I added it all up right I'm needing an extra 10.8 to 14.8 amps (if the backups are on as well) amps extra. I don't know how much the stock alternator can take but my guess is that I'm in the market for a high output alternator. Any suggestions?

 

I've run 400 watts of auxiliary lights, so it'll work fine.

One time had the truck running for four hours straight, idling, running those 400 watts plus stock lights to light a friends truck up that needed to be dug out. My alternator still works and that was over a year ago.

 

look around at the Chevy Alt. swap stuff..

or you can get your stock alt. rewound ..most of them put out close to 90amps..and close to that much at idle...at least i think that's what i read lol

 

no way man. I want AT LEAST one more pair of LightForce 170s. I want two on the grille like I have now an then 4 on my non-existent roof rack

 

Stock is usually like 60-70 amps. If you got a voltmeter turn everything on and measure the voltage drop. It's not measuring amps, but the alt will increase output to compensate for the draw. Alt also produces least at idle, with max around 2500 rpms.

 

watts and amps are different dude..lol..

i've ran both my 100w spots...both my 55w fogs...and my sound system at probably 300-350 watts all at the same time..lol..thats like..over 600w..hahahaha..plus my headlights.the heater..whatever my gauge lights and headunit take up as well...(yea..my alt. gave out not too long ago LMAO)

i have since gotten rid of my lights (needed the money ) and now have a less powerful system that sounds twice as good?? LOL

 

amps=watts/volts

You battery will act as a buffer till it drains. A big concern for us winch guys with a single battery charging system. I'm going to step up to a 100/105 amp GM cs130. My buddy ran a 100amp powermaster GM alt 12 or 10 si as a single wire. Single wire setup can cause issues with AGM type batteries (like optimas)

 

What do you mean by getting the stock alternator rewound?

 

An alternator can be rewound to produce more amps. There are some downsides to it. You can also get a new rectifier to produce more amps on a stock alternator.

 

Muddpigg from what I'm understanding if i turn everything on and the alternator is still putting out a charge of around 14 volts I should be fine right?

 

Think optimal is 14.5 to 14.7, but could be wrong. But 14 is alright loaded. But this isnt an accurate picture of the amp draw. When I winch I can watch the instrument gauge's voltmeter drop and really heavy when the electrical fan kicks on.

 

That all seems healthy. I have the same amount on my rig.