HID problems...no, I didnt put them in, the guy before me did
#1
HID problems...no, I didnt put them in, the guy before me did
So, the guy before me decided to install HIDs in my 1986 4Runner. They're super bright, but I know they weren't installed correctly because of a couple things.
1) when I try to turn on the brights, the front left light shorts out. It also shorts out sporadically while I'm driving.
2) The light projection pattern is absolutely crazy. When I'm cruising down the highway my beams are scattering light all the way up on top of the interstate signs.
I am really inexperienced with lighting and stuff, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Andy
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0161.jpg
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0160.jpg
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0159.jpg
1) when I try to turn on the brights, the front left light shorts out. It also shorts out sporadically while I'm driving.
2) The light projection pattern is absolutely crazy. When I'm cruising down the highway my beams are scattering light all the way up on top of the interstate signs.
I am really inexperienced with lighting and stuff, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Andy
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0161.jpg
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0160.jpg
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/...3DIMAG0159.jpg
Last edited by andlours; Nov 29, 2011 at 05:26 PM.
#2
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...timers-attempt
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
That should be some helpful reading in terms of fixing the output..
Now your best bet would be to return to halogen bulbs at this point 'till you get some real projectors for those lights. You should be using H4 bulbs..
But if you really want to keep the hids you should double check all the connectors to both bulbs and make sure everything is good. Does the left kick out ALL the time or only some? I believe the plug and play kits with H4 bulbs pull the bulb back to bring it closer to the reflector bowl, you could have an issue with the bulb itself in that regard where whatever the bulb is using to pull back (sometimes magnets, sometimes an electric solenoid..) is broken and causing a short..
But the sometimes on, sometimes off could either be ˟˟˟˟ty wiring or a ˟˟˟˟ty ballast. Check wiring first, and swap the ballast from left side to right side to see if the right side starts having issues.. Then swap bulbs left to right to see if it's a bulb issue or wiring issue.
Good luck!
www.theretrofitsource.com for projectors.. btw..
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...t=toyota+truck
That should be some helpful reading in terms of fixing the output..
Now your best bet would be to return to halogen bulbs at this point 'till you get some real projectors for those lights. You should be using H4 bulbs..
But if you really want to keep the hids you should double check all the connectors to both bulbs and make sure everything is good. Does the left kick out ALL the time or only some? I believe the plug and play kits with H4 bulbs pull the bulb back to bring it closer to the reflector bowl, you could have an issue with the bulb itself in that regard where whatever the bulb is using to pull back (sometimes magnets, sometimes an electric solenoid..) is broken and causing a short..
But the sometimes on, sometimes off could either be ˟˟˟˟ty wiring or a ˟˟˟˟ty ballast. Check wiring first, and swap the ballast from left side to right side to see if the right side starts having issues.. Then swap bulbs left to right to see if it's a bulb issue or wiring issue.
Good luck!
www.theretrofitsource.com for projectors.. btw..
#3
The problem with many aftermarket components is that they are designed with a built-in ground connection via the case of the device. That is there is usually some sort of metal box for the device, like an HID lamp ballast, and when that metal case is screwed into the vehicle's sheet metal, that forms the ground connection. Now the trouble comes when you try to tie a floating ground system (like the headlights) to a hard-wired ground system like an HID conversion kit, you may get interactions between the hard ground in the HID kit and the floating ground in the headlights. This can cause problems like flickering lights, blown fuses, or worse.
Last edited by BMcEL; Nov 29, 2011 at 10:16 PM.
#4
Hey guys, thanks for all the help so far. I won't have a chance to break everything open until this weekend though. I was just wondering, like Exist said, how difficult would it be to switch back to H4 bulbs? I mean I would like to get something that was better than the standard stock headlights (my HIDs currently have great output, just in a terrible pattern). It would be nice to have high beams and low beams too. Im open to any suggestions. Just give me ideas. Thanks!
#5
Almost all conversion housings take H4 bulbs. You should be able to simply remove the HID kit and install halogen H4 bulbs. A headlight relay harness wouldn't be a bad idea either:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...arness-243482/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...arness-243482/
#6
The thing is, those conversion housings are complete garbage in terms of output. Mine threw scattered light everywhere except where I wanted it..
It depends how much work you'd like to do at this point.. Halogen H4 bulbs can be decently bright, but because those housings suck you're kind've in a poor position. Either retrofit real projectors and use your ballasts (if they're okay) and new bulbs (H4's wont fit in an actual projector) and go from there, like in those links I posted.. Or consider going with an E-Code housings (Hella are super nice, but the autopal replicas aren't bad either) and some good H4 bulbs - but at that point you're at the same price point as retrofitting projectors..
In terms of retrofitting it's actually incredibly straight forward. Cut a hole big enough for the projector - epoxy or bolt it to the housing - you're done.. That's what I did, and thats what I'd recommend you do with those housings.
If you don't want to retro your only set of lights, go back to sealed beams for a few weeks while you have the cash/time to do projectors in your ebay lights
It depends how much work you'd like to do at this point.. Halogen H4 bulbs can be decently bright, but because those housings suck you're kind've in a poor position. Either retrofit real projectors and use your ballasts (if they're okay) and new bulbs (H4's wont fit in an actual projector) and go from there, like in those links I posted.. Or consider going with an E-Code housings (Hella are super nice, but the autopal replicas aren't bad either) and some good H4 bulbs - but at that point you're at the same price point as retrofitting projectors..
In terms of retrofitting it's actually incredibly straight forward. Cut a hole big enough for the projector - epoxy or bolt it to the housing - you're done.. That's what I did, and thats what I'd recommend you do with those housings.
If you don't want to retro your only set of lights, go back to sealed beams for a few weeks while you have the cash/time to do projectors in your ebay lights
#7
You probably don't have high beams because you have a kit that isn't the bi-xenon or hi/lo. If you have low beams then there is no issues with the switched ground versus switched positive earlier mentioned. You can't switch bulbs either, you have to switch out the entire kit.
Standard HID

BI-Xenon

HI-LO

Light scatter problem is a typical issue with HIDs in a reflector housing. This is why they are illegal in nearly every state in the US. However, the housings you have are pure junk. I have had those and even with standard bulbs they scatter light bad. Those are your typical "euro" "projector" housings sold on ebay. They aren't projector housings. I would get rid of them.
To fix your photo links use the [IMG] code given by photobucket and paste that directly into your text box.


Standard HID

BI-Xenon

HI-LO

Light scatter problem is a typical issue with HIDs in a reflector housing. This is why they are illegal in nearly every state in the US. However, the housings you have are pure junk. I have had those and even with standard bulbs they scatter light bad. Those are your typical "euro" "projector" housings sold on ebay. They aren't projector housings. I would get rid of them.
To fix your photo links use the [IMG] code given by photobucket and paste that directly into your text box.


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#8
#10
The lenses you had are crap... now the only thing they are good for is projector retrofits.
Either do a retrofit, or get some roundeyes conversion lenses (www.roundeyes.com) and remove the HID kit.
Either do a retrofit, or get some roundeyes conversion lenses (www.roundeyes.com) and remove the HID kit.
#12
extreme22..... the ballast has NOTHING to do with hi/lo. you're putting out a lot of wrong info out there.
to the op, listen to exist and def go to hid planet and trs and get a proper "kit" with projectors, good harness, etc. or, piece one together yourself... cheap lights $20, harness $30, china hid bulbs/ballasts $40, projectors $100... i think you can do it for under $200 and have a proper hid projector set up with hi/lo and a clean cut off.
or, just rip everything non oem outta there and just get a pair of $10 h4 bulbs and plug em in there, done and problems solved. then, get a nice set of off road lights like a cheap pair of hella 500s, light forces or the kragen HID 7"'s for highway night time (with no traffic) or off road stuff.... in the city your headlights are worthless no matter what. you can get a nice set of off road lights for around $200 too.
to the op, listen to exist and def go to hid planet and trs and get a proper "kit" with projectors, good harness, etc. or, piece one together yourself... cheap lights $20, harness $30, china hid bulbs/ballasts $40, projectors $100... i think you can do it for under $200 and have a proper hid projector set up with hi/lo and a clean cut off.
or, just rip everything non oem outta there and just get a pair of $10 h4 bulbs and plug em in there, done and problems solved. then, get a nice set of off road lights like a cheap pair of hella 500s, light forces or the kragen HID 7"'s for highway night time (with no traffic) or off road stuff.... in the city your headlights are worthless no matter what. you can get a nice set of off road lights for around $200 too.
#13
Ok guys, so I'm definitely getting mixed reviews right now at this point. Really I just want to be able to have decently bright headlights with both high and low beams (it kills me to not have brights). To be honest, I'm pretty terrible with electronics and wiring (I'm only a 17 year old student) so I need a project that's not gonna be too difficult or expensive. I'm open to any ideas, either H4s or HID projectors, but I think I'm leaning a little more towards H4s right now. Any helpful input would be appreciated, and thanks for all the valuable I formation so far!
#14
Just rip out everything not OEM and associated with the HID install and then put in a regular pair of h4 bulbs and plug the sockets from the oem wireing into them. Done. If the PO hacked into the oem wireing and cut the h4 plugs off vs. pluging them into an HID harness then figure that out, find the oem wires (there should be 3 for each headlight I think), a ground, a negative and a positive and buy then soder h4 plugs to the appropriate wires.
#15
Ok guys, so I'm definitely getting mixed reviews right now at this point. Really I just want to be able to have decently bright headlights with both high and low beams (it kills me to not have brights). To be honest, I'm pretty terrible with electronics and wiring (I'm only a 17 year old student) so I need a project that's not gonna be too difficult or expensive. I'm open to any ideas, either H4s or HID projectors, but I think I'm leaning a little more towards H4s right now. Any helpful input would be appreciated, and thanks for all the valuable I formation so far!
Literally should take 2 hours.. Maybe 3.
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