I'm at a loss and I need some help. 1986 22R 2WD - with the key off, I'm getting 11V on the L terminal of the alternator. Because that is the same circuit that the electric choke is on, I've got constant power to the choke and the 7.5A "charge" fuse under the hood, even with the ignition off.

Is the alternator internally fried? That's all I can come up with, but didn't want to throw $100 at it without a second opinion. Thanks for any assistance.

 

Is that with the engine running, or shut off? From the sound of what you were saying, it sounds like the key is off, so the engine is NOT running, right?
Did you try pulling the plug out from the alternator, and then checking at the Charge fuse?
I might be wrong, but I think terminal L get's it's voltage from the IG2 terminal of the ignition switch. Check that for constant battery voltage? Is the battery putting out a full +12.6 VDC? When the engine is stopped, obviously, the alternator isn't putting out any voltage. It gets excitation from the battery, though, on the IG terminal (white wire), from the IG1 terminal of the key, when it's on.

SO: there shouldn't be any voltage of any kind at the alternator with the key OFF. This tells me that your key switch may well have two terminals arced across, or has dirt or corrosion built up, allowing voltage to be present when it shouldn't. I would check the key switch very carefully visually. Also, you can pull the key switch's plug and see if you still have voltage at the charge fuse. Obviously, you shouldn't.
Or replace it. It can be replaced without replacing the actual "key", or the locking, part of the whole assembly. If I recall, it isn't that expensive.

Good luck, and let us know how things go for ya
Pat☺

EDIT: Here's a great thread that explains all this better than I do by a long shot: How the Charging System Works
Hope it's some help...
Pat☺

 

Hey, thank you for the reply! I drove my wife's CX5 to work today because of this, and a woman rearended the hell out of me on the way home so I'm just getting to sit down.

I was convinced enough last night that it was the alternator that I picked a new one up, and it fixed the issue. It was actually feeding I guess from the sense wire or the B+ wire back through the L terminal with the key off. I figured it was the ignition switch at first as well, and even had one in my cart at Rockauto, but everything checked out with the DMM.

Now I have to fix the POS knock off carb, or convert it to injection, fix the A/C, tighten the steering box, replace the God awful distributor cap and plugs, etc etc etc..

Thanks again for your help.

 

I'm glad it's going now. Or, at least, is one step closer. Rebuilding the carb will be the worst of what you have to do. I mean, maybe the AC repair, depending on what's worng with it, but the carb is just a lot of small details you need to be careful of. Setting the choke, setting the mixture and idle speed, which are interdependant, setting the float, etc. There are a lot of rebuild kits for these carbs, though, and the FSM has a good, detailed write up for how-to. Or just pick up a carb from a junk yard, something like that. The factory carbs just keep on keepin on, so to speak.

I don't know what's wrong with your distributor cap, but replacing it, the rotor inside, the plug wires, plugs, and so forth are beyond easy to replace. I do mine every spring. A hint: Use OEM parts, wherever possible. Like the NGK plugs, and so forth. Make sure you check the plug's gap. No promise they come gapped correctly.

REALLY sorry about the accident! I'm glad you're OK. I hope you and your insurance company tear the woman a new one. Or at least, nail her for a small fortune

Good luck to ya!
Pat☺

 

Thanks! I've actually got a line on a 22RE with a holed block for $150. May go pick it up and convert to FI, I've always wanted to play with Megasquirt. I'll post a thread if I do.

Again, I sincerely appreciate the help.

 

Don`t forget the electric fuel pump and fuel filter

 

I hope you have no serious injury.
Glad you figured it out.
Yes, internal short. S and B wires always have 12V even when switch is off.