OK so thoughts on this-

I was driving today and lost all power(everything). I turned into a parking lot and stopped. The Battery light was on and for the last three days the check engine light was on also( I thought it was something like an o2 sensor etc.). I turned the 4runner off. Right after this I went to start it and it fired right up, the batt. light was not off but the check eng. was still on, all power was working again? I was not sure what to think.

The battery is new(Die Hard Plat.) and so is the Alternate(O'Rielley). I checked both for something else not long ago and it was reading 12.5 amps, I'm thinking the fuse maybe that controls the alternate? It is 120amps and I'm thinking it might be bad. Am I off on this one. I just can't think what else it would be, other than a ground issue etc. I have not put it in water. Nothing has been messed with,so I'm kinda stumped right now. Again, thoughts? Thanks guys.


Blue

 

When running your alternator should be at least over 13.5V. It sounds like your alternator is toast or you have a grounding problem.

 

if you have a sensor issue, the ecu could be retarding the timing to save the motor. Check the codes.

 

Is the belt loose??

Maybe a loose connection or corroded one at the alternator or battery.

Never hurts to upgrade the ground cables.

If battery voltage drops to low the ECM will shut down

Pull the codes see what is going on.

 

Thanks guys

 

Codes Thrown-

P1135- Unk Information.

P0125- Closed Loop fule control, Insufficient Cool Temp.

I cleaned the Mass air flow sensor. It was covered in Dirt, I could not even see the sensor on one side. The throttle body was also cleaned as best I could with out taking it off and really cleaning it. I also cleaned the air box and the tub going up into the throttle body.

I was reading something about the front 02 sensor. Will this need to be changed.

The negative batt cable got a new connecter also because there was almost no connection to the Neg on the Bat.

The drive home was smooth but there was a code still thrown. I disconnected the Batt again when I got home to see if the codes would clear and it did. I will drive it again in the morning and see if anything is thrown again and what code and report back.

Thanks,

Blue

 

I'm assuming your truck has Cali emissions since you have a code for the air fuel ratio sensor heater circuit. It likely needs to be replaced. The other code is possibly caused by a faulty tstat. You can check it with a scanner by idling the truck until you reach 195 degrees or so. Then hold it at 1500-2000 rpm and see if the temp drops. Last one I did dropped to 165 within a couple minutes. That means the tstat is stuck open

 

This is a CA truck. So the front O2 sensor needs replaced? I didn't think about the Tsat. The temp seems to be fine when driving. I will check it in the morning and see what happens. The last thing I need is over heating and something like a blown head gasket right now. That would S balls.

Blue

 

You don't have a front O2 sensor. You have an air fuel ratio sensor. Same idea, but they work very differently and are not interchangeable. Be sure you get the right one. And you probably won't notice the temp difference by looking at the gauge. You need a scanner that will show a live data list. The gauges are not that sensitive.

 

Forgot to add that you probably fixed the original issue when you replaced the battery cable end and these codes are unrelated to it losing power

 

10-4 good buddy! Thanks

Looks like it is going to be a good weekend working on the truck.

Blue

 

Tip: rockauto.com sells the denso brand sensors cheaper than anywhere else I have seen