Replaced the rear speakers and re-sprayed rear cargo panels. The speakers sound great and the panels look like new again. The speakers are Sony 6.5" 4 way speakers you can get at walmart for around $40 and they mount perfectly in the rear factory mounts. The panels were sprayed with dark grey dupli-color vinyl and fabric spray and match the factory color very well (about $7 at O'Reilly). Sorry if the pictures aren't very good.

 

Wow, panels look GREAT, Dino! I have fresh UNCUT replacement panels for the back from Pick-Your-Part for 20$ ... But I'm planning on installing my sub back there, so just leaving my crappy panels for now, lol.

Looks great!

 

nice work... I want a set of those speaker mounts!

 

I just re-used the factory mounts that came in the truck. The holes lined up perfect for the Sony speakers and they produce good sound for a 6 1/2" speaker.

 

I don't have the factory mounts.....

 

About 10.00 to recover old door panels. Fabric store for material and 3m spray adhesive. While the adhesive was still tacky i made sure to run the end of the handle of a screwdriver over all the lines on the panel. They stayed well defined. The material I used is on the thinner side so that helped.

 

those look damn good, is that felt?

 

Nice work, Hammerhead!

 

OK, I'm not sure if this is considered a "MOD", so to speak... But I guess you could say a "Best Cheap Solution to otherwise having to use a 10X as expensive OEM part" MOD? hahahaha....

Recently got some Aisin IFS Manual Locking Hubs, CHEAP! Upon opening the first one, "NO TINY BALL", just the spring in the lever/dial. Thanks to rustEd, a member on here, he told me "Hey, my buddy used a 1/4" drive socket retainer bearing ball"... I headed to Lowes, returned something, got a 1.88$ on sale 3" long 1/4" drive Socket Extention.... Took my 4" angle grinder w/cutting wheel on it and carefully cut around the edge....

1.88$ instead of 24$ w/shipping for the required order of 2 springs/ 2 balls>>>



Guess which one is the LOWES vs. AISIN "tiny ball"? hehehe... BTW, test fit it... WORKS LIKE A CHARM!

OH, ... and some leftover Rustoleum Auto Paint for about 40Cents worth of expense.... >>>>

 

Thanks Outsane and Chefyota. Yes its felt. Looks like what they cover speaker boxes with. I'm sorta second guessing myself because It seems like its gonna attract lint...so may not be good if you wheel with your cat... Although velcro could be used to stick stuff to it..I don't know, best part is is didn't cost too much if I want to change it.

 

C'mon guys, let's see some more cheap mods...stuff a poor old college boy like me can afford

 

Now...... I showed you my Cupholder, right? hahaha... HEY, IT WORKS AND IT'S 99c! I'd love a pop-out cup holder/cargo space in my dash on my 1st gen like anyone... But I like shifting into 1st, 3rd and 5th at times.... CRAZY, I know! hahaha.. Anddddddd, ... this can latch on in like 3-4 places that I've used it so far... and CAMPING being the best one! Go get one, College Boy! YOU KNOW YOU NEED ONE! hahahaa.

 

Hey man... you didn't lose much if you wanna change it, right?

BTW, do you have Pick-n-Save around you, or BigLots? Or McFrugals? (all the same store).... JUST GO THERE and look in their auto section... TRUST ME! They have that Carpet for Auto in rolls that Pep Boys wants like 40$ for... for 10$! I have enough to redo my whole rear cargo in my 1st Gen... But first I gotta get the insulation stuff that everyone uses... Sound deadening/heat and cold insulate.... Ya know? Sorry, can't think of the name, hahaha... AND, I'll splurge and do the kit up front, like a couple guys on here have done... But need insulate up there, too. PEEL'N'STICK, that's it! hahaha. Ok, there's more to the name, but you kwim! lol. Anyway, that Carpet might not be great for the door part you did, but maybe for other stuff if someone needs it, ya know? >>>>



Got this stuff there, too... IT'S GREAT adhesive... But it's that kinda stuff Toyota uses that's ONE TIME OR YOUR SCREWED! lol... NO easy redo's once it's down, ya know? >>>>

 

ChefYota, Good suggestions. Didnt think to ever look at those stores. The 3M spray is the same, small window of opportunity.

 

Heres another, assuming you already have the gauges. Drilled holes at an angle in dash with hole saw and long pilot drill. Used PVC, JB Weld and some caulk to build the gauge pods. Cost of mod minus gauges was around 10.00.

 

Someone please help! i bought 2 bucket seats for my '92 xtracab pickup. they came from a '99 suberu forester very nice seats for 50 dolllars...PLUSSSS they are HEATED SEATs. the issue is i dont know how to wire up the seats. anyone know how???

 

You will need a switch to turn them on, and fused power that will handle the current of the heater. Any idea how much current they will pull?

 

Wow, nice find, Checketts....

PERSONALLY, for now, I would wire up an 'Add-a-Fuse' tap in on the driver side kick panel.... I put mine in here......



Then leaves, as rightly put by Wii.... "the switch", unless you want them always hot? I always start with the 'SWITCHED' spot, or try to, because then I can determine how far to the switch, how far to the battery from WHATEVER I'm trying to power.

I would also install a relay AND switch.... This means you'll need power from the battery to the relay... But you'll also need switched power(add a fuse line), a switch and wire to the seat(s).

Just look for a pic in google for "How to install off road lights with a relay and switch"... and just put the seats in place of the lights.... voila!



Here's where I ran the wiring to the switch(you want the switch running off that add-a-fuse so that it's not always hot... thus, it's IMPOSSIBLE to leave them on with the covers on with your ignition off...Key has to be in "ON or at least "ACC" position).....



Switched installed... (YOu can use ANY size/type switch you want... Just start searching)......



Used a 30A fuse off the battery to the Relay for the constant hot wire....



Here's the relay I put in for the 'switched power' lights on my bumper guard.......



Shouldn't cost you much in the end... But I would NEVER run anything anymore without a relay, not things like this... That way, the relay and fuse from the battery to relay take the abuse and it is less likely to blow the fuse than when you run it without the relay... it's also gonna keep you from leaving the seat heaters on when leaving the truck... Which COULD LEAD TO ''TRUCK IN FLAMES" SYNDROME! Don't want that, right?

 

great thread..keep it going....first my horn didnt work wired it with a little push botton and also my window washer...mounted bost seat in the x cab(tight fite) so my kids had a place)cold air intake now working on the snorkle...sanded all the pelling pant from the inside from first owner and repanted with bed liner....next is a metal wind deflector so my sun roof will quite trying to take flight...the best and cheapest was trading my 2x wheels and tires for some better 1s.....

 

Subaru seats:
Download the wire schematic for the forester, then you can wire it up like chef suggested, but I'd wire the relay to the ignition so you don't leave it on and drain the battery. As suggested you will need power from a fused battery source.