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Trailer led interior light as dome light $6 from walmart & extremely bright 40,000 btu school bus heater with home made mounting brackets $ can't remember exact cost but cheap
80's camaro bucket seats & F150 center console $ free from a buddy Ford FL1A oil filter for just a touch more capacity on the 22r Yellow metric grease gun hose for front diff breather ebay $7ish its like 36" - 48" long? cant remember screwed right in so the thread pitch was perfect. Plus a 2nd fire exting. Just in case Dimond plate floor boards $25 ( dirty as usual ) Pvc collars & great stuff foam sealant for the school bus heater house routing Led clearance lights used as front blinkers inside the factory housing $5.56 tractor supply ( they blink fast but are bright )
Last edited by ToyOkie78; 03-14-2019 at 11:19 AM.
Reason: Spelling error
I bought a pair of those Amber lights to on my plastic bumper end corners. There is a factory hole right there to access a nut. Fits right in. I want it to be a side marker and a blinker. There is no Side blinkers on my 1988. The blinkers face forward only on the front bumper. Couple bucks for the pair on ebay.
Found a pair of new- Hella Supertonehorns on eBay for a good price.
With some bits I already had- 16 gauge wire, wire loom, variety of electrical connectors, & shrink-wrap tubing this project came in around $50.00.
Not too shabby! Looks and sounds much better.
I didn't enjoy cutting into the OEM wires and removing the OEM horn connector... I will live.
Here is another cheap mod - under $20!
With the truck lacking cup holders, I have found a cheap reliable option- a sister company of Texas Saddlebag Inc, MoblOrg, offers their 'clutter-catcher' series of consoles. Turns out the 'Contour Seat and Floor Console' model fits perfectly after some reshaping.
As seen in the After picture below, this fits snug and out of the way, but provides easy access to your beverage of choice.
It comes a little long and bulky, so a series of pocket-knife, box cutter and/or fine toothed saw is needed to get the correct shape. After 15 minutes of carving it fits well w/ no unwanted movement or wear to the underside of the seat.
The best part... these are sold for $9.99 through their website. Hard to beat the price!
(Above) Stock- Before Installation - (Below) After Installation
Cheap and Simple Improvement - paint hardware -
This weekend I took advantage of the nice weather and painted the OEM mud-flap hardware, while I had it off, and threw on a clear coat for good measure.
Cost me next to nothing, and looks much better in my opinion!
Ford FL1A oil filter for just a touch more capacity
IIRC, the larger oil filter does not allow the proper oil pressure for this engine and linked to premature timing chain destruction. I learned this the hard way back in the early 90s. I’d only run OEM style filters now.
Want more capacity, put an oil cooler on, they are pretty cheap and come in various styles.
IIRC, the larger oil filter does not allow the proper oil pressure for this engine and linked to premature timing chain destruction. I learned this the hard way back in the early 90s. I’d only run OEM style filters now.
Want more capacity, put an oil cooler on, they are pretty cheap and come in various styles.
When I bought my 87 pickup back in 88, it had 32,000 mi on it. On the advice of the professional mechanics at where I worked, I switched to the Fram PH-8A filter. A few years later, I did some research on the net, and found out that the Purolator version of the same size filter worked much better, so I switched to that. The Pureone PL30001. I've been using it on both my vehicles ever since. The pickup still has the factory timing chain in it, although the 4Runner's has been replaced once. The pickup's timing chain is a bit stretched now, at 325,000 mi, but still works fine. I use Castrol Syntec 10W30 in both vehicles, and change it at every 5,000 miles, or 2 years, whichever comes first.
I drive them both a lot less now that I'm forcibly retired due to medical troubles.
Point is, that the Pureone filter has been working quite well on the pickup for about 250,000 miles now. I'm going to stick with it.
I just wanted to drop one anecdotal evidence into the discussion. I haven't done any real, scientific, profession type tests on either of my trucks, but if it's worked this well for this long, it's good enough for me. It does keep the oil in both vehicles looking much clearer than the Fram did...
Just my 2 cents, probably about what it's worth
Pat☺
IIRC, the larger oil filter does not allow the proper oil pressure for this engine and linked to premature timing chain destruction. I learned this the hard way back in the early 90s. I’d only run OEM style filters now.
Want more capacity, put an oil cooler on, they are pretty cheap and come in various styles.
The early Toyota filter for 20 series engines was large like the Fram PH-8A and Motorcraft FL-1A It's part number is : 15601-44011 Made in Japan.
This filter is also marked: Denso 115010-0525
Toyota and filter manufacturers made the filters smaller so that a lesser number of filter models could be fitted to the greatest number of applications.
I believe these are long out of production, but they can sometimes still be found NOS. I was able to score a case of them last year.
Cheap and Simple Improvement - paint hardware -
This weekend I took advantage of the nice weather and painted the OEM mud-flap hardware, while I had it off, and threw on a clear coat for good measure.
Cost me next to nothing, and looks much better in my opinion!
I have one passenger mudflap bracket that was on my parts truck. Should get around to making a driver side and hanging some mud flaps…they make a huge difference in road rash…
After almost a year of riding around with my ghetto prototype, I finally got around to fabbing up some legit cupholders. Just needs a little touch up and then off to powder coat. I drew it up in Solidworks and then cut all pieces by hand with die grinders, etc. (Didn't have access to the laser cutter for this project so no being spoiled lol).
03-23-2016, 02:55 PM
Cheap Mod - Horn Upgrade
