I'm going to be pulling the rear diff on my '83 some time soon. I think it's the cause of my noises...guess I'll find out.

Anyways I've looked up some write-ups on pulling the rear axle shafts etc., but I still have some questions. Should I just spray the heck out of the "new" 3rd with brake cleaner, or is there anything more I should do to clean it up? What should I used to seal it? Buy a new gasket? Reuse the old one? I've seen photos of some blue rtv-like stuff being used?

With the rear axles...what suggestions do you have? Will I need to replace the axle seals? Would you worry about the bearings? Seems like while I'm in there I might as well get Marlin's rear axle kit (if I can save more money...), but it looks like getting the bearings off will be a real pain. I have no gear oil leaks back there but wonder if I'll damage the seals pulling & replacing the axle shafts.

Other general advice? I've never pulled front or rear axles or a third, so any tips/tricks that you think might be helpful are appreciated.

 

I sprayed the heck out of the my "new" old third before the install. The object is to get rid of all that dirt and grit that accumulated on the third while it was on the shelf at the wreckers.

I've used gray and black RTV instead of a gasket- never had a leak. The gray stuff hardens up a bit more, while the black stays a little more flexible. Neither leaked. I've probably use black if I did it again, but I don't have a strong reason to do so. Never used blue.

 

I have used the red permatex on mine.... no problems so far...

 

Great thanks. I think the blue stuff was not rtv, just rtv-like...

Possibly something specially made for the purpose, but I remember who posted the photo showing it so I'll just ask him if I think I need to.

Any advice on the rest of it? Seals, bearings etc.?

 

If it aint broke, dont fix it.


Get a pack of vacuum caps and fit them over the brake lines so you don't loose all your fluid and make a mess.

Carefully support the weight of the axle assembly as you slide it in and out so you dont damage the seal. You dont want it to rest on the seal and deform it, could cause leaks.

Now is a good time to flush your brake fluid. Get some clear tubing and a snapple bottle. Run the hose into the bottle, submerged in clean brake fluid, open up the bleeder, and pump and pump, keep going until you have clean fluid in the bottle. Do this at all 4 corners and LSPV. Or just gravity feed all 4 with a tube into a bucket. Just keep the master topped off with fresh fluid.


Did you count the teeth on the r/p to make SURE its the same ratio? Check over each and every tooth for damage.

 

I haven't even taken it out of the box yet...but I'll check it. I guess I shouldn't just blindly trust the guy I got it from (got it from this site) so I'll look it over but I am assuming it's correct for my truck. Supposedly came out of an 87 runner.

Ok thanks. I was figuring the seals and bearings have to go out at some point..so why not replace, but I can't really afford the rear axle kit right now and mostly just want my truck reliable for hunting season and winter, so I guess I'll try just replacing the 3rd.

 

Just look the bearings over to see if they are good. Spin them around and check to see if they spin smoothly.

 

It would probably be a good idea to just go ahead and replace the rear axle bearings and seals, when i pulled the rear end apart in my 86 4Runner to install a locker the bearings were so bad that i could wiggle them a 1/4'' in any direction, so i replaced the bearings and seals.

 

Alright. I'll just pull it apart and see if they need it. I'd like to replace all that stuff, but can't really afford the $160 or so for the rear axle service kit Marlin sells. Would be a good idea to have stuff on hand in case I need it...but I'm going to chance that one. I'd like to do it all now, but I guess I'll hopefully be able to put it off for now. I just want to get rid of this noise that is hopefully my rear diff so I can trust my truck to get me out of town again!

 

Ok, so as a checklist, I'll need on hand:

brake fluid
rags
GL5
brake cleaner
brake line close-offs
black rtv
new used 3rd
......

FSM doesn't say anything about replacing a gasket or washers or anything (I will use rtv, though), so I guess I can just put everything back together without replacing things?

 

Juuuuust making sure...this piece should be straight, right? So I just need to loosen the bolt, straighten it out, tighten it back down. Just want to make absolutely sure.

 

Nobody's had one of these apart?

 

Ok, well, I got an answer. Seems that as long as it's holding the piece in place, it's fine. Anybody disagree with that? I had to post on Pirate to get an answer for this people! Pirate!!

 

I agree, as long as its holding, its fine.

 

Thanks

 

So...vacuum caps. That's what they'd be called at the parts store? The guy there...nice guy, but he was just sure that my brake fittings would be SAE, really doubted they'd be metric. Am I crazy, or is that crazy?

Anyway, he knew of nothing that would cap off the open brake lines. Same guy who, when I went in before looking for different NGLI chassis greases, he was reading the wrong #'s off to me. "They're all one". No, actually they're all two, I don't remember which number he was reading but it wasn't the right one.

 

Kick that guy in the crotch.

Yes, vacuum caps. Thats what they are called. The ones I have are multi color and multi sized. I have a pack of them I could take a pic of.

Your brake lines ARE metric, NOT SAE

 

Vacuum caps

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/fullfloater/2.jpg

Dorman part number 47397 or 47396

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-47397/

HELP part number 47388 or 40150

Holly part number 26-105

Spectre part number 4254

All of these are available at autozone

 

Sweet. Thaaaank you. Planning to finally do it this weekend.

I did buy the metric wrenches right then, I wasn't buying his SAE stuff.

 

If it's only the third that needs pulled, leave the axle housing in place, IMO.

That'll save a lot of messy and heavy work.