Interesting oil filter info
03-10-2010, 08:03 AM
#1
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Interesting oil filter info
This link had some of the best oil filter info I've seen, its aimed at Taurus SHO engine owners (Yamaha engines made with very tight engine clearances) but the basics are interesting. I learned somethings from it 
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart1.htm
I quote from page 2: http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart2.htm
I can confirm that the over-sized Napa Gold filters (1516) I've been using for my Toyota have the bypass at the top:
1) anti drain back valve
2) Top bypass valve
3) metal end caps
4) real compression spring
These filters are normally in the $5-$6 range, but twice a year they run a 40% off sale on them and can be bought for about $3. That's when I stock up on them.
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart1.htmI quote from page 2: http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart2.htm
When excessive pressure exists across the filter medium a bypass valve opens permitting dirty oil to by-pass the filter medium preventing oil starvation at the bearings. Some oil filters have the by pass on top near the inlet (as illustrated), other designs have the by pass on the far end of the element or the bottom.
This design does not meet Ford standards for three reasons. With dirt and metal chips collecting on the far end of the filter if the by pass valve is located down there it will be swept up when the bypass valve immediately above it opens. Oil coming from the engine washes over the dirty side of the filter media when the bottom by pass valve is open. A top bypass oil filter passes unfiltered oil to the engine but a bottom bypass filter washes dirt off the filter add it to the dirt load in the unfiltered oil and hits the bearings with a much greater amount of debris - at least in theory! The last strike against bottom bypass filters is the problem with ice. In theory, the dome end of the oil filter should be the lowest point of the lubrication system and it work as a place to collect excess moisture and water. If water was in the bottom of the filter and froze it could either obstruct or freeze the bypass valve closed. The PureOne by Purolator has a bottom bypass valve, but the Motorcraft, made my Purolator for Ford has a top bypass valve.
This design does not meet Ford standards for three reasons. With dirt and metal chips collecting on the far end of the filter if the by pass valve is located down there it will be swept up when the bypass valve immediately above it opens. Oil coming from the engine washes over the dirty side of the filter media when the bottom by pass valve is open. A top bypass oil filter passes unfiltered oil to the engine but a bottom bypass filter washes dirt off the filter add it to the dirt load in the unfiltered oil and hits the bearings with a much greater amount of debris - at least in theory! The last strike against bottom bypass filters is the problem with ice. In theory, the dome end of the oil filter should be the lowest point of the lubrication system and it work as a place to collect excess moisture and water. If water was in the bottom of the filter and froze it could either obstruct or freeze the bypass valve closed. The PureOne by Purolator has a bottom bypass valve, but the Motorcraft, made my Purolator for Ford has a top bypass valve.
1) anti drain back valve
2) Top bypass valve
3) metal end caps
4) real compression spring
These filters are normally in the $5-$6 range, but twice a year they run a 40% off sale on them and can be bought for about $3. That's when I stock up on them.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-10-2010 at 08:05 AM.
03-10-2010, 10:19 AM
#2
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I found this quote rather shocking 
Depending on the filter it may also be true that we are in full bypass mode anytime the engine is running over 3000 rpm and the secondaries are open - even with a warm motor and clean oil!
03-12-2010, 09:20 AM
#3
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Contrast the Napa Gold pics above with this Fram:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...4&nt=10&page=1
And this is what can happen with cardboard end caps (and probably a non-working bypass valve): http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?...ilter-failure/
...
And this is why cheap can cost more in the long run: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-engine-89360/
...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...4&nt=10&page=1
And this is what can happen with cardboard end caps (and probably a non-working bypass valve): http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?...ilter-failure/
...
And this is why cheap can cost more in the long run: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-engine-89360/
...
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-12-2010 at 09:30 AM.
03-12-2010, 10:44 AM
#4
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Here's an AC Delco PF53 (E-core) from this thread (3200 mile OCI) :
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...02#Post1806202
Looks like it had to make its own "bypass" hole, wonder how starved the bearings were for oil until the "bypass" hole opened up lol.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...02#Post1806202
Looks like it had to make its own "bypass" hole, wonder how starved the bearings were for oil until the "bypass" hole opened up lol.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-12-2010 at 11:10 AM.
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03-12-2010, 02:18 PM
#13
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03-12-2010, 02:26 PM
#15
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Found some in this thread. Looks like a great filter, but has a bottom bypass valve. That might not be so bad though the way Toyota filters are mounted almost upside down. IMHO the worst would be a bottom bypass filter with the filter mounted so the bypass was at the lowest point (where dirt would settle). : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1764643&page=1
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-12-2010 at 02:43 PM.
03-12-2010, 04:46 PM
#18
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I'll stick with my toyota tundra 4.7 filter
Cost the same as the v6/22re filter but about an inch longer.
Run them on my v6 truck and 4cyl 4runner.
Cost the same as the v6/22re filter but about an inch longer.
Run them on my v6 truck and 4cyl 4runner.
