I'm new to the whole IFS thing. I've had 2 straight axle 85's but after the last runner was stolen I got an 87 runner.

Any one know of or can boil down how the IFS system work. I can somewhat figure how the torsion bar thing works but only sort of. And how do lifts work? Basically, what are the available lift types out there for suspension and what are the best. I've seen the suspension lifts that just lower the A-arm brackets I don't like that. Not much clearance picked up.
And I've seen longer A-arms and shafts I like the clearance gains there but looks dangerous for 70+mph freeway driving. Anyone able to boil down the concepts and add a couple opinions for me? thanks.

 

The longer A arms of Long Travel kits are very good because: wider stance, more lift with little change in angle (due to the geometry of adding longer arms). Speed is not an issue with long travel - it's what it was built for and handles superbly.

As for IFS, you have the upper and lower arms or double wishbone IFS that has a strut or a coil/shock assembly that limits movement of the arms. With your '87 runner you have struts, which acts as both the leaf pack and shock in a SA situation. IFS lifts work by pushing down the lower arm more and adding a longer-stroke strut that allows the arms to move more.

The "drop bracket" lifts you're talking about do nothing except lift your truck of course and maintain the same amount of travel in your suspension. And you're right - they don't offer any more clearance because then you'd have this 3" bar underneath your truck.

Somebody else who's familiar with your IFS type is gonna have to chime in with advice though. I know about as much about '87 runners as Albert Einstein knew about fashion

 

Well first, you're going to be spending alot of money or time if you want an IFS that works. The standard "kits" that superlift/trailmaster/pro comp sell are all "drop brackets" and like you said they drop the center diff to keep the cv joints and birfields at a minimum angle. The lift is really from spacers that go in between the upper ball joint and steering knuckle/spindle mount. That's the short of it.

The long arm travel kits you talk about are all about high speed and will make your truck handle better with added hight than it did stock. The two issues are in the cost of the arms and the cost of new half axles. Right now as much as I hate to say it, Downey's new kit looks good overall. You gain travel without the really wide stance and you run ball joints. Which IMO are better for a road/trail rig that doesn't see race speeds. BUT I would like to see what lift that kit gives, cuase Downey seems to over advertise hight. OR you can do like me and be spending ALOT of time trying to get a low cost solution working.....ugh.

 

IFS lift = $1200+

SA conversion = $1200+

If you know a welder, SAS your rig. Don't spend the money on mall crawl suspension. Remove/replace the IFS with a SA.

Well, only do it if you want that sort of radical improvement. I'm choosing to not lift my '98 Taco's IFS; instead, I will SAS her in a while (once the SAS money tree grows big enough) because lifting the IFS is simply not worth it to me.

There are about a billion writeups on Yotatech about SASes, kits to assist (sans axle, in most cases) from Marlin Crawler, All Pro Off Road, and more located elsewhere on the 'net. Just Google it if you can't find all you need on this site.

Oh, and by the way, torsion bars preload your a-arms so a standard position is set for your a-arms to flex to with only the weight of the truck on them. They also assist, along with your struts, in dampening the movement of your wheels, because one end is fixed to the frame, and the other is fixed to the control arm. The control arm moves, the torsion bar twists, adding resistance because it wants to return to it's fixed position, and so it is.

Donny

 

How much rock crawlin are you gonna do? My stock 98 takes me 90% of the places I want to go with no problem. I plan on getting a lift but just enough to fit 285/75s. It's still gonna cost $1400 bucks but after what I took my truck through last weekend, I think it will be enough.

 

Donny thanks for the torsion bar info. Wasn't sure if they worked off torque(twist) or if there was a spring or "rubber" like bushing in the frame mount that was the source of the "force".

Anyway, I'm a not asking for "trail" crawling set up. And after 2 85's I know the security and strength of a straight axle. But since an 85 wasn't avail when I was in the market I'm stuck with the IFS and I want to make the best of it.

My ultimate goal was always to add function but more then anything add strength. I do the camping/fishing/hunting/skiing thing mostly and don't see much off an excuss for a road. Hardly ever not on a dirt, gravel, skid, washboard, skiff, logging, powerline, ect road. If the "road" turns into "trail" that's usually my limit. I just want to make it bullet proof so as bad as the "road" gets I won't have a problem. 1,000 year old rock slides..... I'm sure I can find a road around to the top. But hat's off for sure to thoughs who go straight up.

Anyway, without any IFS background what's the strongest lift "therory" to handle low speed off ROAD use??? I guess that's my question. I'm only looking for 2" of lift to fit 33's maybe and get the gas tank up a touch more. The Total Chaos bolt on looks promising? Clearance and built to take high speed jolts I'll never see. Any thoughts?? Thanks people.

I've always built my trucks on a "swiss army truck" therory. Good for anything that will find you without looking for it.

 

It sounds like you should just try balljoint spacers and new shocks first. They will give you enough room for 33's with no trimming. In fact my second gen has the swaybar removed, 33x12.5's and I haven't even pounded the pinchweld yet. I hardly get any rubbing. Also, get manual hubs with any of the lifts. For what you are describing the use of your truck, why spend more than you have too. There are plenty of people out there running hard trails with this setup. I think AxleIke has this setup on a first gen. If you want to spend that much money on the IFS use it for a locker and gears.

 

Yep

If I was gonna be doing what your doing i'd just go with the balljoint spacers and a 1 or 2" body lift then throw those 33's on there, and if you do occasionally 4wd add a quick disconnect to your swaybar. Honestly though by the way you make it sound, you dont even need the 33's, you could just grab you a nice set of 31's and not need to do anything to the truck.