Alright so I have dropped a pretty penny into an IFS lift and some coils but now I am just rubbing my tires once and awhile. Seeing how I am still paying off my front coils and IFS lift I did a bit of looking around and wonder. I cannot spend too much more right now and I hear alot of guy making there own body lifts or "hockey puck" lifts as I hear. Has any 4runner owners made there own body lifts? From what I am getting is that you can do a 2" Body lift without mods except for some type of spacers and longer body mount bolts.

 

DO NOT TRY AND MAKE YOUR OWN BODY LIFT PUCKS the hockey puck idea works for awhile, but it is rubber, and nowhere near the strength required to safely support a truck body...

check out www.4crawler.com he sells body lifts pretty cheap and his site has tons of information on it... his body lifts are custom made and are a lot more beefy than the commercial ones made today by other companies....

 

theyre about 100 somethin and there eZ to install cant beat 4crawler

 

I made myself a 1" BL using 2.5" diameter aluminum. It only cost me about $30 for the aluminum and new bolts, and took a couple of hours. If you have the right equipment I would say that you could easily make one, otherwise it would probably be best to get one of the kits from 4Crawler.

 

 

make them out of blocks of pressure treated wood. would you believe that i seen a schevy blazer in a parking lot with 4x4 clucks of wood for body blocks. atleast they where painted black

 

4x4 wood blocks are actually pretty strong believe it or not.... much stronger than the hockey puck idea... .however still not too safe for a bodylift subjected to the elements... wood will rot after awhile......

 

where are you rubbing? if it's the inner fender, pound the pinch weld flat. if it's the valance, cut it. they're only plastic...

 

awesome website that answered tons of my questions! I think I might try the aluminum blocks and some good grade 8 bolts, it seems the cheapest and plus it gives me bragging rights thanks!!!!!

 

4Crawler is awesome...

But if you are a DIY and you want to save a few bucks go to US Plastics and buy the same stuff roger uses UHMW round stock.

 

I made my own 1" lift many years ago:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#BodyLift
Then I re-did it in UHMW.

I also offer any of the body lift kit parts as separate items, if you want just the blocks, you can supply the rest of the parts (bolts, etc.) yourself. You can get the std. size blocks, 2" tall for $50 or the larger dia. ultimate blocks for $62:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft.shtml#GenII

Or the raw UHMW rod can be supplied if you want to cut and machine your own blocks. Aluminum also works, I only use it for 1" blocks, but if you have the time and machinery you can machine it in taller blocks. With alum. you should somehow treat the faces with something to prevent galvanic corrosion with the body sheet metal.

 

During the last trail run, I found 2 homemade bl spacers laying on the trail about 4 miles in. I would hate to be the guys who lost those. Phew, it must have been a long walk out.
just my 2 pennies.

 

Yep, that is why choice of material is important. One reason I like UHMW is that it is rated as unbreakable as far as impact strength goes. And it is the same material that they may the new winch rope out of. Had a guy in my club lose a body lift spacer on his Jeep, one of those extruded fiberglass kind. I made him a replacement block out of UHMW. He probably should have replaced them all, but he is the type that if "it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

i made my own bodylift out of a stick of polyethermide that i got for free.

another thing to consider when choosing a material, especially plastics is the temperature range in which it will be operating.

 

I see lots of posts from folks who've done their own lifts. I'm about to do a lift of my '86 4Runner with DIY UHMW pucks; can anybody here set me up with info about what the bolt length is? Either the stock length or the length you used for a lift of X inches. Yeah, I can just take the stockers apart and measure them, but I'd rather go to my fastener supplier before starting the job, instead of in the middle... thanky... Skrape.