So, I need to change my rear diff oil, but the fill plug is rounded off. I've heard of welding a bolt to it and using that to remove the plug, but I don't have access to a welder. I was wondering, can I JB Weld a bolt on? I've heard it's strong but never used it. Or have you guys got any other ideas? Worst case scenario, I take it to a shop and have them do it, but I'm cheap, and stubborn.

 

i had this problem with my Tcase fill plug, i just got a smaller 6 point socket and hit it on their with a rubber hammer then i used my impact gun to get it off, it worked really good for me.

 

The JB weld is an awesome product, but not for what you want to do. Is the plug already rounded off? if so you may try something like a locking lugnut removal tool. The screw on type when you don't have the key and will throw the nut away. Don't take it out until you have a new one to install. You can get a better one from somebody on the forums. I think WabFab? But I am not sure right now do a search.

 

Sears has those bolt out things, but not sure if they come big enough:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

The other thing you can do is Dremel a slot into the plug so that you can remove it with a flat screwdriver.

 

Man I have no idea how, but mine is the same as yours. ANYWAY, I just fill my diff through the breather hole, after removing it. I know to put in exactly 2.5 quarts, and hope that's what it stays at, closely watching for leaks. I have an extra filler hole plug and intend on getting the tap and die needed to redo it. Lord, help whoever tries gettin yours off, if it's as bad as mine, NOT GOIN' NOWHERE. I found the correct tap and die on some toyota 4x4 website I can't recall right now.

 

That won't hurt anything either. Provided you put what you should back in. I would probably put about a fifth as much more just to be sure.

 

If you have a good chisel and hammer try loosening it by placing the chisel on the bolt and hitting it with the hammer a few good times. Counterclockwise of course. If you have a corner left on the bolt, place the chisel as close to the corner as possible. Usually a few good whacks will break it loose and then you can use pliers or some vice grips to take it off.

 

Also, if you have some PB blaster, you might to spray it liberally and let it soak in a good while-overnight preferably. That may help some too.

 

Just wanted to note, not a wood chisel, a cold chisel!

I have bolt off's they came in handy a few times already. Sear's ones are $$ I bought irwin ones from the depot.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=diff+plug

 

See if you can find someone local with a welder. You can have the nut welded on then try to remove it later. Did that on my buddy's truck, he stopped by and we welded on a large nut on the stripped plug, then he drove home to change the oil some days later.

 

If you end up replacing the plug with a new stock one, buy yourself a 6 sided 24mil (right size i think....??). Mine was stuck on there as well, but after applying a crapload of antiseize, the right socket, one sexy breaker bar, and a bfh it came off without too much more difficulty... Mind you mine wasn't rounded off though. Good luck getting it off...

 

How about some channel locks or vice grips like mentioned above?

Rob

 

Mine was stuck too and my mechanic told me he got it off with a chisel. I would try that first.

Then take a look at http://www.wabfab.org/products/diffe...ferentials.htm
and get a more-better replacement plug.

 

It's an awfully thin bolt - not a whole lot to grab onto - that's why they get rounded in the first place, but worth a shot.

Yes, it's a 24mm

 

You need to replace the OEM with some of these:


Magnetic Drain Plug
Magnetic Drain Plugs are a great way of keeping metal from building up in the oil. Low profile design uses recessed 10mm Allen socket. Your choice of Aluminum or steel washers. Aluminum washers are designed for transfer cases, and aluminum transmissions (G, W & R series). Steel washer is designed for axle housings and steel transmissions (L series).

http://www.wabfab.org/products/diffe...ferentials.htm

 

I have a similar "Allen" plug on my front diff. It's frozen in place. Can it have a bolt welded to it, too?

 

Just be careful not to weld it so much that it welds the frozen bolt into the hole.

The key to drain plugs is not to tighten the ever loving bajeesus out of them when you put them back on...snug is all you need...and replace the CRUSH washer if you reuse the plug...it is cheap smart insurance and IMO most folks' problem...other than using the wrong tool and overtightening.

Those hex head drain plugs are a nightmare waiting to happen.

 

I got this done at midas since my front diff plug was frozen and the allen hole rounded.

 

I picked up a plug like above today from the local dealership, and I'm gonna go to a mechanic tommorow and have them weld a nut on so I can get the old one out. They are going to charge me the same as the easy-out bolt remover thing was going to cost me, and save me some time, and swearing. Thanks for the help.