Has anybody bought these ball joint spacers and diff drop kit before? Are all ball joint spacers pretty much the same as far as material used?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007TWOL20

 

Yes, I have that same kit on my 1993 pickup. It's a nice kit. I didn't buy it from Amazon, though. I got it from ebay. It's the same price, but the shipping is free.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-IFS-Pickup-4Runner-2-5-Front-Lift-Kit-4WD-/270441652053?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AToyota%7CYear%3A1993&hash=item3ef7941f55&vxp=mtr
You might know, but I'll say it anyway, don't expect 2.5" of lift from just bolting on the spacers. The spacers are only 1.5" so you'll only get 1.5" of lift. If you want 2.5" of total lift, you will have to crank the torsion bars, which I and almost everyone on here will not recommend.

 

Did you get the one with the diff drop and ya I know I have been reading up on them. And have you had any problems? I have been reading a lot of people have problems with the idler arm which makes me skeptical on buying them

 

if lifting the front more than say 2" then the diff drop might be a good idea as it will reduce your CV angles back down after lifting. the downside is that you might not be able to fit an IFS truss underneath the diff if you choose to brace everything with one of those. as for the idler arm, you're changing angles of operation from what it's used to for the past XX amount of years, it's a good idea to make sure everything is in good condition any time you make a major change like this: idler arm, ball joints, tie rods, rod ends, etc.

 

I installed a new idler arm, tie rod ends, and new ball joints the same time I did the lift. The idler arm is still tight, but the ball joints wore out after about 5 months. However, they were crappy ebay ball joints. I installed a set of Moogs and haven't had any issue since. That was 10 months ago.

 

Okay thanks for the info where did you order all your parts from?

 

doesn't matter where you get your parts from, just don't skimp out and buy chinese crappy parts - get either Japan-made or USA made parts, they have much better build quality and higher standards. Usually the reputable parts are going to be Genuine Toyota parts or an OEM manufacturer like Sankei 555 brand. Moog used to be high ranking, but in recent years I've heard there's a decline.

 

get your stuff from 4crawler. You want billet balljoint spacers. moog front end parts. The duralast idler arm is well rated from 4 cralwer iirc. They toyota tie rods are good and not too bad. Diff drop doenst affect any truss....

Last thing to play with is your front end at 70 mph.

 

My Moog parts came straight from Moog. The ball joint spacers came from the link I provided.

 

You all are playing with fire w/ the nowly cheaply manufactured Chinese Moog parts...

Make sure you're getting genuine 4wd ball joints and not the same item number 2wd/4wd ball joints... Big difference in ball socket strength. I'd stick w/ OEM ball joints were it me.

For pitman arm and idler arm I went with 555/Raybestos professional (item manufacturer, boxed seller), but probably should have gone with the duralast idler that can install the brass bushings...

TRE's I went with Deeza which are great -- much prefer them to the Moog I compared.

And check out Blazeland's tie rod sleeve -- better than cheap aftermarket and stronger than OEM too...

 

When dealing with spacers, you can buy the cheaper Amazon parts, though I would suggest going through a reputable source like 4Crawler or NWOR or similar, just for the knowledgable staff(hopefully) and customer service associated with that. As for suspension/steering components, ONLY go with OEM.. Unless you're planning something custom like Long Travel or only need the parts for a short time. Numerous cases of Moog parts biting the dust well before they should, as well as Moog parts showing a definite lack of quality in comparison to OEM parts.

 

[QUOTE=HighLux;. Diff drop doenst affect any truss....

Diff drop won't work with a Downey or Sonoan Steel IFS truss.