hellfire

Hi guys, I have recently rebuilt the swivel hubs and replaced the wheel bearings with all new units... The left side is fine, but after about 4000km the right side nuts keep coming loose and making an awful grinding sound intermittently while driving...

Is there any difference between the two 54mm nuts, should one go after the other? I have also bent the tabs on the locking washer which doesn't help at all..

Please help, my daily driver Toyota Starlet hatchback was written off by an old lady in a Mercedes Benz, I am driving my truck to work and it's only a weekender rig which isn't all that suited to the freeway...

I just got home from work, it's dark out and it's nearly the middle of winter but I'll be out there workin on the truck.. Man this week isn't looking so great

Mr.Utah

There are pages and pages of posts re front bearing and rotor preload, do a search and check some of them out.

Are you torquing down the two nuts properly? both nuts are the same I think, but you only torque and preload with the first nut on to something like 43 ft lbs, spin tire, back off torque, spin tire, re torque. Put second nut on after lock ring, second nut is only torqued to 18 ft lbs or so.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Wheel bearing. Big washer. 54mm nut. Torque. Star washer. 54mm nut. Torque. Bend tabs. One tab in. One tab out. The star washer holds the 54mm nuts as a double nut. If done right no way it should get loose.

:wabbit2:

blake.nemitz

sounds like your missing the big washer and the tire turning is backing off your nut, i would check the other side to make sure its not too tight if its also missing the washer

xxxtreme22r

I'll have to go with wabbit and blake on this one, without reading the thread and going by thread title my first instinct was the lack of or failure to "stake" the star washers.

hellfire

Ok I took the time to properly torque the nuts, but the axle itselt has alot of movement I am thinking something has failed, the fresh grease I put in has turned a dark brown and smells burnt, all of the components I replaced have turned a horrible brown colour even after cleaning them off with a rag.. Back to the start again..

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the correct grease when you packed the bearings?

I 2nd what wabbit said done correct it can`t come loose.

But if the bearing was starting to fail there could be now enough clearance that it would feel like it was loose.

pictures would be a big help

hellfire

Well it was pointless trying to pull it apart in the dark, but I got the rotor off and found a mixture of grease that had turned black, hard and gritty aswell as an exploded bearing... All the rollers fell out when I removed the orange seal off the back of the rotor...






I am patching this up and selling the truck... I noticed I have a considerable oil leak from the front of my 22R, it has dripped alot of oil whilst sitting.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Well that would explain why it felt loose all right!!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

perfect example of lack of proper maintanance...gotta pack those bearings again after a water crossing...

drew303

I wouldn't say its lack of proper maintenance. You torque the first nut and spin the wheel, release the nut, spin, torque etc to release hydraulic pressure in the bearings caused by fresh grease so you dont get a false torque reading. Otherwise the bearings become loose as the grease settles.

I've done hundreds of these hubs solid and ifs and have had this occur. Experience comes at a price

Its a good idea to replace the axle nuts and washers if they're damaged, I've seen some Really abused gittups. (People who have chiseled the nuts on/off ugh!)

xxxtreme22r

One of the few times I'll have to disagree with ya man. Since doing my brakes over a year and a half ago, I've done water crossings and mud holes at Rausch creek twice and 3 mud bogs. And this was still on the old wheel bearings. I never did change them like everyone recommends. Not once have I had a problem. As long as the rear axle seal and the gaskets on the hubs are in good condition I don't see how enough water, dirt, etc etc can get in there and toast his bearing like that. But then again, maybe it's because I used the waterproof grease on mine. I can't remember which one I used in that spot though, but I mainly use 1 and that's the Sta-Lube Marine Bearing grease, but I also have a can of #2 Mystik Hi-Temp Multi Purpose grease here as well which I might have used on them. If I did, then that stuff isn't waterproof. I'd be more inclined to say he used the wrong grease in there.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

"Normal" 4000km don't do that to a wheel bearing.
Even in nasty conditions your wheel bearings shouldn't look like a mud bog on the inside.
More than a failed wheel bearing going on here.

My guesses:
Reused old seals or didn't use any at all
Cheap ass grease or not enough
Never seated wheel bearing properly
Cookies
Or a combination of them all.

22Rs always leak.

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

oh yeah, I also reused my old rear (inner?) seal as well. Oh and I "packed" them by hand and not with a bearing packer.
Not quite 10,000 miles on mine though.
I guess I will have to check when I decide to hack up my dust shields.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

So you've beat the odds. For the cost of those parts it's pretty stupid to reuse them.

:wabbit2:

xxxtreme22r

haha yeah yeah, I know. When I did them I was somewhat in a hurry to get em done. But as far as cost goes, I replaced the front brakes and rotors and rear shoes all at the same time. I didn't even replace the drums when I probably should have. All new bearings would have been an addition $65 or so bucks for all 4. Almost $80 if I replaced the races too. I didn't have that kinda cash at the time. Especially since doing the brakes had already cost me about $100 already.