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work truck help, I will donate to the site!

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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #1  
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work truck help, I will donate to the site!

O.K. I want to keep this short and sweet. Help me reasonably and I will make a $15 donation to the site.

I have an 87 4x4 with a 22re? Carb'ed Back seems to sit low. I would be happy with an overall 1-2" lift but I want it to handle more weight because I actually use it a lot for work, pulling a trailer/etc. I dont want to change anything major for simplicity's sake not because I am overly cheap. The back actually sits lower or level with the front even with the very light plywood bed, that does not seem right? Maybe someone cranked the torsion bars before I got it but I cannot find a spec on stock ride height for an 87 4x4, door tag says 225/75/15 tires and I do not see that spec in any of my manuals.

If I can figure this part out I am thinking add a leafs, the better ones by skyjackker? I actually would prefer the back sit just a bit higher so it does not look goofy wen I pull my trailer. Then maybe ball joint spacers if relaxing the torsion bars drops the front?

Long story short its a fun daily driver I want to keep fun but make capable. Can I lift 2" or 3" without doing damage to other components? I plan on upgrading parts and bushings as I have time.

I will be happy to answer questions if I did not provide enough info. I really love this truck and even though I have two other vehicles I take this whenever I dont take the family with me. Bottom line dont care if it is a bit stiff. I want it to sit maybe an inch or two higher and want the back to handle some weight.

I really want to be able to measure stock ride height somehow.

Thanks for the newbie forum gents.

Z
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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donomite49's Avatar
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From: monroe nc
add a leafs should do what you want for the easiest/cheapest solution.

for a better ride/solution get new lift springs, then you have to do something to the front too.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Look here, lots of options
http://www.wabfab.org/IFS-Lift-Kits/...-products.html

:wabbit2:
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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I appreciate the quick replies Gents. I would really like to be able to tell if the rear springs or sagging and/or the front torsion bars are cranked. This would aid in my decision. Any sources for specs and where to measure? My manual is a little unclear and does not even list the tire size in my door jamb.

Thanks,

Z

Last edited by zspeed130; Oct 30, 2012 at 10:38 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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I hope that offer doesnt seem snobish or something> I am not trying to be condescending at all, just hate asking questions I could probably dig harder and find. I have honestly been looking at my manual
and searching for a couple hours and since this isn't a "project truck". I would just as soon get some answers and feel that is worth donating to the site if it benefits me.

Z
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:15 AM
  #6  
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From: Spokane, WA
You should be able to look at the leaf springs and be able to tell. They're probably pretty flat. The ones on my 87' 4runner were actually bowed backwards because they had sagged so much. I only had about 1/2 inch between the bump stop and the frame with nothing in the back. I agree with the others, look into some new springs for the rear and maybe some ball joint spacers for the front. If you're in a really cheap mood you might do a search on here for the "ZUK mod," you basically sandwich some coil springs in between the bump stop and the frame to get your height back. That's what i did on mine, and it works great! Not the greatest ride, and doesn't flex too well, but no more sag! Good luck!
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:21 AM
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From: greenville,wi
x2 on zuk mod!!!!
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:22 AM
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Funny thing is the springs look O.K. and I have 2 5/8" between the bump stop and the metal above it. If anybody knows the stock spec for that that would work. Or the spec they have with whatever lift they have. The fact the springs look O.K. is what makes me think the torsion bars might be cranked. I am showing about 10.5" between the ground and the axle just inside the lower control arms?

Thanks again, getting there!

Z
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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From: Earlysville, Va
Pics would help, but I'd go for a zuk mod
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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Ok, after some digging I found an article that says top of rim to fender bottom should be 13.5-14. I am at 13 3/4" so I guess the torsion bars may be gtg? Its funny because the springs look bowed correctly and to me it rally seems to be lower in the back then in the front.

Thinking add a leafs in the rear and maybe even a helper spring added to that cor capacity? I could always add a small block for looks if needed. I am thinking about the WABFAB lift with ball joint spacers>

The question still remains can you do a 2-3" lift without damaging other things? I know opinions vary on this. This is mostly a daily driver work truck. I do not want to risk damage but The more I look at everything 2" may be just right?
Thoughts,

Z
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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From: greenville,wi
i would crank the tortion bars down to make it even...it WILL definantly ride alot better.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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From: The Dirty South
I use my truck for work as well. I don't pull a trailer, but I have tools in the bed that weigh it down a bit. You should have three leaf springs and an overload spring in the rear. My main leafs ride on my overload, when they should be about 2-3" off the end of the overload spring tip. New springs are in the works for me, from Wabbit, but that's my solution. Your cheapest, best solution is the Zuk mod. Until you are ready to replace your rear springs. For the front I would crank your torsion bars until the bumpstop is in the middle of the range of movement.

As I side note, I priced Deaver rear springs, that fit in stock locations, for additional 300-500lbs of weight and they were about $900...

And a mild lift is fine for a daily driver work truck. I have a Rancho POS 4" lift, and I do about 50k miles/year.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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Good info! Thanks. I may actually have an issue then as my overload spring ( short flat spring on bottom?) is almost touching my bottom leaf. But they are so short I don't know how they would ride 2-3" away from that leaf?

Z
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #14  
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From: The Dirty South
Your springs are supposed to have more arch. But over time and heavy loads, they fatigue and settle. They then rest on the overload since its a short fat leaf and prevents the springs from sagging further. The overload is just doing its job. The other leafs are to blame for getting tired and losing their spring rate.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #15  
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Looks like I just need to pony up for new leafs and a set of ball joint spacers. I will take all the advise I can get but FYI I have ones a mod about donating. Thanks gents!
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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From: pensacola FL
Do the zuk mod, helps with sagg and better ability to tow
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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zuk mod would be best i just did it on my tacoma and same as you i use it alot for towing and work. I got a tool box thats full of tools and i carry some very heavy conveyer belts on it sometimes. I did the zuk mod since im a little short in cash at the moment and the truck feels a million times better on top of that it doesnt sag when i hook up the small trailer i tow around sometimes.
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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From: GWS,Colorado
x7 on ZUK Mod

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/rusteds-86-v8-runner-build-up-thread-250373/index6.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199.../#post51937513
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #19  
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Update, After doing much reading I think I am going to run the ZUK mod. Just so happens I decided the wifes 01 XJ cherokee needed an OME2.5" lift, so I will have some extra coil springs I came in to some 31's for the jeep and did not want to see them go to waste lol.

Thanks for all the advice. One more question. I have some decent brand new add a leafs that I believe will fit. Should I put them on and measure before the ZUK for even more capacity in back?

Z
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #20  
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From: Ofallon Missouri
Thought you were gonna donate....
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