Thanks! Got banned again I did.

Atleast this time it wasn't my fault...but I'm not at liberty to discuss that in detail.

Better than bein' throwed in jail for no reason though. Been there, done that. Everything else kinda pales in comparison, trust me.

 

O.k., I'm still a little confused here on the COR deal. Maybe you can shed some light on this.

A) Where's the capacitor/condensor in that diagram? Which I've cross-checked to see if it's right, and it is like every other one I can find. Because I'm 100% sure that there is one in there. But which I obviously don't know why it's there for, as I spoke too soon on that also.

Looks like this one, but green.


B) Where's the other coil/winding inside the COR? I'm 100% sure there's only one of those too.


If you don't believe me on those, I'll tear it open again and take a pic I guess. There's 5 I/O terminals/pins, 1 relay(coil/winding and armature + contacts), 1 capacitor/condensor, and 1 resistor.


Wiring and wiring diagrams are not my strong suit...obviously.

 

The COR relay is like a regular relay but it has 2 windings instead of 1 like a normal relay. Think of it as the electro-mechanical equivalent of a logical OR gate, in the if there is the STA signal from the ECU OR the Fc contact from the Air Flow Meter, the relay will be on and sending power to the fuel pump:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

Basically it is like 2 relays in one. The one side is set up to be driven from a logic signal from the ECU and thus is a little different internally and the other is set up to be driven by the closing of the Fc contact inside the AFM.

 

MudHippy, please, don't get me wrong... I really do appreciate the help you are trying to give.

Yes, there is a green capacitor in there which had its leads corroded off (the reason I brought it up in the first place). And as we've been over already, I don't believe it has much, if anything, to do with the problem. So enough talking in circles about something which most likely has nothing to do with it.
Why the VW issue? Any idea?

 

Now I get it as far as there actually being 2 coils/windings. But the windings aren't seperate. It's really only 1 winding doubled(or a double winding maybe?). I truly don't get wiring diagrams I guess. Because I'm not seeing how they are connected in the diagram. It looks like 2 circuits to me. But whatever, because that's not the way it really is. 2 unshielded wires/conductors wound together constitutes an electrical connection last I checked.





As far as that capacitor/condensor, it's directly inline with the resistor. Why, as in what for, and why not shown on the diagram? You tell me.

 

As noted below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

Those added components are likely there to soak up the electrical voltage spikes you inherently get with an inductor (i.e. the relay coil) when switching it on and off with a solid state circuit (i.e. the ECU).

 

Gotcha. Now I get that part, and the other even better too...I think. Basically, they aren't important enough details for acquiring an understanding of the designed function/layout of the circuit(s), to justify cluttering up the EWD with their presence. "So let's just pretend they aren't there", so to speak. Or to put it another way, "they aren't relevant to the EWD, so simply disregard them". "Them/they" being the capacitor, and the spliced connection of the 2 coils/windings, in this case. The resistor, or lack there of, was chosen as the distinguishing characteristic of the 2 coils/windings. And that's all you really need to know as far as the wiring of those 2 circuits in the COR are concerned. There's no need to show the capacitor in the one circuit on the EWD, since it's part of the same circuit as the resistor(which is shown plainly). And the fact that they're spliced, 2 coils/windings-in-1 in this instance, would be why you need to be able to tell one from the other in the first place.

See...I ain't so dumb. Just give me a chance...I'll catch-on quick(ish).
Gotcha(and your welcome). Except on what's causing the issue still. I'd check the VAFM and/or ECU, and I'll add, the corresponding wiring/connections. But I sorta said that already...so there I go talking in circles again...