Toe In Adjustment.
#1
Toe In Adjustment.
I have a toe in adjustment calling for 0-.08 of an inch positive, but I'm not sure how much that is. can anyone tell me ? is that like an eighth of an inch ? and what does it mean by "positive" ? I was a little confused by the term "positive" since I assumed "Toe In" meant the measurment taken at the front of the wheels would be lesser than at the rear of the wheels.As for the 0-.08 measurment, is this the same formula where .25 of an inch is equal to a 1/4 of an inch ? in which case .08 would be approx a 32nd of an inch.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#3
Technically, 0" toe in wouldn't be "positive" or "negative" it would be "no toe/zero toe". And any amount of toe in would be positive. To call toe in "positive" is a little misleading though. Then you think there must be "negative" toe in, and/or toe out. There's no such thing as a negative toe/toe out settings really. Meaning ALL toe settings regardless of the vehicle will be NO toe(tires same distance apart frontside and backside) or "positive" toe in(tires closer together on the frontside/further apart on the backside). "Negative" toe/toe out, or for that matter too much "positive" toe/toe in, will drastically hinder performance by causing excessive rolling resistence from the wheels.
Last edited by MudHippy; Nov 8, 2007 at 10:43 AM.
#4
You can have toe out (or negative toe in):
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
And likely do when the front wheels are turned sharply, due to the Ackerman angle built into the steering.
I set my own steering alignment, with something between 0" and 1/8" of toe in:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
And likely do when the front wheels are turned sharply, due to the Ackerman angle built into the steering.
I set my own steering alignment, with something between 0" and 1/8" of toe in:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment
#5
You can have toe out (or negative toe in):
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
I would stress, however, that "static toe out"/"negative toe" is not something that's recommended for rear-wheel-drive vehicles that see ANY street use. And is generally considered to be avoided at all costs. The front-wheel-drive vehicles that require a "static toe out" setting, do so to compensate for their tendency to cause toe in while under torque(driving). Allowing the correct setting when driven to be either without toe(0"), or slightly toe in/"positive toe".
Here's why.
Toe-out is when the front edges of the tires are farther apart than the rear edges. This may occur if the tie rod ends are worn, or if the control arm bushings have collapsed. Toe-out is a bad condition to have because it causes the tires to scrub as they roll along. Only 1/8th inch of toe-out will scrub the tires sideways 28 feet for every mile driven. At this rate, it doesn't take long to wear down the tread.
So in reality for most folks(some FWD excluded), "toe out/negative toe" isn't a parameter one should concern ones self with. Other than with its avoidance.
Last edited by MudHippy; Nov 8, 2007 at 12:54 PM.
#6
Good to know, as impractical as it may be.
I would stress, however, that "static toe out"/"negative toe" is not something that's recommended for rear-wheel-drive vehicles that see ANY street use. And is generally considered to be avoided at all costs. The front-wheel-drive vehicles that require a "static toe out" setting, do so to compensate for their tendency to cause toe in while under torque(driving). Allowing the correct setting when driven to be either without toe(0"), or slightly toe in/"positive toe".
Here's why.
from http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_alignment.htm
So in reality for most folks(some FWD excluded), "toe out/negative toe" isn't a parameter one should concern ones self with. Other than with its avoidance.
I would stress, however, that "static toe out"/"negative toe" is not something that's recommended for rear-wheel-drive vehicles that see ANY street use. And is generally considered to be avoided at all costs. The front-wheel-drive vehicles that require a "static toe out" setting, do so to compensate for their tendency to cause toe in while under torque(driving). Allowing the correct setting when driven to be either without toe(0"), or slightly toe in/"positive toe".
Here's why.
from http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_alignment.htm
So in reality for most folks(some FWD excluded), "toe out/negative toe" isn't a parameter one should concern ones self with. Other than with its avoidance.
For instance, it's often/almost always required when doing a SAS because that vast majority of those really pooch the Ackerman.
Setting a little toe out helps "create" some Ackerman.
Fred
#7
You can have toe out (or negative toe in):
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
And likely do when the front wheels are turned sharply, due to the Ackerman angle built into the steering.
I set my own steering alignment, with something between 0" and 1/8" of toe in:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment
http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/toe_hand.htm
And likely do when the front wheels are turned sharply, due to the Ackerman angle built into the steering.
I set my own steering alignment, with something between 0" and 1/8" of toe in:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Alignment
Mmmm, that's one way to set the toe.
Marking tires and using the mark is certainly a little easier and faster and yields high grade results.

Fred
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#8
I'd like to hear how you've come to that conclusion. The only rwd vehicles I've been able to find that Toyota does specify for any toe-out are Land Cruisers, and it's NOT required. Simply part of the acceptable range(0.04" toe-out to 0.04" toe-in for radial tires on 79-84 LC's). And it's by no means a common setting for any vehicle, regardless of make, to run any amount of toe-out. Who told you that it "isn't rare or unusaul at all"?
But hey, if you want to wear your tires like they're goin' out of style. Then be my guest, run 'em with all the toe-out you desire.
(Brilliant!
) Ackerman Smackerman, GOOD GRIEF!!! Like that's some CRUCIAL part of tire alignment, AS IF!!!! NEVER something that should be "adjusted" at the sake of correct toe-in settings, on a vehicle to be driven on the street at least, EVER!!!And NO, solid axle Toyota pickups/4Runners don't require toe-out either. Not according to Toyota anyway. Nor do any with IFS. Or maybe a SAS is different?(NOT!)
Toyota Specs for solid front axle toe-in:
79-82 Bias:0.16"-0.24" toe-in, Radial:0.04"-0.12" toe-in
83-85 Bias:0.12"-0.20" toe-in, Radial:0"-0.08" toe-in
Last edited by MudHippy; Nov 8, 2007 at 06:06 PM.
#9
Yes, I normally do that. Just slap a tape measure across the front and rear of the tires using the same point on the tread. Works fine, the linked page is when I first set up the alignment for the first time on a brand new axle. Since the wheels had not yet been mounted, I did it off the brake calipers. Makes the actual adjustment very easy as you can just dial it in right there.
#10
Thanks everyone for all the informative discussion and links, since this old beast has over 300.000 km on the clock I thought I would set the toe in on the fat side at 3/32nd". which I've been told is .09375". plenty tight enough considering the worn rack end I just replaced resulted in 1/2 to 3/4" of slack at the right front wheel.
The following measurments are from this same post made at another site and may be useful on this subject.
1/16" = 4/64" = .0625"
5/64" = .078125"
3/32" = 6/64" = .09375
The following measurments are from this same post made at another site and may be useful on this subject.
1/16" = 4/64" = .0625"
5/64" = .078125"
3/32" = 6/64" = .09375
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