Tire Help...
#1
Tire Help...
Hi there, I had a question about tire size and gear ratio (yes i did read the "read me first thread" on gearing) however I was having a lot of trouble with it and was hoping someone on here could answer my question:
I have a 94 Xtra cab pickup 4x4 22re, its got 33/12.5 tires on 15in rims with 4.88 gears in both diff's. it turns them fine at highway speeds. Its now time to get new tires,how much bigger of a tire can I run with my current 4.88 gearing?
please any info would be awesome thanks everyone.
I have a 94 Xtra cab pickup 4x4 22re, its got 33/12.5 tires on 15in rims with 4.88 gears in both diff's. it turns them fine at highway speeds. Its now time to get new tires,how much bigger of a tire can I run with my current 4.88 gearing?
please any info would be awesome thanks everyone.
#2
its 32s and 33s you can run 4:88s while if you go bigger to like 35s everyone on here usually reccomends 5:29's although i think there are some guys on here with 35s and 4:88s, IMO i would stick with 33 1250s. hope that helps
#3
33" tires are like the max tire size you can use with those gears. if you go any bigger with tire size you should get some 5.29's gears i think those are the next lowest gear ratio but there may be one in between.
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#9
the width kindof depends on your driving manner offroad too around me where i live in vermont all the trails are snowmobile trails and there narrow so you need narrow tires. usally for mud u want a narrow tire to get down to the bottom and get traction same for snow, unless u want to just float on top of the snow and mud. for sand your gonna want wide tires so you dont sink in the sand. and for rock crawling it all depends on what you want really like i perfer narrow tires all the way around. and ive seen 35" tires on a 89 yota p-up 4x4 with stock gears. and it ran horrible they redlined it just going over small oppsticles.
#10
I think youll be fine with 35s with 4.88s. Thats like running 32s with 4.10s and people do that all the time. Sure youll have a little power loss on the hills/highway. I say get the tire you want and try it for your self. If you dont like them, sell em and down size. And I wouldn't go any wider than 12.5.
#13
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
VARY GOOD POST ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
AT's start with different gears, so keeping them correct doesn't fall in the popular vote context... i.e 33's = 4:88's 35's = 5:29's
For AT's, I'd drop down one like clydehatchet says. Also 5:71's will live longer b/c of the WAY less shock AT's have on drive components...
And research 5:71's... They really aren't the debbel everyone makes them out to be. There are a few guys on here that run 5:71's, and they started breaking stuff at 38's
Make friends with your idler arm though...
Also, what kind of bottom usually helps the most when picking the width of the tire YOU NEED.
Wide tires are for flotation. Best in soft bottom, boggs, deep-soft mud etc.
Skinnies (hard bottom) focus more of the vehicles weight to the contact patch and IMO cut down on the breakage some. They are usually way lighter and I'd say with less of a contact patch to bight on obstacles, breaking traction would come before breaking an axle...
Just a thought though...
AT's start with different gears, so keeping them correct doesn't fall in the popular vote context... i.e 33's = 4:88's 35's = 5:29's
For AT's, I'd drop down one like clydehatchet says. Also 5:71's will live longer b/c of the WAY less shock AT's have on drive components...
And research 5:71's... They really aren't the debbel everyone makes them out to be. There are a few guys on here that run 5:71's, and they started breaking stuff at 38's
Make friends with your idler arm though... Also, what kind of bottom usually helps the most when picking the width of the tire YOU NEED.
Wide tires are for flotation. Best in soft bottom, boggs, deep-soft mud etc.
Skinnies (hard bottom) focus more of the vehicles weight to the contact patch and IMO cut down on the breakage some. They are usually way lighter and I'd say with less of a contact patch to bight on obstacles, breaking traction would come before breaking an axle...
Just a thought though...
Last edited by tried4x2signN; Aug 6, 2010 at 11:19 AM.
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