To replace the CV studs with M12-1.25x30mm grade 10.9 bolts, my plan of attack is:

1. loosen the six nuts connecting the CV to the front diff

2. with nuts on the end of the stud, and using a brass punch and 3lb sledge wail away on the nuts to pound out the studs.

I just want to confirm that its ok to pound out the studs with the CV's and front diff still in place, because all the threads I've read through give the impression that the differential had been removed.

thanks

 

I used a 6 or 8" c-clamp, a socket, and a cheater bar. Took me about 15 minutes or so per side. The ribs that hold the bolts into the flange are only about half an inch so you don't need to press them very far before they just pop out.

My problem was I couldn't see an easy way to get a punch in there and swing the hammer with any force (and I bet it'd take a bit to get them out).

Let us know what you do!

 

It took me a couple of minutes to visualize what you did. So basically 17mm (or larger) probably deep socket over the head of the stud, fixed end of clamp on the socket, screw end of clamp on the threaded side of stud, and cheater bar on the adjuster pin (not sure if thats the right word for it).

thanks for the suggestion, and i'll let you all know how it went this weekend

 

I wacked at it with a hammer ever so "gently" and they popped out (lucky I don't know??). I think I wedged some type of bar between the flange and the axle to take some of the pressure. I do like the C-clamp method but I didn't have one big enough..

Just so you know I was really nervous when doing this but it only took 2-3 hit's not very hard and they dislogdged easily after that. I ground down the splines on the bolt's after so that it'll be a piece of cake next time.

It's been a few thousand miles and no issues. Hell I even drove it for 5 days in front wheel drive while I fixed my rear u-joint (No rear drive shaft and in 4WD).

Chris

 

i still need to do this... I hate those studs. Anyone else think cv grease smells like a dairy... or a zoo?

 

I took the hard way, dropped the diff and drilled out the flange holes to 0.50" which allowed the studs to go in with just a teeny bit of pressure.

 

The first one I used a hammer and a LONG drift.

The second one I used the beam from the highlift.

Not much room to swing a hammer down there. Yes, it's OK to do it with the CV's in. I assume you're replacing them - not just replacing the studs "because".

 

this might go with out saying but... make sure you have a good clamp. i used some old clamps my dad had in the garage and they broke. haha those things are really in there and when i was tighting the clamp the body/frame of it broke into two pieces with a little force. just a heads up because you never know.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm still in the process of finding some bolts. The one industrial supply I went to this morning only had standard bolts/hardware (no metric stuff); it wasn't a total waste because I got the bolts I needed for my Sonoran Steel IFS truss.

tc, yeah i'm replacing the driver side joint, I tore a nice little gash in the inner boot last weekend. After contemplating replacing just the boot, researching what all was involved, and looking at the other boot (about to crack) I decided to just do the whole thing.

As for the clamps, my little brother works at sears in the lawn and garden section, so I'll probably be getting a craftsman one today or tomorrow.

 

I had to order mine from Fastenal. Get A BUNCH of them. The same size bolt is used for the brake calipers, the crossmembers, where the front diff attaches to the mounts, and a couple other places.

 

You don't need too big a C-clamp - I bought mine at Canadian Tire for about nine bucks.

 

More info here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...&highlight=ARB

 

I stopped by Fastenal this morning and picked up a 25 pack of M12-1.75x30mm grade 8.8 bolts, with matching nuts. Did any of you guys use washers? I grabbed two packs of 25 just in case.

 

I did not use washers and I reused the old nuts. I didn't want to put any more lopsided weight on an already fast rotating driveshaft. Maybe someone smarter than me will speak up to tell us if washers are good or bad.

 

Those will be fine for the CV's, but won't match the threads in the other items I listed. (Those are coarse thread, the factory ones are fine thread)

Note that 8.8 metric is the same as Grade 5 SAE (English). Once again, fine for this application, but not "universal". Great that they had them in stock though!

I didn't use washers. I don't think the original studs had washers...some blue loctite is probably not a bad idea.