yeswedeliver

89 Camry V6 auto no red light.
It idles fine, and I can rev the engine in park and just a slight hesitation. But when in drive under load, it cannot accelerate smoothly. If you don't have to go up a hill, you can slowly get the RPM's up high enough to go.

So here is what I have done.

- Looked for any cracked/broken vacuum lines.
- Removed the catalytic converter. Ran without the converter up the road, still had little acceleration. Checked for blockage, none. Put the converter back on.
- Changed the fuel filter.
- Changed the front 3 spark plugs, worn - large gap.
- Changed the front 3 plug wires.
- Changed the distributor cap. (contacts were corroded).
- Checked the Air Flow meter, readings seemed to be fine.
- Checked the Throttle Position Sensor, seemed fine. Changed it with a new one (frustration), it did not help.
- Removed vacuum line from the EGR value, did not see any difference.

Ordered a gasket so I can take the air intake off, to get to the back 3 plugs and wires.
NOW - I just tried it and it ran fine, until it warmed up (just a mile or 2).
Grateful, thank you in advance for your time and help

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

This is mainly a truck forum but lets try and help.

Did you do any work on the car and then it started acting up? Or was it just a slow progression over time? Also have you messed with anything that could be timing related, and checked to make sure timing is correct? What about the MAF and throttle body butterfly valve, not sure of you cars setup. Sometime they need cleaning and of can get partially blocked because of cleaning.

I really don't know toyota V6 motors well and don't know what V6 is in you car.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to guess this is a 3.slo engine. You need to get an FSM for the vehicle. You need to run some tests, one of which is a compression test to see if you popped a head gasket. Also it may just be time to do a valve adjustment since its so old the buckets are worn and valves are not closing tight or do not open enough. You need to give us a lot more information including your ability to run tests and how many tools you have.

Tools cost money, actually lots and lots of money. I have quite literally four roller tool chests. It may actually be cheaper to pay a mechanic to find your issue. Only you can decide whats possible and the path you take. The board collectively can only offer ideas, thoughts, history, etc.... From your description it sounds like an issue that occurs once the FI / ECU goes into closed loop and starts to use data from the O2 sensor.