MortonPhotographic

I just got my longblock back and am bolting stuff up. So far so good, but everytime I start on a new part, I come up with a new question. I have searched but I think some of these things are too generic to come up soooo...

1) What water pump do you prefer?

2) How about motor and transmission mounts, are they all created equal?

3) Belts?

4) Oil filter, fuel filter and air filter?

Or post anything else that you swear by!

THANKS!

MortonPhotographic

I guess I will start with something have learned along the way... I was going to use black RTV silicone. Some motorhead friends I trust said that would be fine. But my engine builder said use grey RTV... if you go by the packaging it does looke to be a little better than the black.

MortonPhotographic

Also, here is something I learned along the way--CHECK THE DATE! . I am refering to silicone, paint, or anything that drys/cures. It's 2010 as I write this and I have found silicone as old as 1999 on the shelf!!! I went to another autopoarts store and found the same stuff from 2004.

Since these items don't have expiration dates you have to check the copyright date which is usually near the manufacturer's address below the instructions and near the UPC code. Sure, manufacturers may not renew their copyright every year, but I will still look for the newest date possible.

MortonPhotographic

My mechinc-type friends all like Napa and Carquest.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

The best bet for parts are always going to be toyota oem. I have had good luck with engnbldr's stuff as well. Ngk or denso plugs. Toyota filters are fine. I can't stress this enough since i've recently learned a hard lesson. When rebuilding the 22re make darn sure your cooling system us up to par. Check things like t-stat, radiator cap and replace all hoses. Most of all make sure the fan clutch is in working order. Also don't skimp on the head gasket kit. Get a good one and you'll be happy you did. I'm going through the whole head gasket and head since mine blew out on me last weak. I used a sub par head gasket and my fan clutch was not functioning properly so as you can see the reward for my lack of functioning cooling parts was a blown head gasket. It only had 28,000 miles on it! Toyota uses a gasket maker they recommend and i would recommend it as well. Good luck hope it goes well for you.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I'm in the middle of re-installing my timing cover/water pump/oil pan after my coolant disappeared on the freeway one day last month...

I used the ENGNBLDR FEK when I did my timing chain in December. It's good bang for the buck and uses the Rock Auto water mump and timing cover.

Just be careful when doing the water pump - DO NOT TORQUE TO FSM'S "12 ft/lbs" - it will strip out your timing cover (ask my why I know). Use blue locktite and tighten just snug.

I also replaced my T stat and radiator cap while I'm in there, as I've heard faulty ones can both be harmful and cause overheating...My T stat was definitely original when I took it out last night

I use Kragen/Oreilly as my parts source/lube source, since it's so close and the guys are nice.

Anyone have a recommendation on what to use on the oil pan? Was going to use black or grey RTV and no gasket - does that sound right?

Morton - have any pics of your build up you can share?

MortonPhotographic

Thanks guys! So far I have a Rock gasket set and Rock timing chain cover. I just got of the phone to order a bunch of parts from Carquest. I didn't get any name brands I recognized but my mechanic buddies said they have good parts. Other than things like Aisin or parts marked Toyota, it's hard to tell what's what. For example I got an ASC water pump and Dikin clutch kit. Filters are from Wicks.

BTW, I use the Ultra Grey silicone because my engine builder says that is what he uses and the packaging says it exceeds import specs. That was enough posative info to keep me from using Ultra Black even though I think it would look better!

As for pics, I do have a boatload and I even have detailed pics of the engine going together at www.autospecengines.com. I am holding off posting all of them here as I am going to try and write up a tech article and get it in a 4-wheel magazine--I was a magazine editor for 10 years before gong freelance. Once that is all handled I will put a bunch of stuff here as well. I will post up a few in this thread soon.

MortonPhotographic

Kind of OT, but I scored today. I needed a new fuel line from the truck's hard line to the fuel filter on the block as well as a new power steering pulley. I found both today at my favorite Toyota parts junkyard here in AZ. Even though the pulley was over $120 at the auto parts store I got it for $15, and it is in great shape. The hose went for like $200 at the dealer, and I got it for $10--man am I stoked!

Even though it is not a new auto parts store in regard to this link, I dig this place. Check it out. http://www.toyotasalvage.com/index.htm

toyota4x4907

My head gasket change cost me about $230, including buying a new torque wrench. All OEM parts

celica5thstreet

I can testify that Amsoil makes some of the absolute finest oil and filter products available. I have used them in many vehicles taking 2 of them to well over 300,000 miles. That being said, the products are fairly expensive even when compared to leading synthetic brands (Mobil 1). And depending on the application, I'm not so sure the cost is justified.

For my 84 Celica, I just run the Advance brand 10W-40 and 20W-50 oils and change them every 3,000 to 5,000. The engine seems a little worn already and burns a quart every few thousand. I do swear by the Purolator PureOne line of oil filters. When I was using Amsoil, I generally used the Purolator filter in place of the $13 Amsoil one.

However, If I were starting a brand new engine rebuild, I would use the Amsoil filter bypass kit and run 2 filters. If I were 4 wheelin' I would even use an oil cooler, but that is if money were no object . . .

Check out this member's 03 Taco install:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...-tacoma-76369/