I've been an avid motorcyclist for 40 + years and have always maintained and repaired my bikes; however, not my 4Runner. Although I did do the clutch last year--only took me 3 days, but I'll be faster then next time.
My New Year's resolution is to become as proficient maintaining/repairing my '88 4Runner (22 RE) as I have been on my motorcycles.
Can someone give me a link to a detailed description of setting the timing and adjusting the valves?
Can't believe the valves are much different than on my bike, but to get TDC with my BMW GS I merely rotate the rear wheel while in 5th gear and look for a mark on the fly wheel. Doesn't seem practical for the 4Runner.
Thanks for any help.

 

Get yorself a repair manual and start learning your vehicle. I don't mean to come accross as rude but mechanics study for 4 years to become proficient...it is hard to sum up mechanical knowledge in a post on a PBB board.

Saying that, bikes are not a hell of alot differn't to cars/trucks...If you have good knowledge of a 4 stroke bike engine it shouldn't take you long at all to pick stuff up with cars/trucks. With an FSM or other type of repair manual (haynes etc) you will be right.

 

I just made that leap myself and did it the hard way getting a bare block and going from there. I just did a complete rebuild on a 22re with no manuals or help by choice , all the info I needed I got from right here on this site with the search button , not to sound like I am being a dick just facts so you understand that everything you seek can be found within this site if search.

That said here is the link to my rebuild you can read through and may find the answers you are looking for and it's all from a first time 22re builder with no previous experience with the motor.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...begins-185041/

If you need help ask I will share anything I have learned , As for finding TDC pull the first spark plug, shine a flash light down the hole look for the piston to be at full stroke and theres you TDC

From tdc set the first two intake valves then the first and third exhaust valves accordingly when facing the front of the motor. you set the valves by loosening the 12mm. lock nut and adjust the gap by turning the screw at the top of the rocker. Check the gap by sliding the appropriate feeler gauge between the tappet and the top of the spring. Once set rotate the crank 360 deg. Then set the third and fourth intake and the second and fourth exhaust valves accordingly. Remember set the intake valves to .007 and the exhaust valves to .009. This is according to ted from engblr. for the rv 268 cam. The fsm requires for a stock cam, to be set at .008 intake and .012 exhaust. The fsm also requires the motor to be hot when setting the valve lash.

Hope this helps

 

Olharleyman,
Thanks for the response. I've bookmarked your rebuild thread. I had purchased all the parts for replacing the timing chain, just need it to warm up a tad before attempting. I may have a question down the road. If it goes like the clutch I may be on my motorcycle for a few days.
Sounds like the Toyota valves are no different than those in my BMW 1150 GS, although I set those cold. One quick question--what's the easiest way to turn the crank to position different pistons at TDC?

 

Big Ass 1/2 breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt it should turn a little easier if you pop the plugs out just remember that the wires from the cap should be labeled 1-4 so you get them back in correct order when your done.

On the cap they look like this

top 2 are 1 & 3
bottom 2 are 2 & 4

on the block it's 1,2,3,4 so that part will be easy

When you get to the timing chain and need help if it's not in my rebuild pm me and I will do the best I can to help ya out.

 

Has your timing chain been changed in the last 100K?

I jsut did mine a couple weeks back and it took a long time (with a friend), but we did it correctly and learned a lot. It's supposed to be done every 100K miles - a good thing to do if you don't know when it was last done, since a snapped one means busted valves and a headache....plus you learn a lot!

You can get a great kit (chain kit, water pump, oil pump, all gaskets) from ENGNBLDR on ebay for $150 - best deal out there and the parts seem to be good quality - even includes a news timing cover!

Here are some good DIY guides (I studied these 2 for a LONG time and made notes before my job):

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Get a Chilton manual - I've gotten a lot of use out of mine over the years.

For finding TDC, use a 22mm socket on the crank bolt and rotate with the spark plugs out for least resistance. there is a notch on the crank pulley that lines up with the "0" mark on the timing cover (see links I posted above for photos and reference to this). Use a long screw driver in the #1 spark plug hole when the marks line up - if you touch the top of the piston soon, you're at TDC, if it goes down a long way, you're not and need to rotate the crank another 360 degrees.

the valve adjustment was covered in an earlier post above so I'll skip that.

Good luck - I've learned so much doing it slow and asking questions - and I have SO much more to learn (after my timing chain job, we tried to install the LCE header and stripped out an exhaust manifold stud and snapped another bolt's head on the manifold - and that was supposed to be the EASY job!!!!!

Good luck and have fun!

 

Thanks for the advice Phil. Actually I have all the parts to do my timing chain. I got most from Partsgeek.com as they sell a lot of OEM gear for significantly less then Toyota. I have begun reading all the great posts on doing a timing chain replacement. My original chain jumped and destroyed the valves at 165,000 miles. Currently I've got 155,000 on the replacement and do not yet hear a rattle. My plan is to do it as soon as the weather warms a bit (currently highs in the low 20's). I have to admit I'm both excited and nervous as it looks to be a little more complex than the clutch.
Couple of questions:
1. Did you remove the head? I'm not inclined to do this since the head gasket was replaced at 165,000 miles
2. Did you remove your oil pan? Form what I've read, removal of the oil pan is not necessary, but advisable if you have parts of the plastic rails broken off. Apparently to remove the oil pan one must drop the front axle??

 

I did not remove the head since mine didn't show signs of leaks - but as the DIY's I linked to say, be very cautious so that you don't tear the gasket when removing the cover.

I did remove the oil pan just because - and I had some oil leaks I wanted to address down there. I have a 4 inch lift so I didn't need to drop the axle (I think it's the differential you need to drop if riding at stock height). even with the extra room, getting the pan off/on is a PITA - especially when you have some fresh FIPG on the pan and a short window of opportunity!

My oil pan was free of debris, but it's a good idea to check while you're in there.