Marlin clutch??
01-26-2014, 12:58 PM
#41
To pull those do I just tap them with a slid hammer and yank them out? Is it fairly easy job. Probably just the freeze plug? The cam and valve train look fantastic. Almost appear new. I assume they did crank rods and pistons as well. Before I pulled It the motor did have good compression. Guess its time to look up freeze plugs.
01-26-2014, 01:12 PM
#43
Ok fairly confident I can do the freeze plugs. From what I have read use brass replacement ones. Not some people say use black permatex some say liquid pipe dope and some people just kept their secrets to themselves. I should probably flush the motor while I am at it. Any secrets to that step. I think to remove them I am going with the screw driver and pry method. And can I flush with a hose or should I just use DI water. All help is appreciated.
Ps thanks Jason for all the quick responses.
Ps thanks Jason for all the quick responses.
01-26-2014, 01:20 PM
#44
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I can't comment on the brass or other metals. Ones I have done were just hammer them in the block, no leaks from that. I'd clean what you could when you get the plugs out but remember if there is a big chunk of build up that gets knocked loose it could block flow to the passages on the head. Wait till you get it running and all then flush it really good.
01-27-2014, 01:38 AM
#46
Registered User
Should just be a 40mm freeze plug. If it was on the intake side, I'd say stick a block heater in there n call her good. Even if you never really need it, they kick butt.
01-27-2014, 06:59 AM
#48
Registered User
Not sure if I'm too late. If you didn't get it done..........Always resurface the flywheel and save machine shop receipt. If you don't and have problems, you will not get any warranty. Check Marlins site for the flywheel step specs. Stock will be fine if you can't find it.
To get the pilot bearing out, I usually fill the cavity with grease and use a 1/4" drive socket that fits the hole tight. Stick an extension on the socket and smack it with a hammer. Pops it right out.
I wouldn't worry about the rear main seal if only a few miles on it if it's not leaking. Looks like you need to do the trans input seal though. Where's the oil coming from?
Make sure when using the clutch alignment tool to hold the disc up and centered while tightening the pressure plate bolts. Otherwise it droops down a bit and is off center just enough to make getting the trans lined up a bear.
Buy two bolts the same size but longer than the trans mounting bolts to make some guide bolts.
Cut the heads off and round over the ends. You can grind a couple flat spots on the sides for a wrench or cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver. That way you can get them out easier if they get stuck.
Centering the clutch disc and using guide bolts make the job WAY easier.
To get the pilot bearing out, I usually fill the cavity with grease and use a 1/4" drive socket that fits the hole tight. Stick an extension on the socket and smack it with a hammer. Pops it right out.
I wouldn't worry about the rear main seal if only a few miles on it if it's not leaking. Looks like you need to do the trans input seal though. Where's the oil coming from?
Make sure when using the clutch alignment tool to hold the disc up and centered while tightening the pressure plate bolts. Otherwise it droops down a bit and is off center just enough to make getting the trans lined up a bear.
Buy two bolts the same size but longer than the trans mounting bolts to make some guide bolts.
Cut the heads off and round over the ends. You can grind a couple flat spots on the sides for a wrench or cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver. That way you can get them out easier if they get stuck.
Centering the clutch disc and using guide bolts make the job WAY easier.
01-27-2014, 07:04 AM
#49
Registered User
Sorry about the late post. My computer let me post after a WAY earlier post and then refreshed and stuck it on page three. I didn't even have a page three when I logged in.
Last edited by aztoyman; 01-27-2014 at 07:08 AM.
01-27-2014, 07:07 AM
#50
Registered User
For freeze plugs I usually whack them with a chisel and spin it in the bore. Then grab it with vice grips and yank them out.
You can easily flush out the block with the plugs out. Pull the little drain valve on the driver side too. It's probably plugged up.
Most of the crud that settles in the block is easy to flush out with the plugs out. You will see it.
You can easily flush out the block with the plugs out. Pull the little drain valve on the driver side too. It's probably plugged up.
Most of the crud that settles in the block is easy to flush out with the plugs out. You will see it.
01-27-2014, 06:03 PM
#52
Well I couldn't find any brass freeze plugs. I will check napa tomorrow. But either way I should have my old motor pulled out tomorrow. Still have to get my flywheel ground as well. Probably drop that off tomorrow morning while checking napa for freeze plugs. I just wish I could finish this up. I miss driving my Toyota.
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01-28-2014, 07:55 AM
#58
Flywheel question. I bought my clutch for a 93 22re. Which is a 9 5/16 flywheel. My parts truck motor is a 8 7/8 flywheel. Can I just use the parts truck motor and put my 9 5/16 flywheel on the older motor? Should I just call marlin and ask them?
