If the rear main seal was replaced 40k ago it should be fine. For the pilot bearing you need a pilot bearing puller lol. There are some ways to remove it with a bolt and grease or a wet paper towel. I tried saving money on my swap by not replacing the seals and all. Had to pull the trans within a week because of leaks. The one time I didn't replace those seals(they were not leaking before) they leaked after a motor swap.

 

Damn you luck sounds like mine. Haha. Can I use a parts store seal or should I buy from Toyota or engnbldr? Guess I will price a pilot bearing puller. Rent one if I have too.

 

I just bought a parts house one. Didn't feel like waiting 2 weeks for the dealer and paying twice the amount. Search for tricks removing the pilot bearing with a bolt and grease, I haven't done it but many people remove it that way.

 

Thanks for the replies. I for an article on marlins site where marlin does not recommend replacing a no leaking seal so I think I am going to roll the dice on it a hope it holds. And I was reading on the grease trick with a bolt or doweling. That sounds like it will do the trick and drive the new one in when its frozen. Also found a machine shop that might be open tomorrow. Lets see if the stars align. I will post more pics and updates tomorrow. Thanks again for the help. YOTATECH rocks!!!!

 

Personally, there is very little chance that I would not carefully replace the rear main seal housing gasket, rear main seal, and pilot bearing when I had them visible. Even if I replaced them 10K miles prior. That's just to cheap to not take care of.

And you mentioned the budget and timeframe were tight, but shutting the truck down for a day or two is going eat up more time and money later if/when these hidden parts give issues... And you mentioned having $hy++y luck like I do....

 

Ok I have read about packing grease behind the pilot bearing then taking a bolt or piece of wood to use hydraulic pressure I think to force it out??? Does that sound right? Also how much of a mess am I creating if I am not touching the rear main seal. Just not sure dont want to make this anymore of a clean up than I have to. I might just rent or buy a pilot bearing puller. Any input is greatly appreciated.

If the rear main lets go you can say I told you so. Haha

 

Use wet newspaper. Shred it, pretty fine, then put in a bowl with water. Then pack it in with the rod you're gonna whack it with. Way less splatter with the wet paper. And easier cleanup, easier to stuff more in, and you just scoop it out with a screwdriver and dry it off.

 

Thanks combatcarl. That does sound cleaner. I as actually at this point leaning towards just buying a pilot bearing puller. But if I can't ind one I will use the newspaper method for sure.

 

Use the paper. Its free and works every time.

 

And I don't have to pull the rear main to get it clean right?

 

To get what clean?

 

The wet newspaper that I pack to pop the pilot bearing out.

 

The pilot bearing is in the end of the crankshaft, the rear main goes around the end of the crankshaft.

 

So do I need to pull the rear main to clean the wet newspaper out?

 

No your overthinking it. Have you even looked at it yet? It's really simple

 

Ok I probably am over thinking it. But I have never seen behind the rear main. So if I understand correctly I pack wet newspaper through the pilot bearing hole and then use a wooden dowel to cause hydraulic presume that will drive the bearing out. My question is can I clean all the wet newspaper out after it is done with out pulling the rear main. Please simplify it for me if I am over thinking it. Thanks

 

Yes. Don't use a wooden dowel. Use the large end of a 3/8" extension instead, it's just the right size.

The pilot bearing is in the center of the crank. The main seal goes around the outer circumference of the crank. They have nothing to do with each other. After you pop out the pilot bearing just dig out the paper towel with a small screwdriver.

I do it this way every time and it works perfectly with no mess. You will love the Marlin clutch...

I also recommend replacing the input shaft seal on the trans and the rear main seal. It's just cheap insurance and you don't want to have to do it again. ..

 

Thanks. I usually over complicate things. I am nervous about getting a ream main leak if I replace it. Don't know why but just am. I have never done a clutch before. Just figured I would do it since I was doing a motor swap and my old clutch has 200k on it. My donor truck motor and clutch had 40k on it. But I have heard such good thing about the marlin clutch that I had to put it in. On my old 85 I did a dual friction centerforce. But at the time I had a tranny guy that installed it for a 1/2 rack and a large pizza. This time I figured I would do it my self and go with a marlin clutch. Just sure how far I want to tear in to this thing. Know what I mean. Is all the stuff you suggested easy to access with the motor pulled? I have also heard a lot of people have problems after replacing rear main seals. I have never been a great mechanic just usually good enough to get it done with enough time. Thanks for all the help to everyone.

 

Ok I am going to hijack my own thread. Ha. I dragged the donor motor out to give it a good cleaning. The whole front of it was covered in oil. Could have been from the half moon gaskets. I know the back one was leaking. So that probably is nothing to worry about. But when I looked at the drivers side there was rust in a place where I didn't think there should be rust. Right above the dipstick. I took a small flathead and most of it flakes away to what you see in the pic. But it was covered.


What do you all think.

 

It looks like the freeze plug is/was leaking. Might as well replace them as well. It sucks spending money on all the little stuff now, but it's a lot easier than constantly working on things after it's running.