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Manual to auto help

Old 04-16-2019, 02:58 PM
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Manual to auto help

Believe me it's not by choice. I've searched and searched and I've really only been able to come up with information on manual to Auto swaps which for wiring seems to be pretty straightforward. I'm working on a 1991 4Runner 4 wheel drive with automatic transmission that I got for dirt cheap off a friend who's somehow mutilated the Dash and engine harnesses. He then tried to put in a harness from a 95 and soon realized that he was in over his head with plug changes color changes Etc. I live just outside Little Rock Arkansas and it's almost impossible to find any second gens in boneyards, Craigslist and even eBay. About a week ago I came across a 1990 that the only difference was it was a manual on Craigslist and got the dash engine and cowell harnesses including fuse boxes and relay box for about 50 bucks. The first time that I came across was that that the ecu's we're completely different and not backwards compatible. Even after I mapped everything out to try and make it any proof for myself I came to find out that the pins for the manual are larger than the autos. I took everything from the auto harness that didn't have anything to do with the transmission and remove the pins and continue to re crimp and move everything pin by pin over to the auto harness. I came across two problems, first was for a wire for water temp and the second was a green wire with white tracer that according to every diagram I've seen was in pin number one of the road 12 pin, I think it was 12 it's whatever the medium size one was, there should not have been anything.
After all this I still have a no start problem, iwired the clutch cancel switch in the dash to the neutral safety switch just so I have to only press a button instead of bringing something up to hold the clutch switch without having a clutch pedal. It cranks and I make sure to double and triple check to make sure that I had everything correct going to my ACF and TPS correct as well as my distributor. It almost wants to start it almost sounds like whenever you're out of gas and tries to detonate with such low fuel pressure then it kind of tumbles. After trying to start it a dozen times or so there's a pop out of the exhaust, I say it sounds like a pop but it's honestly louder than my .45 ACP. I've also double check that I'm getting spark from the igniter to the distributor and I've also tried hot wiring my fuel pump and I'm able to clearly. Cycling back through the fuel return. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm not usually one to ask questions on forums but this one's got me stumped and being in the middle of BFE and being relatively new to the state I don't know anybody local able able to help. Thanks in advance
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:40 PM
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Bump

Anyone have any advice for a noob? Im desperate for a possible point in the right direction. I have a FSM (it's for a 95, minimal changes but nothing I can't seem to figure out).

BTW, I have cleaned and checked grounds under the Ignitor and the back of the head (as well as most others but these seem to pertain to the problems I'm having).

I understand that if I went through every bit of electrical and fuel in the FSM Id probably come across the problem, I'm just hoping for a point in the right direction.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CerealBisque View Post
Anyone have any advice for a noob? Im desperate for a possible point in the right direction. I have a FSM (it's for a 95, minimal changes but nothing I can't seem to figure out).

BTW, I have cleaned and checked grounds under the Ignitor and the back of the head (as well as most others but these seem to pertain to the problems I'm having).

I understand that if I went through every bit of electrical and fuel in the FSM Id probably come across the problem, I'm just hoping for a point in the right direction.
Your 95 FSM is useless for a pre 95, the 22re was discontinued after 94.. Actually I don't see a reference to which engine you have, anyone willing to walk you thru this is going to need to know this tiny bit(very important) information.

Have to electrically traced and labeled all the engine harness wires? If you fed the wrong sensor output to the wrong ECU input there is no telling what the ECU is going to try to do to compensate.

You're also trying to run an automatic (ECT, electronic controlled transmission), on presumably a manual harness. This is a problem because the ECT computer needs data from the speed sensor and shift indicator. From what I recall (my data sheets aren't available), the computer is going to assume you're in a driving gear, and not moving, if it's not getting any of these inputs.

Pay the daily access fee for alldata and get both wiring diagrams.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:32 PM
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Edit

I knew I was forgetting something, I tried to make it as detailed as possible without digression. The motor is a 91 3vze and the donor harness is the 90 3vze. I've double checked to the best of my ability all pins, while triple and quadruple checking the E1, VC, E2, VS, THA, VTA, IDL, G-, G1, G2, and NE.

What plug and pin # is the speed sensor at the transmission end?

Thank you

Another thing I forgot to mention, I believe I have the distributor pinned right, I went by pin # and not by color cause it changes from solid yellow on the harness to black on the pigtail.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:46 PM
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I had no idea you could pay a daily access fee for alldata. That should help out immensely
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:32 PM
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Update

Still no start with cel codes 24, 31 and 41. My first guess was that I had a bad ground on the back of the head but that checked out to be good. I also double checked everything I had to add to make the auto trans work; spd1, spd2, p, w, n, 2 and the rest needed for the AT.

I'm desperate to get this truck running, it was meant to be my daily driver but quickly turned into my daily headache and I'm now almost at a complete loss. If I can't get it running by the end of the day Im forced to scrap it
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