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Ya beat me to it. I'd start with re-sealing the third member to the housing. Might as well replace the studs with bolts while you have it out...just need (10) M8x1.25 bolts and a tap to chase the threads. Also make sure the breather isn't clogged. I did a half-decent write-up on most of this recently:

 

reseal with what? what do you mean when you say "tap to chase the threads" do i just hand tighten or torque them? why would you replace with bolts? because the studs are old? i ask alot of questions...i just want to understand everything

 

Black RTV...silicone gasket maker.

A tap is what cuts the threads...threading a tap into existing threads just cleans them up.

The studs have a tendency to pull out over time. When you thread a bolt from inside the housing, the bolt head prevents it from ever pulling out.

Check out that link I posted above.

 

awesome pics..thanks so much. i will refer to those when i start.

 

Considering the whole 3rd is coated in oil, I'd say the pinion could be leaking.

Don't worry about changing the studs out with bolts.

 

It wouldn't hurt to replace the pinion seal and replace the studs would it?or would I just be makibg extra work for myself?

 

when jacking the rear end of my truck....does it matter where i place the jacks on the axle?

 

I usually just roll a floor jack under the center and lift it up until the tires just clear the ground. Then slide jack stands in on either side. I have a u-bolt flip so put the stands under the springs, in between the two u-bolts.

 

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...0331-00582.jpg

is this okay? i have never lifted the rear end before...only changed tires so i don't want to do it wrong!!! i saw pics like this online

 

That is basically what I do. Makes little difference where the stands go, the wider the better (more stability). If you have the stock inverted u-bolts, it is kind of hard to put the stands under the springs since the wonky u-bolt plate is there. Just make sure the top of the stands won't interfere with anything like brake lines.

 

it doesnt look like it will. im just replacing the seal on the differential so i probably don't need it lifted more than that? do i have to remove the tires to do that?

 

Again photos of where the leak is or a better description of what "seal" you are replacing would help. If the pinion seal where the driveshaft bolts up, then no jacks are needed. If you are pulling the 3rd member to reseal around the flange, then yes, you'll need the jacks and stands and remove the wheels and pull out the axles ~4" on each side. Why? You need to pull the axle shafts far enough out of the differential to allow it to be removed. 4 nuts hold each side in place, disconnect e-brake cable and unscrew/cap the brake hard lines to each side. Then slide the axle shaft out, taking care not to damage the inner axle seal, so support the axle as it comes out instead of dragging it over the seal.

 

i posted pics yesterday of the leak. its coming from the housing...so i picked up some rtv

 

Yes, recall those, but it was not real clear where the leak was from. "Seal" normally refers to the pinion seal or the axle seals out at the ends of the axle, like where a rotating or sliding shaft passes through a seal to keep oil in or contamination out. The 3rd member flange is more of a gasket (if you use the factory paper gasket) or some RTV (or FIPG Form In Place Gasket) to make a gasket.

 

the shop told me it was the carrier seal that had the leak...

 

is the fill tube on the top left? what is the other one for?

 

sorry its not rotated...wouldnt let me change it

 

saw this hanging there...whats it for?

 

Looks like the factory exhaust/muffler hanger.

Vent/breather on the right side and from your other photo, looks like the brake hard line/tee. You might make sure the breather is not clogged, if so, it can let pressure build up in the axle and force gear oil out. Fill hole is the 24mm bolt on the back side of the axle housing.