Ideas on IFS
#3
Early IFS ('86-'95), or later IFS ('96-present)? If early, leave it pretty much stock. Run some ball joint spacers for a little bit of lift (search yotatech for TONS of info on BJ spacers). If later IFS, go with a 2"-3" spacer or coilover.
Whether early or late IFS, DO NOT buy one of the big 4"-6" IFS lifts if you ever really want to take your rig off road. If you're just looking to fit big tires however, I guess those lifts get the job done.
Since you're in VA, check out his site, too: http://wwww.midatlantictoyotacrawlers.com/
Whether early or late IFS, DO NOT buy one of the big 4"-6" IFS lifts if you ever really want to take your rig off road. If you're just looking to fit big tires however, I guess those lifts get the job done.
Since you're in VA, check out his site, too: http://wwww.midatlantictoyotacrawlers.com/
#5
Damn dude. I have 37" tires and about 4.5" of lift (SAS with 3" springs, drop spring hanger, etc. and no body lift) and I'm trying to figure out how to make mine lower...

Looks like you have 33"s on it? Just stick some 35"s or 37"s on there.

Looks like you have 33"s on it? Just stick some 35"s or 37"s on there.
#6
read this thread and search you'll start to figure it out. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...mation-121264/
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#9
... It's a good start.
#13
definitely good candidate..
ditch the rear bumper, get some good rubber, wheel it.
after the inferior suspension takes a poo (just a matter of time) then look at sas as an option. it all really depends on how hard/much you use it.
ditch the rear bumper, get some good rubber, wheel it.
after the inferior suspension takes a poo (just a matter of time) then look at sas as an option. it all really depends on how hard/much you use it.
#15
It's not cheap, but take a look at some of the products that Total Chaos sells, I have their Toyota 4WD 86-95 Caddy Uni ball on mine, with sway away torsion bars and sway away race runner shocks. My truck drives great off/on road. Very stable and very satisfied with this suspension. My drive train is all in the stock location, just had to get longer drive axles. My truck wheel base is wider now, it feels very stable at high speeds, it drives like a high speed off road race truck, and I have lots of travel. I wish I had gone with the generation 2 caddy kit and eliminated my torsion bars, but oh well, it's done and is over built for what I do, which is mainly driving around on ranch property and taking camping trips.
I am not a fan of body lifts at all, they don't add any performance, just clearance for larger tires and they usually don't look great.
I'm not a big fan of just jacking the suspension up with brackets, this is just like a body lift for the suspension, mostly just adding clearance for larger tires, not extending wheel travel or improving articulation.
With a solid axle swap, you can achieve lots of articulation and you will have a lot stronger front end, that can take a lot of slow speed high torque driving like rock crawling.
It all depends what you want to do with it, and how much money you have to trough at it.
I am not a fan of body lifts at all, they don't add any performance, just clearance for larger tires and they usually don't look great.
I'm not a big fan of just jacking the suspension up with brackets, this is just like a body lift for the suspension, mostly just adding clearance for larger tires, not extending wheel travel or improving articulation.
With a solid axle swap, you can achieve lots of articulation and you will have a lot stronger front end, that can take a lot of slow speed high torque driving like rock crawling.
It all depends what you want to do with it, and how much money you have to trough at it.
#16
#18
The ifs will have idler arm failures, tie rod failures, ball joint failures, an occassional CV failure, and the occassional passenger side inner axle failure.
With my old 4runner on IFS I went through 3 steering idler arms, 4 sets of ball joints, 3 sets of tie rods, 2 CV axles, and 4 passenger side inner axle shafts. I finally blew out the ring and pinion, 3 ball joints, and 2 tie rods and decided that was enough so i parted it out and got a landcruiser... if I would have kept it, I would have went SAS.
If you do lift an IFS (which I dont think makes a whole lot of sense if you're really going to wheel it), go with a bracket lift. BJ spacers are a cheap lift (which is why they are common), however they tend to eat CV shafts at an alarming rate. I have two friends who run them and in 3 wheeling trips they both have destroyed more CV shafts than I did in 4 years of wheeling with a bracket lift. Now I should also disclaim that they are still fairly new to wheeling, and that did contribute to blowing CV shaft.
With my old 4runner on IFS I went through 3 steering idler arms, 4 sets of ball joints, 3 sets of tie rods, 2 CV axles, and 4 passenger side inner axle shafts. I finally blew out the ring and pinion, 3 ball joints, and 2 tie rods and decided that was enough so i parted it out and got a landcruiser... if I would have kept it, I would have went SAS.
If you do lift an IFS (which I dont think makes a whole lot of sense if you're really going to wheel it), go with a bracket lift. BJ spacers are a cheap lift (which is why they are common), however they tend to eat CV shafts at an alarming rate. I have two friends who run them and in 3 wheeling trips they both have destroyed more CV shafts than I did in 4 years of wheeling with a bracket lift. Now I should also disclaim that they are still fairly new to wheeling, and that did contribute to blowing CV shaft.







