Ideas on IFS
 

Im looking to either raise it or swap any ideas on what the better to do :bah:

welcome to the forum, lets see some pic of teh ride! im sure searching will net you everything you need!

Early IFS ('86-'95), or later IFS ('96-present)? If early, leave it pretty much stock. Run some ball joint spacers for a little bit of lift (search yotatech for TONS of info on BJ spacers). If later IFS, go with a 2"-3" spacer or coilover.

Whether early or late IFS, DO NOT buy one of the big 4"-6" IFS lifts if you ever really want to take your rig off road. If you're just looking to fit big tires however, I guess those lifts get the job done.

Since you're in VA, check out his site, too: http://wwww.midatlantictoyotacrawlers.com/

Haha thanks you guys, but its early IFS an '89 but the kid that had it before me built some of it up 6in suspension with a 3in body but its still a baby truck and i wanna build it uphttps://www.yotatech.com/members/mal...st-zoo-012.jpg

Damn dude. I have 37" tires and about 4.5" of lift (SAS with 3" springs, drop spring hanger, etc. and no body lift) and I'm trying to figure out how to make mine lower...

http://pics.montypics.com/beatertoyo..._doors_010.jpg

Looks like you have 33"s on it? Just stick some 35"s or 37"s on there.

read this thread and search you'll start to figure it out. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...mation-121264/

the less you tamper with that ifs, the longer it will last offraod, until its time to just get rid of it.

Beatr, how do you like your SAS, how does it feel but i really like your yota. What year i like how you cut the doors

I disagree.

Looks like a 4" drop bracket lift w/the torsion bars cranked and it's hard to tell in the pick but your springs look flat so I assume you got blocks back there? I'm not a big fan of 3" body lifts :barf:... It's a good start.

At Big pile blue the torsion bars have been cranked but me have no blocks ive learned there good for my axles, https://www.yotatech.com/members/mal...nsion-lift.jpg

i dont see any diff drop, the shocks in front look like stockers , the torsion bars are just cranked to the max. could have an add-a-leaf.

Norfolk huh? Where you plan on wheelin that thing? OBX or the Appalacians?

definitely good candidate..

ditch the rear bumper, get some good rubber, wheel it.

after the inferior suspension takes a poo (just a matter of time) then look at sas as an option. it all really depends on how hard/much you use it.

When you can afford it, a solid axle swap is a big improvement over the stock IFS set up. I have 63'' 5'' lift springs in the back and 5'' lift trail gear springs in front.


http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/z...4Runner019.jpg

It's not cheap, but take a look at some of the products that Total Chaos sells, I have their Toyota 4WD 86-95 Caddy Uni ball on mine, with sway away torsion bars and sway away race runner shocks. My truck drives great off/on road. Very stable and very satisfied with this suspension. My drive train is all in the stock location, just had to get longer drive axles. My truck wheel base is wider now, it feels very stable at high speeds, it drives like a high speed off road race truck, and I have lots of travel. I wish I had gone with the generation 2 caddy kit and eliminated my torsion bars, but oh well, it's done and is over built for what I do, which is mainly driving around on ranch property and taking camping trips.

I am not a fan of body lifts at all, they don't add any performance, just clearance for larger tires and they usually don't look great.

I'm not a big fan of just jacking the suspension up with brackets, this is just like a body lift for the suspension, mostly just adding clearance for larger tires, not extending wheel travel or improving articulation.

With a solid axle swap, you can achieve lots of articulation and you will have a lot stronger front end, that can take a lot of slow speed high torque driving like rock crawling.

It all depends what you want to do with it, and how much money you have to trough at it.

Right now ive been just been taking it off road up in franklin, ive been wanting to go to Hatteras

How do i know when the IFS goes poo, i should start saving up eventually it will be a build up

The ifs will have idler arm failures, tie rod failures, ball joint failures, an occassional CV failure, and the occassional passenger side inner axle failure.

With my old 4runner on IFS I went through 3 steering idler arms, 4 sets of ball joints, 3 sets of tie rods, 2 CV axles, and 4 passenger side inner axle shafts. I finally blew out the ring and pinion, 3 ball joints, and 2 tie rods and decided that was enough so i parted it out and got a landcruiser... if I would have kept it, I would have went SAS.

If you do lift an IFS (which I dont think makes a whole lot of sense if you're really going to wheel it), go with a bracket lift. BJ spacers are a cheap lift (which is why they are common), however they tend to eat CV shafts at an alarming rate. I have two friends who run them and in 3 wheeling trips they both have destroyed more CV shafts than I did in 4 years of wheeling with a bracket lift. Now I should also disclaim that they are still fairly new to wheeling, and that did contribute to blowing CV shaft.

Thank you for letting me know, ill watch out for that within in the next year. But right now ive got to take of a oil leak so SAS is being pushed back

You can cure most of the weak points in your IFS, depends on what you want to get out of it