Alright, I managed to remove the 4wd shifter completely by putting in neutral and removing the bolts. The shifter for the tranny doesn't seem to work the same way... I have all 4 bolts removed and the thing moves around but doesn't want to come out? Any suggestions? It would be one less thing I would have to work around when lifting the cab off...

The rear window I also need out and would like to save the weather stripping as its new and reuse able. Any suggestions on removing it with out destorying the weather stripping?

gas tank bolts keep breaking. 2 out of 6 I see down. I have used plenty of pb blaster and no success. Also tried "freeze off" and brake fluid. I was told to use a torch but I am afraid to even thought the gas tank has been drained. any other ideas? I just hate using a tap and die set against gravity...

also due to the condition of the frame and floor of this truck I was told the body may have sagged to one side of the other. I just use a level on it when I have it off the frame and on the ground?

 

I still can't figure out how the back window is installed haha. It kinda pushes out from the inside but I am afraid to crush the glass. The weather stripping does not have to be kept, but I would like to keep the glass in one piece. haha. I know theres a tool or something for windshields but I don't own it. I took my windshield out with a pipe wrench, a broom and a shovel. hahaha. I rather not waste the money and but just for the back window...

I am awaiting another Chilton manual. My good copy one went MIA and my other one is missing a lot of pages and is in poor shape (It was a "great" deal on ebay). Its Really not to useful.... Thats why I asking these questions... Nothing to refer too. : (

I am trying navel jelly on the gas tank bolts. One side at a time! Going to let it sit over night and apply some more. Going to keep a good watch on it. : ) It should work!

Dry Ice is has worked fantastic on the plastic floor liner. I just want to say thank you again. I just need to tilt the cab up so i can get to what still left.


Thanks again!!

 

did you get the tranny shifter out, if not you need to pull the rubber boot up and push down on the dome shaped piece of metal and turn it counter clock wise a bit, make sure you push really hard, i suggest using some channel locks to push and turn.

 

what year and what truck

The early W56 trans has a circlip typ retainer
The later W56 has the push/turn thing

 

MY G54 tranny has the push down and turn thing on the tranny shifter

t case has a clip thats a pain to get in

but u dont need to remove the covers to get the shifters out, the shifters come out of the covers =)

 

It is a 1981 4x4 Pickup. I wont have a chance to try your suggestions for the shifter today but tommarow I will get on it first thing. How can I find out which tranny I have? I know about this truck so I dont know if it was replaced at any point. Also interested in knowing what my 4 speed in my 82 is. That was a junkyard pull that I lucked out with.

With the floor out I started to clean up the rust with navel jelly. I have a good bit of rust as most of you could relate too, but I have gone threw 6 bottles of this stuff, (4 paint on, 2 spray on) and have not got anywhere... On one large patch under where the battery was I left it on for a week, adding more daily.... Its turned a bit white/ yellow but the majority is still rusty. I sprayed it with primer and 3 days later its rusted threw about 6 coats of primer...I am just trying to prep it for winter so I can get to body work in the spring after I am back on my feet. Any suggestions?

 

Just sand it down the best you could (bare metal) and spray some self etching primer on the metal. I wouldn't waste too much time and money if you are repairing it in the spring.
The only real way to remove rust is to cut the rusted panel out, including about 1.5 to 2.0 inches beyond the rust to make sure to get it all.

 

3 Problems Down:

RUST:
Cutting out the metal 1.75" - 2.0" past the rust is what I am used to doing with other restores. I am trying to sort out the other alternatives I was informed about. I may have misunderstood or been mislead.

Due to the lack of replacement panels, I am also trying to save the time consuming labor of forming/making replacement panels. I would love to get a hold of a rust free 1rst gen 4x4 and make some molds with it. I imagine that is everyones dream, but that can be something to look into in time to come. getting this one up and going is priority at the moment.

TRANS SHIFTER:
The shifter came out pulling the boot up and pushing it down and turning counter clockwise. It was very, very simple. To be completely honest it required no force at all. Pushed it down with a pair of Plyers and moved it counter clockwise with a flathead screwdriver wedged in the outer gap of the dome piece. A half of an inch turn was all it took.

Thank you very, very much for everyones help with that and everything else.

REAR WINDOW:
I had a guy I met threw a sale on craigslist walk me threw how to remove the rear window without damaging anything. It took a screw driver to push against the inner window and a wood rulers to push against the weatherstripping. Pushing it in. It was very simple. Sure beats removing a window on a hatch back.

 

Floor liner came out with ease using dry ice (thanks guys). Now I am trying to eliminate the hard plastic in the seems where panels meet one another. screw driver and hammer is taking a lot of time and creating inperfections. Dry ice did not work.

Rust is in these seems and looks to be where some of the rust originated from. Finding rust in every seem i uncover.

Any ideas on what to use to aid in removing this stuff?

 

bioyota,

You may be able to use a dry ice blaster. They provide a lot of power when cleaning with dry ice. If there are edges where the dry ice can get under, it may be able to blast up with plastic. . Good luck.